Clutching for dummies

kinger

kinger

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Nov 12, 2004
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Location
Clear Lake, IA
I'm sorry guys I am a dummy whe it comes to clutching. I have a stock 02 viper that was purchased with a fix powersports clutch kit and CAI kit on it and I can't get any specs on what it is. It supposedly thier best kit and all I was told is that I'll get 1-2 sled lengths out of it or some crap. Instead I got a 8900 rpm rev all winter which we all know is too high and robbing me of some powa.

I was going to go piped this year but decided against but I ended up with a set of 8DN20 weights and a green primary spring and Y-W-Y secondary spring

Can anyone help a dummy get this sled clutched properly? What exact parts should I get and is there a how to guide on pulling the clutch off and doing these mods? Do I need a clutch puller?

I do have the service manuals and will start studying those throughly. Thanks for the help!!!!
 
Ok been doing more research and some things are starting to make sense, looks like this article is what I needed to get my clutch off, and I just need to get a puller:

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/clutch_components.htm

Searching some old posts and reviewing the specs on the tech area here is the set up I'm thinking for my stock 02 viper with CAI from Fix and 192 studs and i weigh around 230-240 fully dressed:

8DN-20's 3.6g in mid and 4.5 in tip
Green secondary spring
51-43 helix or something close

Thoughts? Thanks!

PS Really dumb question I have a weight removal tool but how do you peen the new rivets into place? The 8DN20's I have have the wrong weights so they will need to be removed and replaced with the above weights if that is wht you guys will think is best.
 
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those rivets might be a little heavy for the viper to pull. What rivets do you have in the 20's right now? They might just work. Try it before you go drilling them out and putting new ones in. That helix should work good for you with a green sec. spring.
 
You shouldn't need a puller. Infact, you shouldn't actually need to take off the whole clutch. Just a little trick is you can take the clutch cover off and push the sliding sheave all the way to the fully engaged point. Your weights should be exposed enough to remove, change rivets, and change the spring if you so choose. This is just the way i did it because i didn't have a puller. Unless the spring is a lot stiffer or longer than stock, you should be able to get the cover back on with a bit of pushing and tightening up the bolts evenly to get it started.
 
There was a 4.5g in there and 10.3mm steel, it was set up for a mountain sled, what rivets would you reccomend and how do you peen them in?

What degree twist on the secondary do you reccomend 60 deg to start?

Leave the stock sized rollers?

Thanks!
 
The stock viper rollers will make those 8DN-20's seem even heavier. I would probably go with bigger rollers, 15.6's or something instead of the 14.5s. I would start at about 60* on the sec. As for the rivets, try it the way it is because you can't make a very accurate guess until you run it and see how yours responds, especially with roller changes and different secondary spring, etc. If you do find that you have to change the rivets, you can either drill them out or grind the heads off and pound them through. Either way, you have to be very careful as to not take material off of the weight itself. To peen the new ones, just put it on a hard surface and pound the tops of the rivets until they mushroom and won't fall out.
 
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Thanks for the help, I was sort of hoping that there may be a recipe that seemed to work good for people, I know it will need minor adjustments later, but wondering if there is a set up that seems to OK. Those larger rollers are $33 ea and you need 3 of them? Think they are that necessary?
 
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