Help - Overheat!

Viper Treats

Viper Treats

New member
Joined
Feb 21, 2005
Messages
431
Age
52
Location
Appleton, WI
Getting an overheat problem on my viper. Had a stud go through my front heat exchanger a while ago and I had the dealer weld it up. I can keep the light off in good snow conditions or by babying the throttle. I never had the overheat before the exchanger was welded. What does the inside of the exchanger look like? I am guessing the weld is restricting the flow or I have a blockage somewhere else. Its piped and I have the rear exchanger and head mod.

Thanks.
 
much more likely is that you have an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system that limits the cooling ability so when you get in marginal snow, it overheats easier. Are all of the heat exchangers getting nice and hot? Try bleeding the cooling system and see what that does for you, it may not have been done right after the weld job.
 
I took it to a dealer up in Canada and we checked everything out. He put the front end up and bled the system. I ran it another 500 miles after that, I had no choice as we were on our loop in Canada. Wouldn't the air have been bled out by now? Does the air bleed bolt on the head work with the carb heater on or off?
 
It sounds like an air lock...try warming it up good then roll it it over on both sides for a bit...lift the back and then the front. If the coolant level goes down you'll know some air escaped.
 
you need to loosen off the bolt @ the bottom of the carb heater switch and pull (wiggle) the switch out some to vent anything from the head. I think you will find that most air is trapped @ the rear heat exchanger.
 
OK, just to get this right, I ran the sled 1200 miles and you guys still think I have an air lock somewhere?

I was going to check the thermostat, got the specs on temps it should open.
 
There should be a air bleeder screw under the seat in the back above the crossover tube. The is a perfect example of what to do in the tech section. I did the bleed out after the new heat exchanger went in, but you do the same for the crossover tube as well if you don't have the rear exchanger.
 
The instructions to bleed say: start the sled and get the exchagers hot, lift the back of the sled so the bleed screw is higher than coolant bottle, then remove screw until coolant flows (seat needs to be removed for this), set back down and add coolant if necessary, start up again and let it run for 5 minutes, lift the back of the sled up only to carb height and bleed again, add coolant after it cools down and your done.
 
the higher you get that bleed screw above the rest of the sled the better off you'll be.
 
Brunter Burner said:
There should be a air bleeder screw under the seat in the back above the crossover tube. The is a perfect example of what to do in the tech section. I did the bleed out after the new heat exchanger went in, but you do the same for the crossover tube as well if you don't have the rear exchanger.
Click to expand...


I saw that air bleed before I had the exchanger installed. Is there a bleed for the exchanger also? I haven't pulled the seat since the exchanger was put on. I will check the tech section. Hard to believe the dealer didn't get this right after the weld job, they are usually pretty good too. Thanks.
 
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