mmordan
Member
Hey guys, so my old man handed me down a 97 v-max that hadn’t been ridden in years. I cleaned the carbs and had to replace the coil and wires due to an intermittent miss it had. That seems fine, however I can’t get the sled over 60mph or 6000 Rpm... I had the primary off and cleaned it up, put it back on and marked the sheaves. The belt isn’t even making it up to almost 2 inches from the top. Should I be looking at my secondary or replacing springs? Clutch black magic isn’t my strong suit.
i would start with a new primary spring as you do not know how long it has been since it was replaced.
bought a new sled once that was nos and sat for 3 seasons before i bought it fully assembled. 3 years after i bought it i was chasing a bog in the powder. ended up being the primary spring was weak. almost ready to do the spring again after 15 years on current one. starting to act the same again.
bought a new sled once that was nos and sat for 3 seasons before i bought it fully assembled. 3 years after i bought it i was chasing a bog in the powder. ended up being the primary spring was weak. almost ready to do the spring again after 15 years on current one. starting to act the same again.
mmordan
Member
Thanks I’ll give that a shot
mmordan
Member
This is the spring that was in it...
mmordan
Member
Quick google is showing this as a replacement is this correct? 
mmordan
Member
1997 Vmax 600 xtc stock
Use a stock Yamaha spring!
It takes a W/S/W short cover spring
90501-555J9-00
It takes a W/S/W short cover spring
90501-555J9-00
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stock calls for white-silver-white. if it has been clutched, you need to identify the spring that is in it and get a new one the same. that one looks like a w-s-w from the pic. oe spring is only $20.00 canadian and i get screwed on pricing for parts usually.
Take some pics of the rollers and weights. Whats the total mileage of the sled?
Assuming the engine is running correct, clutching is the problem. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the spring.
Also, check the front motor mount rubbers and also where the engine mount bracket bolts to the crankcase.
The sled should rev 7800-8100 when under full throttle.
Assuming the engine is running correct, clutching is the problem. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the spring.
Also, check the front motor mount rubbers and also where the engine mount bracket bolts to the crankcase.
The sled should rev 7800-8100 when under full throttle.
mmordan
Member
Thanks I’ll grab the OEM
mmordan
Member
5400 miles. The engine runs hard but hits a wall at 6k and around 60mph plus the belt isn’t making it up almost 2 inches to the top of the primary... see pics of rollers and weights. Just disassembled and cleaned everything. I had the reeds out they looked good. Carbs are clean... starts with 1 pull... I assume clutching.
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mmordan
Member
Having trouble posting pics all of a sudden... I’ll try more later
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
At only 6000 Rs your clutchs shouldn't be at full shift out.
Does the choke help alleviate the issue while your at 6000?
Does the choke help alleviate the issue while your at 6000?
They appear good in the pics. The rollers should be tight on the pins and the weights should have no bumps or grooving where they run against the rollers. Check all three.
How are the front motor mounts? Check that no engine mount bolts are broken. What is the part number on the helix?
How are the front motor mounts? Check that no engine mount bolts are broken. What is the part number on the helix?
mmordan
Member
No snow to try... probably going to build a wooden stand to run it on... I just use a 4x4 now to get off the ground.
mmordan
Member
Weighs have some slight bumps along the top sides... nothing major but I can feel... they all are about the same... you can kind of see in the pic I was able to post (where the darker lines are near the base of the weight).
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mmordan
Member
the bumps are not good. means the po rode it at a low speed a lot and made the weights hammer to make the notches like that. they should be smooth all the way along the weight. guys have put notches in them like that for drag racing to make it hook up quicker off of the line. i have a set of 40-10 heel clickers that some one notched for drag racing. had to rev them to the sky before they would engage to move the sled.
you can fix those weights if you want to put the effort in. guys have used a sander barrel for wood working and bolted all 3 weights together in 2 places so they all got the same profile when you sand the groves out on the sander.
sled calls for an 8cr weight stock at 38 grams with an added 8 g of weight in rivits. now might be a good time to clutch the old girl with a set up from the tec pages user set ups. i personally would go with an aftermarket weight that is close in weight to the set up you like as it is easyer to adjust the weight as they use screws and washers to do the same thing as the rivits.
you can fix those weights if you want to put the effort in. guys have used a sander barrel for wood working and bolted all 3 weights together in 2 places so they all got the same profile when you sand the groves out on the sander.
sled calls for an 8cr weight stock at 38 grams with an added 8 g of weight in rivits. now might be a good time to clutch the old girl with a set up from the tec pages user set ups. i personally would go with an aftermarket weight that is close in weight to the set up you like as it is easyer to adjust the weight as they use screws and washers to do the same thing as the rivits.
Hey Maim. I'd say those weights look fine and are not modified in any way. Not the problem.
Agreed, not his main problem, but if there are bumps in them, they will affect the shift, and possibly engagement.