What 2-cycle oil are u using in your Viper ?

YAMAHOWIE

YAMAHOWIE

VIP Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Messages
147
Age
71
Location
Shelton, Conn. Inlet / Old Forge, NY
Just got the bad news from my dealer the other day regarding my sons (Spiderviper) 02 Viper. Bad crank. Seems the crank and bearings got some moisture in there somehow and rusted up. Not a heavy crust but a light coating. Possibly from poor summerization during the 2-summers before we got it.Then may have been stored in a damp location. Bought it in Feb. 04 with 400 miles on her. Now I've been running Yamies since the early 70's. I always used Yamalube until I ported and piped my 01 700 SXR. I did it through Bender and they recommened using Klotz as it burned much cleaner. I switched everything over to Klotz then and never looked back. My mechanic seems to think Yamalube would be better in the Viper as it coats the crank and internal parts better. What do all you folks think ??? Should I switch back to Yamalube or is Klotz better ?? What are you using??? I really need your advice here......... Thanks, Howie :o|
 
I think the klotz will be fine once the crank is back together, it is great oil, as is Amsoil interceptor and from what i've heard blue marble. No two stroke oil is going to keep the cranks from rusting in the summer if it hasn't been fogged. I would say with 99% certainty that it wasn't summerized properly, and that is causing your problems. So many people think that if they just start them up every week or two in the summer that it will be fine but your treading on thin ice. How hard is it to fog these things, honestly? I realize this wasn't the fault of you or your son, but most likely the previous owner, but after you get it back together make SURE it gets fogged every summer, and drain the float bowls too. Will save you A LOT of headaches and money next fall when you go and pull them out.
 
Thanks for the reply Yamahaulic---- The only hint I should have picked up on was that there was some black mold around the rear tailight and in the rear compartment. Kinda confirms the damp storage thing. I use Amsoil in my RX-1 and my FX-HO and am very happy with it. Just want to be sure I'm not doing anything wrong by using Klotz. (love the smell of Klotz ! )
 
i'm not sure that the price of klotz makes it very economical to run for everyday riding, because that stuff is expensive and it is a little lighter weight than most of the other oils so that there is less friction loss for racing. I would probably just run amsoil interceptor or maybe even yamalube if you clean the valves a lot ;)!
 
I use SnoMax PV. CHeap Cheap stuff. Carl is happy. One day, carl notices something screwed up. Takes PV out, carl find a BUSTED valve, WTF!
 
You know how much you clean the valves really depends on your particular riding style, oil used, and oil pump setting, but I would do it at least every 1,000 miles. It is so easy to do but if you don't do it, it can get expensive quick and the power difference is big if you have a stuck valve. If you are finding that they are real clean at 1,000 miles, wait longer between cleanings. If they are real dirty at 1,000, maybe do it a little more often. Vipers are notoriously real good on oil, so they typically have cleaner valves than srxs for a given mileage, but not THAT clean! ;)!
 
I run Ipone. I love the stuff. You power valves stay clean. It smells like cherries. There is no smoke. I also found the sled seemed to run better. ;)!

Yeah it sucks when you buy something used and it craps out on ya. The low mileage should have been your first clue thats it has been siting around for awhile.
 
Snowmax PV from Cenex is a great product at a good price (not over priced like the other stuff). I should know as I am sponsored by Cenex and did some R&D for them with the Snowmax PV oil. It burns alot cleaner and doesn't have as bad of a odor as some other oils I've run.

A little reading for those of you interested in the Snowmax PV. Snowmax PV Info

Oh also a few 2002 and 2003 Vipers had crank problems which were a result of a lean oil pump setting. I have a 2003 Viper that currently has a junk crank (bearing went out) because of a lean oil pump setting, you may want to richen it up slightly when you get it back from the dealer. I'd rather burn a little extra oil than replace my crank!
 
I have been told Amsoil has no rust inhibitors in it. I ran the interceptor oil last year and have major crud on my power valves. I am changing back to Yamalube. Seafoam every third tank will help keep the power valves from sticking. They will still need to be cleaned. My 2 cents.
 
there isn't a consumer oil out there anymore that doesn't have rust inhibitors

AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil is engineered specially for power sports applications and those engines equipped with exhaust power valves. It contains the finest synthetic ester based oils and additives available for exceptional cleanliness properties. INTERCEPTOR is the result of years of field testing in the Rocky Mountain region, which provided some of the most severe conditions possible. INTERCEPTOR excels at controlling exhaust valve sticking and provides outstanding overall lubrication properties.

Excellent exhaust power valve performance
Reduces smoke and odor
Surpasses SAE #4 cold temperature fluidity properties and has a -54° pour point
Reduces wear on cylinders and bearings for long engine life
Controls ignition promoting deposits and pre-detonation caused by "hot spots"
Versatile and excellent for all types of recreational equipment
Protects against rust.
Recommended for injector systems or at 50:1 mix ratios
Recommended for Applications Requiring the Following Specifications: API TC, JASO FC
 
blue marble,first season using it and loved it,sled ran great,they claim it takes less oil,but i think it is around the same BUT no smoke nor smell the under body stays clean and at 1200 miles pulled the power valves were spotless.So next season it will be my choice again, $32.00 (us funds) per u.s.gal.
up here in quebec they try to rob ya,the same u.s gal sells for $58.00 cad!
 
i'm going to have to get my hands on a gallon of blue marble and see how i like it. Haven't heard anything bad about it. Amsoil is good, i like it a lot, but maybe blue marble is better.
 
Klotz....I like it. Smells sweet. Very little smoke. I bought a case at the Novi snow show last year and saved 50 bucks. still have a bunch leftover from this season. Anywho...my 2 cents.
 
I cleaned the power valves on my other sons Viper this weekend.... after 1400 miles using Klotz they were pretty gummed up. Only one came out without coaxing. They were supposedly cleaned at the beginning of the season but I never checked them. Maybe they were half dirty when I started the season. What a difference now when you crack the throttle. ;)!

Gonna probably stick with the Klotz... The dealer is re-assembling SpiderVipers engine today and will fill it up with Yamalube-2. Do you think I should run a few tanks of Yamalube-2 through her or go right back to Klotz ??

Thanks for all the replys---- always nice to hear everyones opinion. ;)!
 
i would probably run a tank of the yamalube through first, right down until the oil light comes on, because that way with the oil only being semi-synthetic, the parts will wear in a little quicker. Then if you wanted to you could switch back to Klotz. You could just run klotz right away too, it wouldn't hurt anything, the parts probably just won't wear in quite as fast.
 
As long as the Yamalube is already in there I'll probably let it run through... I think maybe the rings will take a better set with the semi-syn. oil for the first tank. Any other "break-in" thoughts or recommendations with the "basically" new motor ??? ;)!
 
pretty much just ride it regularly, just make sure to vary the throttle position a lot so that the engine is constantly changing rpms. Not a good idea to hang at one rpm for a long time with a new engine, because harmonic frequencies and vibrations in the engine are different at different rpms, and that affects how the parts set in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top