Need to figure out my 02 SRX 700 hard starting!

yamisrx said:
I got carb and choke spray to shoot through the choke jets and followed that with a little compressed air. I do have torch tip cleaners but I didn't run those through, just did that on the jets. I'll do that next time I have the carbs out or drill them out a little like you mentioned. Any idea on what size would be a good start?
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I don't know what size. You would use the drill bits to figure out the size, then go a few numbers higher.
If I remember correctly, the 1998 SRX had larger choke jets than the 99's and up. The only way to obtain a set of those would be from a used set of 1998 carbs.
 

yamisrx said:
Well heres what I'm at but still taking way too many pulls to fire.

130 psi compression on all cylinders
Carbs are completely clean with 45 pilots and fuel screws at 1 3/4 turns out.
Floats are set right at factory spec roughly 14.3 mm
Choke cable is adjusted maxed on full choke lever
Excellent spark on all three cylinders
Fresh rebuilt vmax sx fuel pump and good fuel lines with a fuel shut off valve
New yamaha oem reeds that all seal good and no daylight visible through them

I had the sled running this last Friday afternoon and shut the fuel valve off afterwards. It sat over the weekend and Sunday afternoon I gave it a try to see if anything I did helped. I got it to start after about 15 pulls after sitting for roughly 2 days.
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If you've had it running for a few minutes, will it immediately die if you turn the choke on?
 
74Nitro said:
If you've had it running for a few minutes, will it immediately die if you turn the choke on?
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I have only tried that I think once or twice but it was decently warm and yes it wanted to keep running. The last time I flipped the choke on and it ran on for a bit so I flipped it off and then back on and it did eventually die. When it’s been rode for a while and I do that at the end of the day for better starting the next day it’s a bit quicker to kill but it does take a few seconds or more.
 
yamisrx said:
I have only tried that I think once or twice but it was decently warm and yes it wanted to keep running. The last time I flipped the choke on and it ran on for a bit so I flipped it off and then back on and it did eventually die. When it’s been rode for a while and I do that at the end of the day for better starting the next day it’s a bit quicker to kill but it does take a few seconds or more.
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If the engine is at operating temperature or close to it it should kill instantly when the choke is flipped on.
That's telling me the choke jets I previously mentioned are blocked or partially blocked.
 
74Nitro said:
If the engine is at operating temperature or close to it it should kill instantly when the choke is flipped on.
That's telling me the choke jets I previously mentioned are blocked or partially blocked.
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I can try chasing a torch tip cleaner through them when I take them off again. I was able to blow through all of them and they all seemed about the same for resistance. I stuck the carb cleaner can straw in them and sprayed and I got fluid to come through and out the other holes. If it's likely partially plugged though I'll gladly try it. I would love to get this thing to start like it's supposed to.
 
yamisrx said:
I can try chasing a torch tip cleaner through them when I take them off again. I was able to blow through all of them and they all seemed about the same for resistance. I stuck the carb cleaner can straw in them and sprayed and I got fluid to come through and out the other holes. If it's likely partially plugged though I'll gladly try it. I would love to get this thing to start like it's supposed to.
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Make sure all the passage in that jet circuit are clean in the carb body.
 
yamisrx said:
I can try chasing a torch tip cleaner through them when I take them off again. I was able to blow through all of them and they all seemed about the same for resistance. I stuck the carb cleaner can straw in them and sprayed and I got fluid to come through and out the other holes. If it's likely partially plugged though I'll gladly try it. I would love to get this thing to start like it's supposed to.
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This isn't where the choke plunger is. Just to be sure, I'm talking about the round brass piece that is right beside the pilot jet that is only removable with pliers or vice grips as they are pressed into the carb body.
 
74Nitro said:
This isn't where the choke plunger is. Just to be sure, I'm talking about the round brass piece that is right beside the pilot jet that is only removable with pliers or vice grips as they are pressed into the carb body.
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I think he’s talking about the pilots.
 
74Nitro said:
This isn't where the choke plunger is. Just to be sure, I'm talking about the round brass piece that is right beside the pilot jet that is only removable with pliers or vice grips as they are pressed into the carb body.
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Right I’m on the same page. Long brass tube with tiny hole that reaches down into the bowl. I haven’t removed it but I put my mouth to it and made sure I could blow through each of them. I also sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air through them. They are definitely open to some degree but maybe partially blocked like you said.
 
MrSled said:
I think he’s talking about the pilots.
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I’ve had pilots and main jets out. They are clean and I even went up from a 42.5 to a 45 pilot. I ran 01 main jet specs last season that are a touch richer than the 00 or 02 jets. I went back to the stock 02 jets this season because plugs just looked a bit dark or richer. I heard some guys run the richer jetting to avoid the dcs from tripping but I’m not sure I would have a problem with that. I always run good ethanol free premium.
 
yamisrx said:
Right I’m on the same page. Long brass tube with tiny hole that reaches down into the bowl. I haven’t removed it but I put my mouth to it and made sure I could blow through each of them. I also sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air through them. They are definitely open to some degree but maybe partially blocked like you said.
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Ok, yes we're on the same page. Run torch tip cleaners through them.
If that still doesn't work, then we're still missing something as it should only take 2-5 pulls.
 
