More travel ON A SRX HOW TO MAKE IT.

E

esishot

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May 17, 2004
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i have an 01 srx with 136 m-10 with an 1.5 paddle and NO front end what should i put in the front so it works out soo it has lots of travel what shocks????????????
All suggestions worth a listen SPILL YOUR KNOWLEDGE.
MIke
 
I guess it comes down to how big your wallet is.

1) if you have the stock ohlins then the cheapest route might be a set of adjustable shock brackets with advant-edge motorsports shock extensions. This would easily offset the longer travel rear.

2) For a little more money you could just put in a set of Viper fronts with a set of Maxxperformance shock extensions and you would come out pretty good. I added a set of 02 Viper stock fronts to my srx and I love them so far. Huge improvement over stock.

3) For even more money you could get a set of revalved long travel shocks that could be tuned to your riding style and weight. Many of the performance places such as pioneer or maxx performance many others I'm sure, sell great packages that range in price from moderate pricing to #^%##% they get that much for shocks.

Me I tend to some what of a cheap 'o and opted for good upgrade to viper take offs and spent the money saved on clutching, and this summer upgrade to a nice set of performance ski's.
 
TimmySRX said:
I guess it comes down to how big your wallet is.

1) if you have the stock ohlins then the cheapest route might be a set of adjustable shock brackets with advant-edge motorsports shock extensions. This would easily offset the longer travel rear.

2) For a little more money you could just put in a set of Viper fronts with a set of Maxxperformance shock extensions and you would come out pretty good. I added a set of 02 Viper stock fronts to my srx and I love them so far. Huge improvement over stock.

3) For even more money you could get a set of revalved long travel shocks that could be tuned to your riding style and weight. Many of the performance places such as pioneer or maxx performance many others I'm sure, sell great packages that range in price from moderate pricing to #^%##% they get that much for shocks.

Me I tend to some what of a cheap 'o and opted for good upgrade to viper take offs and spent the money saved on clutching, and this summer upgrade to a nice set of performance ski's.
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How did you mount the Viper shocks on the srx when they have a clevis type end?
 
SNO-XR

I made a steel bushing that fit between the shock clevis and the shock bracket on the sled. I then got a couple of teflon bushing that I squeezed between the busing and the shock. This acutally turned out pretty good. There are a bunch of post here on TY and one of those has pictures. I ride pretty aggressive on trail and some power line riding with moguls and jumps. This setup took this pretty well and no issues with the shock mount after several hundred miles of riding. If you want pic of what I did, just post and I'll go take some of the front of my srx and post them here.

Just two steel bushing, machined to fit and to teflon washers to make the joint a little looser than running steel on steel.
 
i still dont understand why they made the srx mounts different than the rest, doesn't make too much sense.
 
yamaholic22 said:
i still dont understand why they made the srx mounts different than the rest, doesn't make too much sense.
Click to expand...
The only thing I can think of is that it allowed more room for the triplepipes,the shock mount doesn't stick up in the engine compartment.
 
You don't HAVE to, and a lot of guys don't, but some do and you really should because otherwise the geometry is a little out of whack, and the ski stance narrows considerably at the end of the travel in each direction because of the shorter rods = shorter radius of rotation around the center of the sled. Also the higher CG with the longer shocks will make it want to roll more in the corners if you don't put in longer rad. rods.
 
What I found on mine, without the longer radius rods was that with the steeper angle of the short rods caused the tie rods to bind on the bulkhead when at full travel. When I jacked the front end up so it was completely off the ground I could hardly turn the bars, not cool. Others have said to have no issues. But when I put on the longer rods issue pretty much gone. The tie rods are not really centered in the opening, which I think makes no sense. Anways just what I had happen just a FYI.
 
Get a set of 97-99 artic cat snowpro shocks(fox), they will fit and have low speed dampening adjustment. you can rebuild them for cheap! and they work great when re-vavled. If you get a set, I have the valving specs you can give them to deycore, and it will cost you about $80 to rebuild/revalve. I did mine on a viper, and had to make custom shock brackets up top, you shouldn't have to do this with the SRX. They should bolt right in with some spacers or washers. Got mine on ebay for $110 bucks!
 
In my case I did nothing to the sway bar. The kit I bought from Max performance came with a set of spacers for the sway bar links which helped offset the longer rods. So I think the answer is no you shouldn't need to do anything but space the sway bar links back out a little if you add longer rad rods. These were like 8-10mm spacers on each side. Don't quote me on the width of the spacers but from putting them in there were close to that range.
 
I got a set of longer tie rods it the kit as well. But you could get away with the stock ones, wouldn't recommend it though as they are pretty cheap, and if you use the stock rods you are going to be running toward the end of the adjustable rod end length. Making that link pretty weak. Yeah I would say you would want longer tie rods to go with the rad rods.
 
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