Yiotta
New member
Hey all,
I found this thread but as often happens the resolution was never provided.
https://totallyamaha.net/threads/108940/
I'm new to a Viper with 5300 miles on the clock. Previous owner put in v-force reeds, had some clutch work done and synced the exhaust valves with the battery/custom wire harness method and he drained the carb bowls at the end of the season. That's all I know about the machine. I've had it since 2021 but for many reasons I've put very little mileage on it. Just ripped around our 5 acre property a bit. It's always been very hard to start as it sits for months, then weeks at a time before I'm able to get to camp to start it... but I always was able to pull the crap out of it (like 40 times) to get it to fire then it was good for the weekend. But last weekend it would not start after 70 pulls.
So off comes the rack of carbs. They have never been off the machine as far as I know but looked surprisingly clean. Pilot jets had a little gunk but a good soak in carb cleaner then blast of compressed air and they look good as new. I did the main, needle and air mixture too, blew all passages with carb cleaner followed by compressed air (at low pressure) and all went very well.
After I finished cleaning the carbs I looked at the fuel lines. It is a 23 year old machine so I figure I should replace all the fuel lines (and maybe the oil line now as well if it isn't very complicated). Luckily the Viper came with the workshop manual but not the experience with this sled so I am unsure of how to proceed. My Mityvac was tested for vacuum and passed so I hooked it up like the manual says, to the vacuum/pulse line. Note: I was doing this work with the sled still in the trailer so lighting sucked. I wanted to pull all the fuel lines to test them for leaks but have not done that yet. Anyways, I use a new hunk of clear polypropylene fuel line I got from Partzilla as you see below but could not get any fuel out of the 3 carb lines.
So, I removed the fuel inlet hose and was able to easily draw fuel from the fuel tank so that is good.
So, I left questioning what to try next. I'm not able to get back to the machine for a couple weeks so I have my homework cut out for me.
Options I am already considering:
1. I already put the carbs back in the sled along with the airbox with only the chock adjuster that needs to be fitted. I now know that I can cheat...errr, be intelligent, and pull all 3 plugs, squirt some premix into each cylinder and fire her up...hopefully... and after a couple of those I may be surprised that the machine runs great until it sits for a few weeks...then I just follow that procedure again.. And just consider the job done for the season and next year replace the fuel lines...and pulse...and oil. That is of course if my fuel pump and pulse line are functioning properly.
A. If I do this is it common practice for Totallyamaha vets to use clear/translucent fuel line (like I commonly do) so I can see whether I have fuel in them or not? Or is it recommended, and not ridiculously more expensive, to use the black factory hoses (I really don't want to if there is no real benefit).
2. Pull the carb rack back off, replace all the fuel lines and spring clips now (as long as I know what seasoned sledders use on these triples for hose types)...then replace the in-tank fuel filter while I'm at it then reinstall and test. My gut says this is the way to go so I know what has been done to this sled.
3. Do #2 and get a $25 rebuild kit (diaphragm and gasket kit) off that guy on ebay as it is the only place I've found a rebuild kit. I cant see spending $150 for a new one or risking a used one.
That's where I'm at guys. Looking for guidance and some great detailed information that can hopefully make it into the FAQ area as I looked and found great carb info but surprisingly nothing on troubleshooting fuel delivery issues.
PS... I got my first trailer wheelie due to me needing to lock up and leave for home and not knowing where the key is to the tractor so I could weight the tongue with the bucket. I had changed the coolant in the MXZ 670 and had no choice to to gas it and the trailer tongue touched down. Need to get my own key or another way to weigh down the tongue... it doesn't take much...I could pull it down manually...a bit anyways.
That is all for now... hope all enjoy their weekend festivities.
I found this thread but as often happens the resolution was never provided.
https://totallyamaha.net/threads/108940/
I'm new to a Viper with 5300 miles on the clock. Previous owner put in v-force reeds, had some clutch work done and synced the exhaust valves with the battery/custom wire harness method and he drained the carb bowls at the end of the season. That's all I know about the machine. I've had it since 2021 but for many reasons I've put very little mileage on it. Just ripped around our 5 acre property a bit. It's always been very hard to start as it sits for months, then weeks at a time before I'm able to get to camp to start it... but I always was able to pull the crap out of it (like 40 times) to get it to fire then it was good for the weekend. But last weekend it would not start after 70 pulls.
So off comes the rack of carbs. They have never been off the machine as far as I know but looked surprisingly clean. Pilot jets had a little gunk but a good soak in carb cleaner then blast of compressed air and they look good as new. I did the main, needle and air mixture too, blew all passages with carb cleaner followed by compressed air (at low pressure) and all went very well.
After I finished cleaning the carbs I looked at the fuel lines. It is a 23 year old machine so I figure I should replace all the fuel lines (and maybe the oil line now as well if it isn't very complicated). Luckily the Viper came with the workshop manual but not the experience with this sled so I am unsure of how to proceed. My Mityvac was tested for vacuum and passed so I hooked it up like the manual says, to the vacuum/pulse line. Note: I was doing this work with the sled still in the trailer so lighting sucked. I wanted to pull all the fuel lines to test them for leaks but have not done that yet. Anyways, I use a new hunk of clear polypropylene fuel line I got from Partzilla as you see below but could not get any fuel out of the 3 carb lines.
So, I removed the fuel inlet hose and was able to easily draw fuel from the fuel tank so that is good.
So, I left questioning what to try next. I'm not able to get back to the machine for a couple weeks so I have my homework cut out for me.
Options I am already considering:
1. I already put the carbs back in the sled along with the airbox with only the chock adjuster that needs to be fitted. I now know that I can cheat...errr, be intelligent, and pull all 3 plugs, squirt some premix into each cylinder and fire her up...hopefully... and after a couple of those I may be surprised that the machine runs great until it sits for a few weeks...then I just follow that procedure again.. And just consider the job done for the season and next year replace the fuel lines...and pulse...and oil. That is of course if my fuel pump and pulse line are functioning properly.
A. If I do this is it common practice for Totallyamaha vets to use clear/translucent fuel line (like I commonly do) so I can see whether I have fuel in them or not? Or is it recommended, and not ridiculously more expensive, to use the black factory hoses (I really don't want to if there is no real benefit).
2. Pull the carb rack back off, replace all the fuel lines and spring clips now (as long as I know what seasoned sledders use on these triples for hose types)...then replace the in-tank fuel filter while I'm at it then reinstall and test. My gut says this is the way to go so I know what has been done to this sled.
3. Do #2 and get a $25 rebuild kit (diaphragm and gasket kit) off that guy on ebay as it is the only place I've found a rebuild kit. I cant see spending $150 for a new one or risking a used one.
That's where I'm at guys. Looking for guidance and some great detailed information that can hopefully make it into the FAQ area as I looked and found great carb info but surprisingly nothing on troubleshooting fuel delivery issues.
PS... I got my first trailer wheelie due to me needing to lock up and leave for home and not knowing where the key is to the tractor so I could weight the tongue with the bucket. I had changed the coolant in the MXZ 670 and had no choice to to gas it and the trailer tongue touched down. Need to get my own key or another way to weigh down the tongue... it doesn't take much...I could pull it down manually...a bit anyways.
That is all for now... hope all enjoy their weekend festivities.
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This is normal practice if it sits for a few weeks.
premix down cylinders if it has sat for longer than a month is normal on a pull start only sled. before i put the estart on betsy, this was standard procedure.