bearing cover off?????

S

**sj**

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Feb 15, 2004
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Location
white lake, Mich
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doing a little routine gear swap and noticed the bottom bearing cover was 3/4 popped off....the bearing was obviously exposed to the chain lube....should I just pop the cover back on or???
the dled has only 1400 miles....so not time to change that bearing yet..
 
I would change the bearing as you likely have some metal filings in the bearing. The magnet does not instantly collect the filings; they circulate through the oil for a while.
 
Once the c-clip is off, I pull the dust seal out and use 2 dental picks (180 degrees apart from each other and pull evenly. Instead of dental picks, you could use meat skewers that hold a turkeys *** flap togeather (Wal-mart $2.00). Just bend the tip of the skewer 90 degrees so that they hook into the bearing race.
 
is'n the dust seal supposed to be attached to the bearing? (the part I was originally referring to)....
seriously....you think I need to replace it...I could clean it and reseal it huh?

the dental pick idea is sweet...thanks
 
The bearing is around $40.00. I personally would change it. Once filings get into the bearing, they have already started to wear the hardened surfaces; once the hardened surface has been damaged, the bearing will wear very quickly. It would really bite if she lets go and causes other damage. 40 bucks is pretty cheap insurance. I took a chance with a quad gear box bearing and it bite me in the *** for a $300.00 shaft.
 
inexpensive bearings

FYI to all... There is nothing magical about an OEM bearing, sealed or otherwise, except for the expensive price. Instead of getting OEM bearings from your local shop, get yours from Motion Industries (new name for Berry Bearing) or Applied. Both are nationwide companies. You will get a better quality SKF or FAG bearings (German) instead of a cheapo Asian bearing. That $40 bearing in question will only cost about $15, including the seal. All you need to do is tell them the # on the bearing or bring it in. I've never had a problem getting a bearing for any application, including trailer bearings, tractor, lawn mower, etc. I'd change the bearing. Good luck.
 
Thats funny ,I dont have an inside seal on my chaincase bearings,If its got seals on it ,how does it get lubrication?The only way I could ever get the bearing out is to pull the casing.
 
Bearing seal

Here we go again with the "seal" argument. This has been on here SOOOOO much. I have seen chain case bearings with the seal toward the gear and toward the track. I understand the argument about the metal in the chain case getting into the bearing. I run the seal toward the track and let the chain case oil lube the bearing. I change my oil about every 500 miles. What the heck, it only takes 10 minutes!!! I have had no problems. My town if FULL of Yamaha's and I've only seen that lower bearing fail once. I agree about where to get those bearings though. I run NTN bearings in my chain case which (I am told) are very high quality and they cost me $20 a piece.

Madmatt
 
thanks Matt...so waht your saying is not to sweat it if I have done good oil main. right?
so now that the seal is off...should I remove the bearing and re install the seal or just leave it off? if I was to remove the bearing, any tricks on getting that sob out of there? I cant even get the circlip off with my snapring tool!
 
i always install my bearings with no seal on the inside. I like to have the chaincase lube getting in there, and i change it quite often. Never had any problems, so not going to change.
 
FYI,
Yamaha and Yamaha manual says the seal should go towards the chain side.
I understand the argument; to each there own. I personally don't like the idea of metal filings having access to the bearing.
 
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okay Greg...thanks for the view point....now that it has been off for about 500 miles....what would you do....remove it and repack it with? leave it on flush it out and repack it with? and reinstall the dust seal?
 
It's a tough call; there are alot of members here who have had the bearings exposed to the gear oil and had no problems. I think it's a personal choice: 1) constantly getting lubed or 2) impurities being sealed out; either way has pro's and cons. You can't tell what shape the bearing is in while it is installed. It's a small gamble to put the seal back on and leave the bearing for the rest of this season. I would personally change it but I have all the tools on hand and a bad bearing experience in the past to motivate myself. As said earlier, most bearing suppliers can get you the bearing for 1/2 of the dealers price. I prefer NTN Formula bearings but thats only my preference (based on how much longer they have lasted on my idler wheels). Sorry, I can't give you a definitive answer. I hope this doesn't start another war of threads; everyone has a good reason/explanation for how to install these bearings. Ride together not each other.
 
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