What is the perfered method of summerizing a 600 Venom?
Mt normal method has been to stabilize the gas, remove most of it, fog the motor, then add oil to each cylinder.
Does Yami. use setiment traps on the carbs?
Thanks ,
2datrl
Mt normal method has been to stabilize the gas, remove most of it, fog the motor, then add oil to each cylinder.
Does Yami. use setiment traps on the carbs?
Thanks ,
2datrl
Ding
Darn Tootin'
Drain the carbs for sure . . .
Tod
VIP Member
my way
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can. Good rule is if it has a plastic gas tank drain it dry, if it has a steel tank fill it up so it does not rust.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If it’s a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
Start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly.
Tod
yamaholic22
Active member
Tod i threw your awesome explanation under the FAQ. You're right, people never seem to understand the concept of draining ALL GAS.
Tod
VIP Member
yamaholic22
OK - thanks
OK - thanks
98srx6
New member
I just pull on the oil cable instead of using fogging oil. Seems to work good. Maybe its not the best way to do it.
Zom
New member
Thanks for the great explanation on how to summerize a sled, but I have a question about draining the gas. I bought a siphon, but once almost all the gas is out, of course the siphon doesn't work any more. So I fired it up ('04 Viper) & let it run. Started to overheat, so I shut it down. Fired it back up an hour or so later & let it run some more. It's starting to spit & sputter, so it's almost out of gas, but I can still see some gas in the tank. Is this ok? Is there a better way to drain the gas than a siphon? Remove the tank?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
zom
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
zom
98srx6
New member
Thats fine, just drain your carbs now.
yamaholic22
Active member
just throw a good shot of sta-bil into what is still there so that it doesn't start to varnish, and then drain the carbs. Then in fall, just fill it up with premium and that will more than offset the lost octane from the little bit of fuel that is left in there.
Zom
New member
Thanks for the advice guys.
zom
zom
03viperguy
Moderator
tod, best explanation ever! thats exactly how I do it for the most part (dont use the fogging stuff, just hose the cylinders) and I agree with you....DRAIN THE GAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
yamaholic22
Active member
You mean you only spray the fogging oil down the cylinders? Ouch! How do you expect the crank bearings to get lubricated well enough to inhibit any rust from forming? Fog that thing or you'll be sorry sometime! I have seen WAY too many crank bearings blown apart because of a couple small dots of rust on them from poor summerization. Not worth the time, money, and agony of rebuilding the bottom end when you could've sprayed a little insurance right into the engine.
Tod
VIP Member
Plus its fun to make as much smoke as you can, Plus then you know that you have fogged the hell out of that motor. The motor will run on the fogger and it helps pull any last bit of fuel out of the system. Makes me laugh just thinking about all that smoke........... usually draws out a neiabor or two....LOL
Tod
Tod
yamaholic22
Active member
LOL, Tod did you eat paint chips as a kid? lol, j/k man
03viperguy
Moderator
last sled had over 9k miles without any lower end trouble, and dads last sled went 13k miles untouched, only thing her replaced was the clutch. still had the original track always figured that the oil injection keapt pumping and floods it out hen it runs out of gas. always fould the plugs real bad with a LOT of oil
yamaholic22
Active member
well ok don't do it then. Just saying its so easy to do, and i have seen the results of not doing it way too many times to overlook.
03viperguy
Moderator
true, I will give it a whirl this time around just always figured that the oil injection would coat things good. is this not true? seems like it would, guess I just never thought otherwise.
yamaholic22
Active member
the problem with the injection oil is that it is such a light oil, made to be burned cleanly. Fogging oil is a much thicker, stickier, foamier oil that will fly around inside the case from the whirlwind effect and stick to all components in there. Fogging oil also has a lot of rust and corrosion inhibitors so that your crank bearings and wrist pins don't rust up. This is even more of a problem to do with reformulated gasoline. The alcohol content in the gas tends to wash the oil from the internal components a lot more than traditional gas. Hope this helps.
03viperguy
Moderator
it does, you have convinced me to fog for sure thanks for the tips. I never claim to know it all, and if someone explains something to me and it makes sense, I listen and follow it accordingly so thanks again for the help! this is why this site ROCKS!