cant get sled to run right!!

Yes, it sounds like when the airbox was manuevered in and out the throttle cable may have been pulled tight and pulled out of place at the throttle lever or the carbs. The TORS was doing its job and limiting the RPM. If you turned the idle screw all the way down as stated, the RPMs would be increased, -may have turned the wrong thing such as the throttle shaft balance screw which may be why it won't run right now. The idle speed adjuster is normally a small white plastic wheel located near where the cable connects.
 
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That sled should fire all three coils at the same time (3 times per revolution), so it shouldn't matter if you mix then up even if you could. You can use propane, starting fluid, or carb cleaner to test for air leaks. Just be careful with flammable stuff, and stuff that will eat plastics. Did you reconnect the TORS leads to themselves after disconnecting? As stated above, are you sure which screw you turned? Which way did you turn it? Check all of the cables to be sure that the cable housing is seated properly on both ends and at the junctions. Wiggle the wiring, cables, and anything that is loose, to see if it changes anything while running. If you still can't find it, I would get your electric tester out, or find someone to help you if you are not familiar with electrics.
 
With 3 seperate coils, it should only fire 1 coil at a time. The Polaris triples with 1 coil have 3 sparks per revolution which is why they sometimes backfire when starting.
 
i connected the two wires that go to the TORS. I adjusted the cable and didnt seem to make a difference. I turned the screw out that is at the center of all three carbs, which looks like it controls the idle(right behind the tors).I will play with the throttle cable tommorrow when i get off work. The choke plungers are returning back to closed position. The only thing i dont get if it was a pulled cable, why doesnt it gain rpm when i give it throttle?I really appreciate the help guys, its people like you that make this forum great ;)!
 
let us know what you find. I really thought the TORS was it.
If it was running ok before and you checked for spark in each cylinder make sure you have no air leaks at the carbs...good luck and dont forget to let us know your findings.
 
Check to make sure you didn't pull the carbs away from the intake boots. look around the bottoms of the carbs. double check the tors adjustment. like ding said it can't be the timming, you can swap any of the wires it will still run fine. you may want to pull the airbox back off and make sure the slides are all droping.
 
hey guys, in think i got it figured out. The throttle cable was pulled out,( it looked like it was all the way in) i pushed it in with my hands but i had to use a pliers to pop it back it back in. :D:DP The TORS was doing its job to keep it from reving. Got it to run halfway decent now, but the only problem now is when it warms up it wont idle down, When i hit the throttle and let off,it stays at 4k and very slowly idles down.
I am going to clean the carbs and put fresh gas in it this weekend and see if that helps. :WayCool:
 
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opening up the fuel screws 1/4 turn will help it idle down, the high idle is caused by a lean spot in the idle circuit. But before changing the fuel screws, clean the carbs and get fresh fuel in there, because bad fuel and dirty carbs can make running quality all different and inconsistent.
 
check the boots on the carbs and the airbox,make sure they are seated,this will give you a lean mixture if there is air being sucked in,check the boot to be sure,take out all the variables....
 
the temperature would not have that effect on your sled. You are on the right track by cleaning your carbs and checking the carb boots.
 
temp could have an effect but it would be going the wrong way. Being warm out would richen the mixture, not make it leaner.
 
Yamahaulic temperature would have an effect riding about but just to leave it idle should not have that kind of effect. I start mine up during the summer 85 degrees and it idles great. Of course jetting is not optimum for that but should still idels and yes it will be richer.
 
well yes i didn't mean that it wouldn't idle, i simply meant that at those temps it will definately run richer than optimal with anything near stock jetting and pilots. If he pulled out the plugs i'm sure they would be pretty black. I know that when i start my sleds in summer they idle fine too, but those plugs are blacker than coal when i pull them out. I know that sometimes idling on very cold mornings the sleds have a very tough time idling down without the use of the choke, because the lean spot is even greater because the carbs will act leaner with such cold intake temps. Just clearing things up a bit. ;)!
 
alright thanks again guys, I figured that the warmer it was the richer it ran, but i thought i would throw that variable out there. I will put new gas in, clean the carbs, and put new plugs in and see how it runs. Should i still turn the fuel screws 1/4 turn out for more fuel, or is there an air screw i can turn in while i have the carbs out?
 
Just the fuel screws on those carbs. On your belt guard its called an air pilot screw.

Stock setting is 1.5 turns out.

You just may want to check them while you have the carbs off. Just to make sure where they are at. You cant get to them when they are mounted. Turn the carbs over and you will see them.

I have mine set at two turns out but I have PSI pipes on mine.

Tod
 
clean and replace fuel before making any adjustments. Make really sure your carb boots are on properly and not split.
The ones on the airbox side can sometimes crack open which causes a very lean mixture then the machine goes BANG.
When cleaning carbs make sure the jets are well cleaned and not plugged.
Let us know how things turn out.
 
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