yamaracer18
New member
anyone know how to adjust the rear suspension on a 02 viper i want it to hook a little better on take off and jump the skis off the line. so i guess i want the transfer to increase maybe
yamaholic22
Active member
Do you have transfer rods? They definately make a big difference in transfer, and allow you another point of adjustment of your ride. Another thing to help transfer is tightening the center spring and loosening the limiter straps. Also obviously a good track and studs for the application will greatly improve acceleration, the stock yamaha/yokohama tracks leave a lot on the table in the acceleration category.
yamaracer18
New member
i got what ever the stock suspension comes with
yamaholic22
Active member
ok then you definately want to get a set of aftermarket transfer rods from someone like bender racing, hauck performance, maxximum performance, etc., and do as i said in the previous post.
yamvip
New member
Limiter straps loose,front shock,tight,and get your self a set of adjustable transfer rods,and a rip saw track
VMAX535
New member
Transfer Rods
The 02 Viper came with adjustable transfer rods. They may not be as quick of an adjustment as the new T3 but they are there and they a will adjust. Aftermarket ones are around $200.00.
The 02 Viper Skid also came with a factory update at your cost to help make it ride a bit softer!?? Contact dealer for details Spring rates or something.
The 02 Viper came with adjustable transfer rods. They may not be as quick of an adjustment as the new T3 but they are there and they a will adjust. Aftermarket ones are around $200.00.
The 02 Viper Skid also came with a factory update at your cost to help make it ride a bit softer!?? Contact dealer for details Spring rates or something.
taped throttle
Member
you can just buy quick nuts from maxx. perf. $49.95. they are hand adjustable, very easy to use on the trail or when racing. part#VP-QCKNUT. you may be able to get from other shops besides maxx, but i know they have them.
Viper comes stock with adjustable control (transfer) rods, although they do not adjust as far as some of the aftermarket ones do. I feel that Yamaha did this to limit the potential of damaging other components.
The total gap (top and bottom) at the control rods is the amount of "uncoupled" travel allowed. Uncoupled travel is where either the front or the back of the skid can move independently of the other.
Focusing solely on weight transfer . . .
With the sled seat weighted down with normal driving weight, more gap on top allows for more weight transfer under acceleration and more gap on bottom allows the front to lift more before starting to transfer weight. Under acceleration, the gap should be first all on top, and then switch immediately to the bottom as soon as weight transfer occurs.
The limiter straps are just that, they put a hard limit on how far the front of the skid is allowed to drop, and thus how far the skis will lift under acceleration. Adjusted too loose, and the skis will lift too much and you will go slower, adjusted too tight they will hinder weight transfer altogether, and you will also go slower.
Start with a conservative setting as mentioned above, and then test, make a single change, test, repeat until you get the feel of it. While I have learned to only make one change at a time, I have also learned that it usually takes a couple changes together to get the desired effect. The test in the middle just helps me "feel" what that one change does. What I am trying to say, is that in making just the one change, it may not give the desired effect until the other changes are also made, but if I make them all at once I have no idea what is happening individually when it doesn't work.
The total gap (top and bottom) at the control rods is the amount of "uncoupled" travel allowed. Uncoupled travel is where either the front or the back of the skid can move independently of the other.
Focusing solely on weight transfer . . .
With the sled seat weighted down with normal driving weight, more gap on top allows for more weight transfer under acceleration and more gap on bottom allows the front to lift more before starting to transfer weight. Under acceleration, the gap should be first all on top, and then switch immediately to the bottom as soon as weight transfer occurs.
The limiter straps are just that, they put a hard limit on how far the front of the skid is allowed to drop, and thus how far the skis will lift under acceleration. Adjusted too loose, and the skis will lift too much and you will go slower, adjusted too tight they will hinder weight transfer altogether, and you will also go slower.
Start with a conservative setting as mentioned above, and then test, make a single change, test, repeat until you get the feel of it. While I have learned to only make one change at a time, I have also learned that it usually takes a couple changes together to get the desired effect. The test in the middle just helps me "feel" what that one change does. What I am trying to say, is that in making just the one change, it may not give the desired effect until the other changes are also made, but if I make them all at once I have no idea what is happening individually when it doesn't work.
VMAX535
New member
Man get laid or something
Your post may be accurate. But off the wall.
/Dan
Your post may be accurate. But off the wall.
/Dan
Sorry . . .
I may be old, but I am slow . . .
I did attempt to focus . . . Does that count?
I may be old, but I am slow . . .
I did attempt to focus . . . Does that count?
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VMAX535
New member
yah, it does1 I look forward to our future banter......
V535
V535
Does anyone know what the best spring setup are on a Viper? My front end sags too much. I have the updated shocks. My skids is couples too soon.
yamaholic22
Active member
crank your center spring all the way on the vipers. Everyone questions me on this...until they do it. Has much more resistance before the front arm couples to the rear to allow for some dampening before the really heavy (stiff as hell) dampening begins. You will also get better transfer because the front of the skid is planted harder. This will also allow you to crank your front preloads more because there will be less ski pressure on the front, so you can crank those up some to get your ski pressure back and raise the front if you think its too low.
VIPER-D
New member
Get rid of the stock suspension and get a expert X and a camo predetor 1" track and it will pull like a freight train!!!!!! All so pipes you will be so happy if you do that you wont beable to get your helmet off becuse your grin will be to BIG !!!
n2oiroc
New member
i looked into it a bit and found that a 2.3kg mm center spring is a good cheap improvement in ride quality.