Enticer 250 heated grip and thumb

E

elee33

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I have a 1980 enticer 250 and looking to add heated grips and thumb warmer. I have added led headlight bulb and tail light to reduce the load on the machines electrical. I purchased rsi universal grip heaters and a kimpex universal thumb warmer. The thumb warmer has an inline resistor for high but the grips do not have a visible one and I cannot find online if they have an internal one or if I need to put one in line. Also there is no info on what size of a resistor to put in all instructions are based on oem installs with factory heat. I am looking for insight on this install if anyone can help that would be great.

Thanks
 
From my understanding the resistor would slow flow of current through the wiring and therefore produce more heat no?
 
heat output is a function of watts which is voltage times current. Adding a resistor reduces the amount of current allowed to flow which means the the effective wattage of the heater element goes down.

Think of electricity like a water pipe, voltage is the water pressure in the pipe, current is the volume of water flowing through the pipe. Put a restriction on the end of the pipe, the pressure doesn't change but the flow does, that is what a resistor is. It resists the flow of electricity. To make more heat you pull more current, less heat is less current.
 
elee; How did you make out? Where did you tie in for power?
I have a 79 Enticer 340 that I've been thinking about installing heated grips on.

TJ
 
Hey TJ, I tied in to the spare wire on the heat light harness I get some warmth but with some more tweaking I think it will be worth while just make sure to insulate your bars
 
1981 Enticer 250

Hello. Did anyone get heated hand warmers to work? I keep blowing the voltage regulator. I pulled power from the lights. Screenshot 2023-03-14 144454 for forum.png

I've tried led bulbs, but they dont last; the minute I reinstall an OEM bulb, the voltage regulator fails.


image of tie in.png
 
You could try putting a power resistor in series with the grips. It would lower the heat amount, but might make it work. Just electronics principles. I have no personal experience trying this. You could meter the grips for resistance and try a few different resistor values in the same range as the grips ohms. You may want to use an inline fuse with a lower value than the regulator's output so you go through fuses not regulators when experimenting. Back in the day I know people put heated grips on 340 Enticers successfully. I wouldn't think they would have that much more power than the 250s
 
Led's require DC volts and a 250 is AC.
The 250's barely have enough amps to run their lights I'm not sure it will power heated grips.
I think you would have to have a small battery, and then wire similar to how the mid eighties Yamahas were.
The sled could try to keep the battery charged while running.
The battery could be plugged into a trickle charge to top up when not in use.
In addition, if you had a battery, the Led light would then work.
 
You could conceivably add a grip warmer coil to the 250’s stator, similar to 1984+ machines. There should be room on top of the source coil.

The lighting coil is going to really struggle to do both lighting and a resistive heat load.

Not sure what’s up with that wiring, but if you are popping voltage regs, there might be a short somewhere.
 
74Nitro said:
Led's require DC volts and a 250 is AC.
The 250's barely have enough amps to run their lights I'm not sure it will power heated grips.
I think you would have to have a small battery, and then wire similar to how the mid eighties Yamahas were.
The sled could try to keep the battery charged while running.
The battery could be plugged into a trickle charge to top up when not in use.
In addition, if you had a battery, the Led light would then work.
Click to expand...
 
i tryed the LED headlight and low power heated grips.. didnt work.so have original bulb back in and have rechargable heated gloves.on low setting for 6 hrs. thats long enough on this 71 yr old back on a 47 yr old sled.. newer hood and seat ,everything else factory..motor never been apart.bought it in 83 with hood destryed,, we ride it for first 7 yrs with no hood.. was stored inside for 23 yrs.. friemnd rebuilt the seat and son foiund a newer hood he repainted and decaled. wife wont ride anymore and i cant move my 600 lb 2 up Polaris..so started riding the old ET again.
 

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Oleyamirider said:
i tryed the LED headlight and low power heated grips.. didnt work.so have original bulb back in and have rechargable heated gloves.on low setting for 6 hrs. thats long enough on this 71 yr old back on a 47 yr old sled.. newer hood and seat ,everything else factory..motor never been apart.bought it in 83 with hood destryed,, we ride it for first 7 yrs with no hood.. was stored inside for 23 yrs.. friemnd rebuilt the seat and son foiund a newer hood he repainted and decaled. wife wont ride anymore and i cant move my 600 lb 2 up Polaris..so started riding the old ET again.
Click to expand...
The problem is that without a dedicated grip heater coil on the stator the lighting coil produces barely enough power to run the 60/55W hi/lo beam headlight and other bulbs. If you are riding daytime only the headlight serves as a daytime running light. One solution would be to use a lower wattage headlight bulb to free up some power for the grips. Not recommended for nighttime driving though. You can find 35/35W H4 bulbs on Amazon like the one in the pic.
 

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Just learned this with my '78 ET250 and my '83 ET300. LEDs can be AC, DC, or AC/DC. The ET's without electric start systems need AC or AC/DC LED bulbs...... non-polar. They can be found on Amazon and eBay.
 
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