SRXSRULE & DING where right

maxdlx

maxdlx

VIP Lifetime Member
Joined
Nov 30, 1999
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Tipton, Iowa
Rules and Ding both ?'ed my remoute of my skid. At the time I thought I was right and they where wrong. We'll I'm here to tell you they where right. I had the center hole of my suspension dropped 3 inches to match the rear drop, and that was wrong big time. First off it didn't have any spring in the suspension, which made me very cautious, thinking they where right. then when I ran the track, and could smell burning rubber, I knew they where right. If you drop the center 3 inches the little wheels are not what keeps the track from rubbing on the front shock, it is the front shock. I have since moved the center mount all the way back up to the stock hole, and it works awsome now. I actually had to add my transfer rod spacers, to get the suspension to soften up some. With out Ding and Rules even ?'ing it, I would have just dropped it down and tore off across the lawn with it, and probabbly wore a grove in my new track. So thanks for the heads up guys, probabbly saved my season. I may try and go 1.5 inch drop, but for now it rides nice as is. So thanks for the good eye guys. Maxdlx
 
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post new pics, thinking about droppin the rear on my offtrail viper... rather learn from other's mistakes than make my own LOL! thanks for the update and giving props to those who deserve it. that's what makes this site awesome! ski
 
Heres the new pics

Ski,
The rear brakets that Bruce at CB Perf made me really make it easy. I am going to ride it this way for a bit, and go from there. It does make a clicking noise when the clips hit the rails, but they hit back aways from the tips. i may loosen the track some more and see if it helps. I only have about 1 inch of free hang right now. Maybe the extro's make the click too, not sure. Maxdlx
 

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maybe i was right! http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...asurements+drop





Why the ! go start drilling holes in your sled and figure it out then. I have been trying to figure this out for everyone, not just me. I took the time to draw up the drop braket, and spend my time and minutes on the phone with Bruce, trying to get something that would bennifit everyone who wants it. Bruce went out of his way to help me design and make the brakets. Then I took more time and effort to find and fix any small details I over looked in the begining. I reposted this to help anyone else who might be thinking of doing this, and damn near deleted it just now. But I will leave it up in case anyone else needs the info, including you. I think 1.625 would still allow the track to rub the front shock. I rechecked to see if I might drop it, and I could only drop maybe 1,25 inches. If you dropped the front then maybe you could drop the center more. If you stayed with 9 tooth drivers it would make a difference too on the drop amount, but not much. I had to drop the rear some to allow for a 1.5 track, along with oversized top shaft ideler wheels, to allow 46prx ohlins shock. In the stock hole the track rubbed the tunnel. it may not work, but then again it may go like a stripped a$$ monkley too. I think it looks up high too because it is a 144 extension, and a 136 track. But I can go 144 easy enough know if I want too. I quess someone has to be the guinea pig for everyone else. Not the first time I have had unneeded holes in a sled. LOL Maxdlx
Just a side notE, I AM NO EXPERT, NEVER CLAIMED TO BE, SO USE INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK
 
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maxdlx said:
maybe i was right! http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...asurements+drop





Why the ! go start drilling holes in your sled and figure it out then. I have been trying to figure this out for everyone, not just me. I took the time to draw up the drop braket, and spend my time and minutes on the phone with Bruce, trying to get something that would bennifit everyone who wants it. Bruce went out of his way to help me design and make the brakets. Then I took more time and effort to find and fix any small details I over looked in the begining. I reposted this to help anyone else who might be thinking of doing this, and damn near deleted it just now. But I will leave it up in case anyone else needs the info, including you. I think 1.625 would still allow the track to rub the front shock. I rechecked to see if I might drop it, and I could only drop maybe 1,25 inches. If you dropped the front then maybe you could drop the center more. If you stayed with 9 tooth drivers it would make a difference too on the drop amount, but not much. I had to drop the rear some to allow for a 1.5 track, along with oversized top shaft ideler wheels, to allow 46prx ohlins shock. In the stock hole the track rubbed the tunnel. it may not work, but then again it may go like a stripped a$$ monkley too. I think it looks up high too because it is a 144 extension, and a 136 track. But I can go 144 easy enough know if I want too. I quess someone has to be the guinea pig for everyone else. Not the first time I have had unneeded holes in a sled. LOL Maxdlx
Just a side notE, I AM NO EXPERT, NEVER CLAIMED TO BE, SO USE INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Click to expand...

