Track Change Question

Exciterfan

Exciterfan

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
423
Age
66
Location
West St. Paul, Manitoba Canada
I'm about to upgrade the track on my2001 SXR600 and I have a question relating to just how much I have to take a part to get the Drive shaft out. My Clymer manual seems to indicate that I can leave the chain case installed (less the gears and chain) and once I remove the PTO side drive shaft bearing I shpould be able to "remove the drive shaft". In my previous experience with my old Exciter, I had to remove the entire chain case and slide some of the drive wheels to the right just to be able to slide the shaft far enough to get it out. Also do you recommend that I change all of the bearing s while I have it a part? I was thinking of changing both of the bearings on the PTO side (Jack shaft & drive shaft) since they are not bathed in oil inside the chain case. If I don't have to remove thew chain case then I think I'll leave those bearings alone.

Anyone have specific experiencxe with an SXR? All advice is greatly appreciated. I want to minimize the time I spend on the garage floor wrestling with the machine.

Thanks in advance.

Exciterfan :yam:
 
Yes the chaincase must be completly removed to change the track. Yes change the speedo side bearing while you are in there. The worst part about the change out is the damn emergency brake. That will give you fitts. Other than that it is not that bad. Go after it and ask questions while you go. We will help you along. Pat
 
You don't have to completely remove i, just slide the chaincase and rotor out on the top shaft far enough to get the shaft out. Thats easier than removing the whole e brake assembly. Just watch for the key for the brake rotor. Maxdlx
 
it is an easy job to remove the chaincase. Good time to inspect the cahin case and clean it out while it is out of the machine.
Change the speedo side bearing while it is out. I changed my track last season and the entire job including cleaning out the chaincase took about 4 hours. Of course there were coffee and beer breaks included.
 
Track Change update!!!

Well here is the update.

I pulled the chaincase apart last might & removed the drive shaft without too much trouble. However.... (wait for it) the previous owner of the sled indicated that he had altered the gear ratio on the SXR600, and when I pull the chain case cover off, I was confronted witht the main drive gear bolt laying in the bottom!!!! Obviously he didn't tighten it enough or use locktite. The bolt punched a hole in the chaincase cover, but I should be able to get that welded up quite easily. The threads on the end of the bolt are messed up and I'm not sure about the condiditon of the threads inside the drive shaft. I'm hoping that with a little clean up work on the bolt and shaft that I can get the bolt in again. At the moment it won't thread in!!!

The jackshaft & drive shaft bearings in the chaincase were also toast, because the previous "mechanic" installed the bearings with one seal removed (which is a good idea) BUT he faced the open side of the bearing towards the track????? So these poor bearing just dried out an died. The bearing in the chaincase cover seems okay, but I'm tempted to replace it too since it's all apart. Any suggestions on how to remove the bearing from the cover???

My Clymer manual shows the bearings in the chaincase with the seals intact, but I plan on removing the iside seal on ther jackshaft & drive shaft bearing so it will get lubricated by the chain case gear lube. Correct? Should the bearing in the chaincase cover have one or both seals removed??

Now if I could only find the actual bearing part numbers so I could source replacements from someone other than Yamaha I'd be all set. Most bearing supply companies wnat to "look" at the old bearings and I didn't bring them with me to work today.

BTW any suggestions on the gear ratio for the SXR600??

I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Cheers,

Len
 
Sounds like it was a good thing you decided to swap out the track! You wouldn't have lasted long with that bolt banging around in there!!

I'm about to swap out the track on my VMax 600 twin so I'll be watching this thread with interest.

'Foul
 
The threads on the bolt are probably just smashed from rattling around in the chaincase..get a new bolt and chase the threads in the axle with a tap.

The bearing numbers are stamped on the bearing..I've never had one in the cover fail. I'd give it a thorough check before replacing it. If do want to get it out, I think you may need a small slide hammer...unless someone has a better idea or a special tool...

It sounds like you're well on your way..my brother had great luck with the 2 6's he had...gave my XTC7 fits!!
 
Leave the seals on the bearing - they'll last longer that way, there gets to be some pretty serious contamination in the gear case lube - that's the reason the put magnets on the dip sticks .....

