Goach2
New member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2025
- Messages
- 5
Hello all, new member here who's also new to sleds. My son was gifted a '92 Venture GT (480) which we were told runs but needs restoration in the track components as it has sat for a number of years. I've rebuilt a couple different vehicles, but never owned a sled. Can anyone point me to some posts/threads/articles featuring rebuilds of something comparable? At this point, I don't even know how to start it, although I should be able to start with pulling the carbs and figuring out how to get them cleaned up. Thanks!
welcome!
those sleds had both eletric and pull start. the e start, you twist the key like a car when it has good battery and starter. the pull start is the d shaped handle on the right side of the sled and it works along the same principals as a pull start lawn mower.
any of the enticer/phazer rebuild threads would be a good place to start.
here are my reccomendations/list.
1- replace fuel filter in tank and clean the carbs. the filters can rust apart and then you are chasing it for debris going into a carb jet. been fighting one for 5 years with this issue as i started it before i checked the filter and it had sat for over 20 years before i started running it.
2- replace pulse line to fuel pump as they deterioate over time. you can use black rubber automotive gas hose for it. pulse line can cause issues with the sled only running on gas down cyls or quick start. look over the other lines for splitting as well and replace as needed.
3- remove or disassemble both clutches and scrub down with sos pad and soapy water. when they sit they corrode up and start sticking. all rollers and bushings need to slide/turn freely with out being loose. you check that by making them move without the springs in the clutch. i do reccomend a new primary spring as they get weak as they get older. here in canada they are usually under $20.00.
4- skis/steering. make sure everything moves freely and if it still has stock steel skis, make sure they are not rotted out. check the wear bars/runners/carbides on the bottom of the ski as the sled will not turn well if they are worn out. i do have a post on here on how i retrofitted 2014 sr viper skis on to betsy, my 1997 et410, that has the same front suspension as the sled you are working on if your skis are worn out/rotten. lots of other skis will fit as well.
5- track. you need to pull out the rear suspension to replace the track. make sure to back off the track tension before removing. the track specs for that sled factory was 2.52" pitch x 15" wide x 121" legnth with a .75" lug. you should be able to fit up to a 1.25" lug track into it without issues as that is what i have in betsy and it clears quite well. betsy and that model venture share the same chain case and drive shaft with factory reverse. once rear suspension is out, you need to pull the bearing on the left side of the tunnel to get the drive axle out of the sled. while bearing is off, i would use a pick to remove the seal and clean out the old grease. if it spins good, re pack with fresh grease and re install seal. then reassemble sled. with reverse, you do not have to take apart the chain case to remove the shaft as it is in a splined socket on that side.
6- rear suspension. while it is out, i would check the wheels for the rubber delaminating. then go through all the wheels and check/repack the bearings in the wheels as i described for the drive axle bearing. the bearings are replaceable in the stock style wheels on this sled if they are full of rust. then check all the pivot shafts in suspension move/rotate freely. next is to replace/check the slide plastics. usually when replacing the track, i put new ones on as they are usually around $20.00 canadian for the pair of cheap ones. once together, replace chain case oil (80w90 dino or synthetic is good) and adjust chain case chain tension as well as the track tension.
there are more little tricks but i think i covered most of it. main thing is to get the engine running 1st and making sure the crank seals and the fan is working correctly before tackling the rest as motor and track are 2 of the most expensive things on a sled to repair/replace.
sounding like a fun project for you both.
those sleds had both eletric and pull start. the e start, you twist the key like a car when it has good battery and starter. the pull start is the d shaped handle on the right side of the sled and it works along the same principals as a pull start lawn mower.
any of the enticer/phazer rebuild threads would be a good place to start.
here are my reccomendations/list.
1- replace fuel filter in tank and clean the carbs. the filters can rust apart and then you are chasing it for debris going into a carb jet. been fighting one for 5 years with this issue as i started it before i checked the filter and it had sat for over 20 years before i started running it.
2- replace pulse line to fuel pump as they deterioate over time. you can use black rubber automotive gas hose for it. pulse line can cause issues with the sled only running on gas down cyls or quick start. look over the other lines for splitting as well and replace as needed.
3- remove or disassemble both clutches and scrub down with sos pad and soapy water. when they sit they corrode up and start sticking. all rollers and bushings need to slide/turn freely with out being loose. you check that by making them move without the springs in the clutch. i do reccomend a new primary spring as they get weak as they get older. here in canada they are usually under $20.00.
4- skis/steering. make sure everything moves freely and if it still has stock steel skis, make sure they are not rotted out. check the wear bars/runners/carbides on the bottom of the ski as the sled will not turn well if they are worn out. i do have a post on here on how i retrofitted 2014 sr viper skis on to betsy, my 1997 et410, that has the same front suspension as the sled you are working on if your skis are worn out/rotten. lots of other skis will fit as well.
5- track. you need to pull out the rear suspension to replace the track. make sure to back off the track tension before removing. the track specs for that sled factory was 2.52" pitch x 15" wide x 121" legnth with a .75" lug. you should be able to fit up to a 1.25" lug track into it without issues as that is what i have in betsy and it clears quite well. betsy and that model venture share the same chain case and drive shaft with factory reverse. once rear suspension is out, you need to pull the bearing on the left side of the tunnel to get the drive axle out of the sled. while bearing is off, i would use a pick to remove the seal and clean out the old grease. if it spins good, re pack with fresh grease and re install seal. then reassemble sled. with reverse, you do not have to take apart the chain case to remove the shaft as it is in a splined socket on that side.
