Storing my SRX

CAM2

CAM2

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Joined
Dec 22, 2004
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181
Age
56
Location
Illinois
Whats the best things I could do for my sled when storing for the season? how do you fog the motor and does this really help?
 
I believe it was Turk who posted that he pulls the injector pump cable to full so it gets maximum oil. I found it wasn't that difficult to remove the top of the airbox and the tray inside and fog it with fogging oil. Fogging is a necessity it protects the bearings and crank from rusting during the summer. If you do get rusting on the crank/bearings you will go down next season for sure. It's also very important to stabilize the fuel to eliminate deposits in the carbs that occour when fuel evaporates in the bowls, and to ensure that the fuel has maintained it's octane over the summer. Old fuel and dirty carbs have to be the number 1 and 2 reasons for burndowns. Get some fogging oil and Sta bil at any auto parts store or your dealer.
 
really you should drain the gas instead of just stabilizing it. While sta-bil does help prevent the fuel from varnishing, it does NOT maintain the octane of the fuel, which can cause a lot of problems when you go to ride it next fall. Best thing to do is drain that fuel, if there is any left run it dry till the sled dies (keeping it running as long as possible with the choke), and then get in there and drain the float bowls. This is really the only way to ensure that you won't have fuel varnishing. And DEFINATELY fog that thing before you shut it down, your crank bearings will thank you. ;)!
 
Sta-Bil guarantees to keep fuel fresh for up to 2 years when added in the right concentration which to me means retained octane. I've never drained fuel and never added any fresh before the first ride the following year and never had any problems including never having to clean my carbs. I've recommend Sta-Bil to many people and haven't heard of any problems from them either. To each his own, and draining certainly isn't going to cause any problems just more work.
 
I understand that our ( any injecter oil) oil has detergent in it and is not very good for the bearings as a storage oil.It is far better to use fogging oil.
 
fogging oil has rust-inhibitors, but the huge benefit is that is a real thick, sticky oil so it sticks to everything in the engine, giving it all a real good barrier or protection against moisture over the summer.
 
So let me get this right you take apart airbox take out tray and run it to get the fog oil in there?
 
yes with the airbox cover off so that you have access to the carb throats, with the engine running, give each carb shots of the fogging oil for a couple minutes, but not enough to kill it, and then after alternating through the carbs for a couple minutes, spray it faster into them to kill the engine with the fogging oil. Now you don't want to start it again until next year. Take the spark plugs out and spray fogging oil down each cylinder while slowly turning the engine over by hand. This will coat the cylinder walls, protecting them as well. Put the plugs back in and put the airbox back together and it should be good to go for the summer (as long as you have the fuel stabilized/drained)
 
Ditto on what holic said

Fog that baby good! I just did all three of my sleds last Saturday, didn't take long at all. The top of the airbox comes off really easily. It's the best half hour you can spend in the spring. Of course I have to mess around with mine all day, I'd hate to get it done so quickly. Also grease the spindles, and rear suspension. I spray some WD-40 on pretty much everything except the clutches, just for protection. I also use seafoam in the fuel, but I drain it in the fall and always pull the carbs and clean them too. ;)!
 
Carbs should definately be cleaned in the fall before the machines are ever ridden. Pistons and cylinders aren't cheap, an hour of our time is.
 
no, in fall you just put fresh gas in it and pull and pull until it starts and it will clear the fogging oil out itself. The carb cleaning is not to get the fogging oil out, it is to make sure there is no varnish plugging the mains or pilots and that the needles are allowed to move easily when the floats rise and fall.
 
For fogging my sled i made a one into three hose to fit on the can of fogging oil. This way I can spray into all three intakes at one time. I go in at the intake boots and insert my small hose into each intake boot right in fromt of the air box. I warm the sled up first, then drain all the gas out with a siphen, then run the sled untill it wont run any more using the chock, insert the lines for fogging and then start spraying fogger and start the sled at the same time (the sled will run on the propellant in the fogger) this was you are sucking every bit of fuel out that you can. I did this for three or four years straight without cleaning carbs. (it is still a good idea just to pull the carbs and clean them)

I have a wright up in the FAQ section about fogging I think it is under Yamaholic22 name as he posted it for me in there.

Tod
 
What about running the sled every week or during the summer if it is accessible? Keeps the gas flowing and moisture from accummulating?
 
There are several opinions on this also, some will say that if you are not ridding it for awhile you will just possibly create more moisture than letting it set because you are not getting it up to temp and not abel to really get all the moisture out just by fireing it up every two weeks or so.

I have done this with my moms and step dads sleds during the riding months just to keep them ready to go at any time but to do it right you need to fog the crap outa that unit and get the gas out.

Good rule is - if it has a plastic tank then drain it - if it has a metal tank fill it.

Tod
 
I do pretty much what everyone else is saying. I leave about half a tank in and use stabil on that. Then I pull the airbox right off to fog it. I just set the airbox back in without tightening anything, being that I pull my carbs off in the fall to clean them anyhow, no sense in buttoning everything back up. After I pop the float bowl off to clean in the fall, I install new main jets (every fall). They're cheap, and then you know they're clean. Before I start it up I siphon all the stabilized gas out of the tank and put fresh in (I dump the stabil gas in my snow blower). After the fogging oil is worked out I put new plugs in and away I go.
 
yamaholic22 said:
Carbs should definately be cleaned in the fall before the machines are ever ridden. Pistons and cylinders aren't cheap, an hour of our time is.
Click to expand...


What all do you clean in the carbs?

I have used stable in the past and had good luck. I also make sure to run fresh gas in the fall.
 
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