74Nitro said:
Ok, yes we're on the same page. Run torch tip cleaners through them.
If that still doesn't work, then we're still missing something as it should only take 2-5 pulls.
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I took carbs apart again and made sure everything was clean again along with running torch tips cleaners through the choke tube. I used several sizes and maybe even enlarged the hole slightly as I kept running the largest one through many times. I put everything back together and got the sled running. I waited 7 days and gave it a try. The sled started in 5 pulls with full choke on. Not 2-3 pulls like would be nice but 5 pulls is a huge improvement over 40-50. I'll let it sit longer and see what I get.
 
yamisrx said:
I took carbs apart again and made sure everything was clean again along with running torch tips cleaners through the choke tube. I used several sizes and maybe even enlarged the hole slightly as I kept running the largest one through many times. I put everything back together and got the sled running. I waited 7 days and gave it a try. The sled started in 5 pulls with full choke on. Not 2-3 pulls like would be nice but 5 pulls is a huge improvement over 40-50. I'll let it sit longer and see what I get.
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Sounds like a good start!!
 
The original 1998 carbs had a bigger press-in choke jet than 99's and up. I was working at a dealer then and many 98's had plug fouling issues upon start-up so Yamaha had sent us smaller choke jets which then became standard equipment on later models if I remember correctly.
A set of choke jets from a 98 model would help, but probably easier to buy the very fine increment drill bits and go up slightly.
Glad to hear it's improved.
 
74Nitro said:
The original 1998 carbs had a bigger press-in choke jet than 99's and up. I was working at a dealer then and many 98's had plug fouling issues upon start-up so Yamaha had sent us smaller choke jets which then became standard equipment on later models if I remember correctly.
A set of choke jets from a 98 model would help, but probably easier to buy the very fine increment drill bits and go up slightly.
Glad to hear it's improved.
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I'll see if I can't find some fine bits. I have an uncle that had a new 98 600 and he kept talking about it fouling plugs and being so rich when he first got it. He was a Yamaha tech at the time and mentioned having to make some carb changes to fix it. I may give this a little time here and if five pulls is the best it dose I'll try opening that choke jet up.
 
yamisrx said:
I'll see if I can't find some fine bits. I have an uncle that had a new 98 600 and he kept talking about it fouling plugs and being so rich when he first got it. He was a Yamaha tech at the time and mentioned having to make some carb changes to fix it. I may give this a little time here and if five pulls is the best it dose I'll try opening that choke jet up.
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I know of a couple 1998 srx600 and 700's still, and they still have plug fouling issues to some extent to this day.
The 2000 and up had a much improved ignition that greatly reduced plug fouling.
 
yamisrx said:
I've made it my goal to get my 02 SRX 700 to be a better starter before winter this season. The problem is if it sits for a few days or more it takes 40-50 pulls to start. It also does similar if its extra cold out. I've been through and cleaned the carbs, added new oem yamaha reeds, went to a 45 pilot jet from the stock 42.5, and turned fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out. I've checked compression and all three cylinders are at 130 psi. I've added a new vmax sx fuel pump to eliminate the vent on the stock pump and also a petcock valve in between the tank and pump. None of this has helped. Once the snowmobile has started and it's warmed up it starts first pull every time. If I put a little premix gas down the cylinders it starts first pull but who wants to do that constantly? I have also done the choke off untill it dies method and if it's within a few days it will start first pull also. Anything I'm missing? If there is nothing else I'm thinking of adding a primer to it.

Thanks
Greg
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Had the same problem like many others with the 600/700 triple. Installed a fuel shut off and a primer on my 99 600 triple. Starts first pull.
yamisrx said:
I've made it my goal to get my 02 SRX 700 to be a better starter before winter this season. The problem is if it sits for a few days or more it takes 40-50 pulls to start. It also does similar if its extra cold out. I've been through and cleaned the carbs, added new oem yamaha reeds, went to a 45 pilot jet from the stock 42.5, and turned fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out. I've checked compression and all three cylinders are at 130 psi. I've added a new vmax sx fuel pump to eliminate the vent on the stock pump and also a petcock valve in between the tank and pump. None of this has helped. Once the snowmobile has started and it's warmed up it starts first pull every time. If I put a little premix gas down the cylinders it starts first pull but who wants to do that constantly? I have also done the choke off untill it dies method and if it's within a few days it will start first pull also. Anything I'm missing? If there is nothing else I'm thinking of adding a primer to it.

Thanks
Greg
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My solution to the problem. Starts first pull.
 
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