Mountain Performance TRANSFER ENHANCEMENT KIT Questions

MountainMax

MountainMax

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May 19, 2003
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Churchill Falls,NL, Canada
Hey guys, I just bought this setup for my 2002 Mountain Max, has anyone used this kit? it replaces the transfer rods and is suppose to be adjustable but Im afraid it may transfer too much, can someone explain how this works to me, looks like the straps just keep the rear arm from over extending and lets the skid go to full transfer all the time.????
 

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it works awesome. i know a guy up in makkovik that used this kit. he said it worked awesome. supposedly the belt can only be adjusted so far as long as it dont go far enough to flip the rear scissors. it allows the scissors to transfer without movin the suspension to much.
 
I did it to mine and would never go back but mine seen almost no trail riding. The strap is there to set ride height and to reduce wear on the suspension parts when the track is off the ground. You can adjust transfer with shock preload and the strap tension together. The kit works great and works better with the longer tracks 151+. ===SRXSRULE===
 
Oh yeah, one more thing. If you want even more transfer, move your scissor mount forward about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I have a picture of where I moved mine if you want it. ===SRXSRULE===
 
eric i wish i could've taken that thing for a ride before you got rid of it, sounds like it was the cat's a$$ ;)!
 
LOL....It was alot of fun. I just should have kept the thing. ===SRXSRULE===
 
Thanks for the posts guys, I know it will allow alot of transfer but what If I want less, I drag race sometimes with this sled and want it not to transfer too much, can I stiffen up the progression setting on the rear shock and shorten the rear straps?
 
Transfer Rods removed

Hey Man,
Those transfer rods will work better than the strap for drag racing. The reason to take them off is to eliminate trenching in the powder. Here is how it works with the rods ON. When you nail it the front end goes up until it reaches its limit(on the rods) which isn't much. It in effect holds the front end down causing it to push snow and holds the sled back and the track can't push it so it digs in (trenching). When you take the rods OFF and put the strap on you are merely removing the limit of travel (set by the rods). Now when you nail it it the front end comes up out of the snow as far as the shocks will allow. This makes an incredible difference in the powder. When you drag in this configuration you may have to steer the sled with your legs because your skis will be pretty far off the ground until it levels out. Also, if the strap is too tight you will not have as much ski pressure so cornering will not be optimal, if this is the case loosen the strap. However, it is important to make sure that the strap is tight enough to keep the rear suspension from buckling over backwards. I ride in the mountains and use my transfer rods for paper weights. Hope this helps...
 
Srxsrule

Hey eric, what is your wheight loss formula for Mountain Max. I need to shed a few pounds. Would like to shed the least expensive pounds first. Also looking for a stock 141x15x2.

-Rick
 
SRXSRULE said:
Oh yeah, one more thing. If you want even more transfer, move your scissor mount forward about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I have a picture of where I moved mine if you want it. ===SRXSRULE===
Click to expand...


Did this help with the holeshot? email a pic if you still have it! ;)!
 
Im gettin these for my Sx cant wait to do some tight holeshots and deep powder riding... although i still have the ol 3/4" track :(
 
Well the snow is down (over 2feet fell in one week) so it's time to test out my new rear skid, Im hoping if i keep my front spring soft, and the center spring stiff and play with my straps I should be able to dial it in for good holeshots, lots of testing forsure but itI saved 17.5 pounds
 
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