6- rear suspension. while it is out, i would check the wheels for the rubber delaminating. then go through all the wheels and check/repack the bearings in the wheels as i described for the drive axle bearing. the bearings are replaceable in the stock style wheels on this sled if they are full of rust. then check all the pivot shafts in suspension move/rotate freely. next is to replace/check the slide plastics. usually when replacing the track, i put new ones on as they are usually around $20.00 canadian for the pair of cheap ones. once together, replace chain case oil (80w90 dino or synthetic is good) and adjust chain case chain tension as well as the track tension.
there are more little tricks but i think i covered most of it. main thing is to get the engine running 1st and making sure the crank seals and the fan is working correctly before tackling the rest as motor and track are 2 of the most expensive things on a sled to repair/replace.
sounding like a fun project for you both.
Goach2
New member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2025
- Messages
- 5
That's a great breakdown, thanks! I will work my way through each of those.
low slung
Active member
Also check the rear skid front arm as they tend to develop cracks as the KMs pile up.Also if you can add grease nipples to the pivot points it makes a world of difference to the ride quality.Welcome to TY
.
.
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
Up in the header to the right there is a Yamaha parts finder button..
Took me a couple shots to hit correct buttons for parts, snowmobiles , year model.
yamaha-motor.com
This might take you to correct model if not long track.
Maim is correct in his order ..DON"T bother cleaning and polishing before
determining if it will ever run again.
My sleds are all older but expect same theory of design. Get the seat off , then the fuel
tank usually comes off quickly . Mice loved to nest in the gap between tank and seat
and in my 76 and 77's , pee on the regulator.
Easier to clean tank and change fuel lines when off.
Edit time ... you have to pull the seat to get to the fuel filter at the bottom of a support
tube . and the parts link works.
Stick a shop vac in exhaust (removed) to see if draws easy .. also have found air
boxes stuffed with seeds and mice nests.
Ron
Took me a couple shots to hit correct buttons for parts, snowmobiles , year model.
VT480GTS (VENTURE GT) 89V1 1992 | Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.
VT480GTS (VENTURE GT) 89V1 1992 | Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.
Maim is correct in his order ..DON"T bother cleaning and polishing before
determining if it will ever run again.
My sleds are all older but expect same theory of design. Get the seat off , then the fuel
tank usually comes off quickly . Mice loved to nest in the gap between tank and seat
and in my 76 and 77's , pee on the regulator.
Easier to clean tank and change fuel lines when off.
Edit time ... you have to pull the seat to get to the fuel filter at the bottom of a support
tube . and the parts link works.
Stick a shop vac in exhaust (removed) to see if draws easy .. also have found air
boxes stuffed with seeds and mice nests.
Ron
Last edited:
Goach2
New member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2025
- Messages
- 5
Was trying to get the starter working last night, it was turning over pretty slow, then it stopped. Fuse still good and even by-passing the solenoid made no difference. Might need to pull the starter and have a look (if I can find it). Good news is a couple pull starts and it did start right up. Next I'll pull the fuel filter and start removing the carbs for cleaning.
RON HYDRAULIC YAM
Member
The starter .. hooked up solid to sled with a good battery ? Often we try to "boost" things and
boosting needs at least a weak battery connected as booster clamps and cables were made to
help out and not carry 12v through 12 foot of cables.
Battery chargers , unless a BIG one , often just add 50amp of boost and starters will
turn but often are needing over 100 amps just to launch properly.
So don't count the starter dead yet.
My VK540 generally won't boost over a dead battery as very small contact
area on the posts in an awkward spot. Can charge over a period of time as
only drawing 10-15 amps.
Reminds me . I need a battery as it is a pig to pull start.
Ron
Also . if replacing fuel lines .DON,T twist them to get them of any plastic
fittings like the tank,, maybe just carefully split them . Often hard as rock.
I have multiple tanks with nipple missing for fuel gauge .
boosting needs at least a weak battery connected as booster clamps and cables were made to
help out and not carry 12v through 12 foot of cables.
Battery chargers , unless a BIG one , often just add 50amp of boost and starters will
turn but often are needing over 100 amps just to launch properly.
So don't count the starter dead yet.
My VK540 generally won't boost over a dead battery as very small contact
area on the posts in an awkward spot. Can charge over a period of time as
only drawing 10-15 amps.
Reminds me . I need a battery as it is a pig to pull start.
Ron
Also . if replacing fuel lines .DON,T twist them to get them of any plastic
fittings like the tank,, maybe just carefully split them . Often hard as rock.
I have multiple tanks with nipple missing for fuel gauge .
Goach2
New member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2025
- Messages
- 5
Funny you mention the boost, it was turning over a bit slow with just the battery, so I put the 12v jump start on the battery as well and that's when the starter became unresponsive.
starter on that sled is under the exhaust y pipe on the front of the motor. usually cheaper to amazon one than rebuild if it is bad. that starter fit almost every old 2 stroke yamaha built. shows up on local aftermarket store for $180 canadian for a new one. yours might just need to be taken apart and the rust cleaned from the armature as it does build up.