vipertripplexxx
New member
If your installing a m-10 skid out of a different make of sled check out this post. mine was out of a polaris, and those mounting kits are a bunch of $$$$$.
i'll just transfer the stuff I wrote the post no longer has the pics attached, here goes. I had to through A pic of the front shock conversion in, they are sweeeett!!!! Old snowpro shocks with some valving changes.
Wow that took me long enough! sorry bout that. lets get to it. The suspension I have is out of a polaris, and it does not use the torque arms. If you have A torque arm suspension, then you could line up the piviot holes(m-10) with the pro-action front mounting holes(sled), and transfer the torque arm mount holes to the tunnel. I would keep the torque arm level with the bottom of the tunnel.
As for the tunnel supports, some basic aluminum flat stock works, check your local hardware store. I used 1/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide, you will need 2 1/2 feet. basically find a way to get it to sit flat on the tunnel. I milled some, ground some. Don't be shy, grind that S^#t off.
to find the rear hole location, measure back from the center of the front pivot hole 25 5/8" inch. and use the stock metal flanged washer to get the height. This is the washer thats used between the tunnel and rear bolt (see pics). reuse it when mounting the rear pivot shaft. Use a bullet point drill it won't walk, and move your hole location. you'll notice the rear hole is now further foward than the stock location, but at the same height. I threw a rivit in washer for the h#ll of it, it also helps guide the drill when you go transfer the holes to the homebrew tunnel supports.
Now there were some rivits you had to grind off to get the plates flush to the tunnel. from the outside of the tunnel, drill those holes through the homemade supports. use some nuts and bolts through front pivot holes, to hold the plates in position, and rivit them in. use steel or stainless rivits, not aluminum. Now drill out the rear hole in the supports. Add some extra rivits through the tunnel into the supports and your done.
This setup keeps your track tension perfect, and won't scrape the tunnel w/ room for studs.

i'll just transfer the stuff I wrote the post no longer has the pics attached, here goes. I had to through A pic of the front shock conversion in, they are sweeeett!!!! Old snowpro shocks with some valving changes.
Wow that took me long enough! sorry bout that. lets get to it. The suspension I have is out of a polaris, and it does not use the torque arms. If you have A torque arm suspension, then you could line up the piviot holes(m-10) with the pro-action front mounting holes(sled), and transfer the torque arm mount holes to the tunnel. I would keep the torque arm level with the bottom of the tunnel.
As for the tunnel supports, some basic aluminum flat stock works, check your local hardware store. I used 1/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide, you will need 2 1/2 feet. basically find a way to get it to sit flat on the tunnel. I milled some, ground some. Don't be shy, grind that S^#t off.
to find the rear hole location, measure back from the center of the front pivot hole 25 5/8" inch. and use the stock metal flanged washer to get the height. This is the washer thats used between the tunnel and rear bolt (see pics). reuse it when mounting the rear pivot shaft. Use a bullet point drill it won't walk, and move your hole location. you'll notice the rear hole is now further foward than the stock location, but at the same height. I threw a rivit in washer for the h#ll of it, it also helps guide the drill when you go transfer the holes to the homebrew tunnel supports.
Now there were some rivits you had to grind off to get the plates flush to the tunnel. from the outside of the tunnel, drill those holes through the homemade supports. use some nuts and bolts through front pivot holes, to hold the plates in position, and rivit them in. use steel or stainless rivits, not aluminum. Now drill out the rear hole in the supports. Add some extra rivits through the tunnel into the supports and your done.
This setup keeps your track tension perfect, and won't scrape the tunnel w/ room for studs.