My buddies 2000 sxR has 7960 miles on it, all the bearings are original, and I'm 90% sure they'll all be replaced when it goes back together....

Good luck - I've got two to put back together yet this fall as well. Beer DOES help!!
 
Track CHange update

Well I've got the drive shaft back in with the new drive bearing, but can't put the chaincase back in until I source the jack shaft bearing (early next week). Other than welding up the hole in the chain case, it's ready to go back in. I did remove the seals on the chain case bearings, but I could easily put them back in. Any other comments on this??? My old Exciter had them removed.

The old track I removed seemed to have a lot of wear from the front heat exchanger protectors (and it was the stock 0.75" track ????). Since I'm putting on a 1" camoplast, I was very concerned with the amount of clearance between the protectors and the track lugs. It was looking like it would be almost zero. So... I made the management decision and removed the protectors because I really have no plans to every add studs to this sled/track. Any concerns out there on this decision?

If I have to, I might consider modifying the protectors so that they are not quite as thick and put them back on at a later date.

I certainly appreciate everyones advice and wisdom.

Cheers,

ExciterFan :yam:
 
If you are sure you are never going to stud it, then go ahead and remove the protectors. As for the seals on the chaincase bearings, i have always ran them with no seal on the inside of the chaincase, and sealed on the back. I see nothing wrong with this if you change your chaincase oil as much as you should (no more than every 1,000 miles or so). I change it before every big trip because we usually put on over 300 miles a day. On my srx, the seals are reversed. It is sealed on the chaincase side, and open on the back. There was an article in the "Dear Ralph" section of snowtech within the past couple years on this, and some people ran them this way. I forget their complete reasoning, but some of it was that the chaincase oil does get very gritty if not changed like it should be, or if the chain is too loose or tight, etc, and that having the seal off on the backside allows any debris in the bearing to fall out of the way. The other thing you could do is leave both seals on. The bearing is greased when new anyone, it is in a fairly protected environment so the seals shouldn't get damaged very easily either. I guess if you change your chaincase oil enough though, I would probably just run them the conventional way, with no seal on the inside, but sealed on the back.
 
I have removed bearings in dirt bike cases by placing the case in the oven at 250f. Get it hot then give case a slight tap on the bench and bearing fell out. Should work on a chain case cover also as the cover will expand quicker then the bearing.
 
Well here is the final word on the Track Change. New camoplast is installed and the rear skid is back in with all of the shocks revalved. If you are riding with stock shocks (even the upgraded ones) I would recommend that you take yours to someone who really KNOWS shocks. Yamaha valves the KYBs UNBELIEVABLY hard. I couldn't believe the numbers of valve washers in there!!! My good friend Jim Bouwman of Bouwman enterprises here in Winnipeg, Manitoba pulled mine apart, and we revalved them with less washers and even put in a little "progressive" valving (like Arctic Cat) for the smaller bumps. The ski shocks started out with NINE washers on each side of the valve body and now has seven. However the the seven are actually configured as 2+smaller diameter single + 5. This alows the first 2 to act in the smaller bumps, but alows all seven to take up the force of the big bumps. Jim did this to my 87 Exciter (which was modifed for FOX shocks) and it rode BETTER than the 2001 SXR600 with the stock valving (too hard). Did the rear skid shocks in a similar manner. Can't wait for snow now!!!

I'm going to start a new thread re: removing the needle valve in the Mikuni Flat slides. I'm stumped????

Cheers,

ExciterFan :yam: :rocks:
 
Good to hear you got er done and you are happy with it.
There a trade off to a nice soft suspension and the is HP.
The softer the ride the more HP is lossed is the suspension.
I kinda like the tighter ride and more transfer and HP to the ground.
 
i just put a 136 on my sxr and had to go through the whole chaincase removal and i thought it was easy... the only question im wondering is how tight does that bottom gear go onto the drive shaft because it seems as if there is about an 1/8th inch gap between the threaded shaft and the bolt but i can't get the gear to slide any further down.. (i know it sounds kinda confusing but if you just did it you might know what im talking about)... so what im really wondering is does that larger bottom gear mount flush on the shaft or is there a little gap??? hope someone understands this question... thanks alot..
 
the bottom gear sticks out past the end of the shaft a little bit, the bolt does not bottom out against the shaft.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top