Studding Ripsaw 99 SRX

nailsandrails

nailsandrails

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Aug 9, 2003
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Age
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Location
Northern, IL
I know there has been a lot of debate on here about studding the ripsaw when put on an SRX. From what I have read I am going to go ahead and do it. I was thinking I could get away with just running them down the center. What do you guys think? I ride mostly upper Wisconsin trails. I just don't want to have to worry around the icy corners....
 
cut the track down 1/8in, then use 1.175 studs. use 168 or 192 using all outside bars for both paterns. middle studs wont help in icy corners if your sled tips up any, they lift off the ground.
 
There is guy's running 1.18 studs on the ripsaw track on there rx1's.I'm not sure for the srx if you have to go to 8t driver's.
 
It sounds like I have to go to 8T drivers. I have a few questions then.
1. Where do you buy the drivers and generally how much are they?
2. What will I have to do to gearing to get it back to stock?
3. What is needed to get the speedometer right?
4. Are there any negatives to running the 8T drivers?

Thanks!
 
No need to get the speeometer right.High performance enginneering sell's driver's,tracksusa.You could also check with Matt from the speedshop.With 8t you have less chance of putting a stud through the exchanger.Not sure on the price depend's who you buy them from.
 
if you go with any stud below 1.2 you dont need the 8t drivers
you will still need guards to be safe. cutting the track is alot safer, cheaper, more efficient, and quicker.
 
the 8 tooth drivers will suck up more power than the 9 tooth, but If you get new drivers, might as well get extrovers, and maybe the looser track will gain some of that back.
 
Well it sounds like it may just be easier to go with the 9830 if I am going to stud. I have not purchased the ripsaw yet, but thought I had my mind made up. I have only heard good things about the 9830, but just thought I would go with the ripsaw since it is supposed to be a little better. Thanks for all the input guys!
 
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