i apologize if i came off like a know it all. im learning too. i came up with my measurements by keeping all the mounting holes in the same plane, i dont see how it would hit the front shock. everything is in the same place, just angled differently in the tunnel. im not sure if they are correct either. there seems to be little to no information on drop measurements, so it is kind of a hit or miss sometimes. i noticed people mentioning numerous times that the center needs to be dropped with the rear, where are those numbers? anyways the sled looks great and i appreciate the info!
 
Paul, Hell, it's gotta' be fast, it's goin' DOWNHILL HAHAHAHAAHAAA! Just jackin' ya around buddy. Hey, I got a seat coming. Picked it up from Freak. Somebody ordered it and never picked it up. SO, I did!!Black and red Highrise Widetop. Thats what you have right? We will be opposite twins so to speak LOL! Hope everything is going well with your October plans. Should see you then Brother!

Dave :Moon:
 
looks liek the kinks are coming out. and I agree with ski, things like this make this site the best online :) now if only we could get a gaurantee of snow with the VIP membership, I might give upo the stickers for that :)
 
Ironic
Take your center mount bolts out and start dropping it down, when the wheels are no longer supporting the track, and the rear holes are down 3.25 inches look and see what the track rests on. My center set of small wheels wheren't even touching the track. 9 tooth drivers may help hold it up some, but they won't work with a 1.5 track very well. I was by myself so the 1.25 drop could be up to maybe the 1.3 something you said, but you would want a tight track for that. Mines done for now other than adding the Rox treads, so let us know what you come up with.


Dave
I don't think mine is a wide top, but I have never looked at the 2 to compare. I do know that in stock form w/121 I could lean it up on its side with just my knees on the side of the seat. Right now I can't get 50/50 gap with me on the sled. I need to take some rear spring out of it. As far as Oct, everything is going great. Getting the jitters alittle, but I'm sure thats normal. After being together for 6 years, don't understand the jitters, but can't wait either. Maybe there will be snow on the ground, and we can test ride that day, if its allowed. LOL Paul
 
Give the sled to your best buddy....then buy a new one and let him figure out what the #$%&* is going on with that jacked suspension.

Dude, you saw me do this to my SxR and it didnt work, so why are you drillin into yours?? But hey if you get it figured out and it works....and um you can keep up with me then I will be asking questions how-to..hehe!

Good Luck!
 
It will work, it already does on the grass. LOL

I bet I can make yours work too, if set up right. You still have the brakets for the rear mounts.
 
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i lifted mine about 4 inches too, did you suspension get super stiff after the lift? mine sure did, i had to adjust the rear shock spring quite a bit before it softened up, also when you sit on your sled is it supposed to take up all the space in the transfer rods???
 
If it is taking up all of the space, then you don't have enough spring. Did you check to make sure the spring or shock isn't hitting something. Maxdlx
 
whats the sag on this? does anyone think that this thing is gonna plow? i am not bashing the theory but i know when i put in my m10 the viper did plow...it will be interesting to see how she handles... keep us posted...
 
i adjusted my center shock to the c position(stiff setting) the angle of the shock helped now i dont have a problem with sagging, but dang it is stiff now. ill try it out but might have to go back to stock. it does look nice though.
 
The M-10 is a complete different theroy than the pro action. You don't set sag on a proaction, but gap spacing. Sag really means nothing. I have my suspension set up the same as you would for an unaltered skid, and it actually pushes when you turn, thus not enough ski preasure. This is on grass, where it will normally grab better than snow. Think of it from a leverage stand point, if the rear travels more now than it did stock, with the extra leverage, the front end will actually work lighter than before. But thats just my theroy. We'll see I hope. Maxdlx


Yamiman post up some pics of yours. Did you drop the center mount any? Maxdlx
 
perhaps sag was not the correct verbage. with an angle like that you will have a lot of weight on the front skis. if you have access to a set of scales you will see what i mean...i will be surprised if you will be able to get that sled to handle correctly and maintain a decent speed
 
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