new hyfax

archer

archer

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
270
Location
Brighton MI
Getting ready for the weekend- I put new hyfax in. Followed the directions in tech section, the "peel off" method. The old ones did not want to come off easy but they did come off. New ones went on just as hard. How do guys do this in the field? Heat, good tools, and a chair helped a lot. Put a few new studs in too. Couple of those were stubborn also. The old hyfax still had an 1/8" to go once I got them off and looked at them. At the bend they were at the line on the outside but thicker in the middle. Is this typical? Well, better for me than watching TV!
 
You have more snow built up towards the middle and rear of the skid, so you have more lubrication in that area.
The bend towards the front usually collects the least amount of snow, so that gets the least lubrication.
On all the Polaris sleds Ive owned the middle tends to wear out the quickest (it kinda defies logic, I know). I cant honestly say how Yamaha hyfax tends to wear. I only rode about 700 miles on my '90 Phazer and the hyfax looked as good as new.
Hebi
 
Let me clarify-on a cross section at the bend (and at other spots)- the material was thicker in the middle than at the sides. After thinking about it I wonder if the track balloons more in the center than at the rails. That might explain it...
 
Not sure what you are seeing, but hebi is... incorrect. Infact Yamaha tend to wear hyfax at the front curve because no wheels and the track wants to run the shortest distance. many people use additional wheels at the curve. The Yamahas also eat hyfax at the very rear--you know where all that snow is...

Archer not sure why they "dome" never noticed it, but your theory sounds fair.
 
The reason why it wears more at the rear probably is because thats where a lot of the downward force is.
If you look at the picture of Archer's sled, the rear arm comes down just ahead of the rear axle wheels.
Hebi
 
I found the same problem. Check the face of the track clips for straightness/flatness. After looking at my track clips, I discovered that the clips were dished. I replaced the clips and used the vise/press to install them. My buddy, a Ski-poo mechanic, said they have seen the same problem with the clips when pliers where used to install the clips. Appearently, the pliers only apply crimping pressure in the middle of the clip; the press/vice applies the pressure across the entire clip.
 
Thanks greg - good info. wow you changed the clips? I would have stuck to changing sliders. Those clips are a pain, and expensive.

Thanks - interesting theory
 
yea the hyfax wear the most where there is the greatest pressure on them, caused by two things: the weight of the machine, and the tendency of the track to want to run the straightest path. Suspension settings have obvious effects for the same reasons
 
It's not that expensive; $0.80 a clip and I luckily already had the press/vice($80.00).
It's been mentioned here before, you can drill holes in your new hyfax before you install them. These holes hold snow/ice and help save the hyfax in bad snow/ice conditions.
 
I agree that changing hyfax on Yammies is a major hassle. Especially with a Ripsaw track. I will pull suspension every Fall and replace them that way and hope that they last a full season.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top