VmaxSx600
New member
Would it be a good idea to get a 1.25 or 1.50 track on my sx? will i lose any power? will it climb better and all around make it better?
Track
- Thread starter VmaxSx600
- Start date
Cuzino19
New member
1. Yes, in general, taller lug tracks will decrease top speed, everything is a trade off, but if you ride mostly offtrail conditions then it probably doesn't matter very much
2.Taller lugs will not "dig" the machine down anymore than short lugs on a short track, the taller lugs WILL help with forward movement in deep snow. That being said, taller lugs do nothing for floation, they will not help you stay up, they will only help you move forward. If you get too deep and the snow is too soft, you will still sink. To help in this department you need a longer (or a wider 16" skidoo) track to help you stay on top of the snow. Taller lugs and longer tracks kind of go hand in hand. With a long track with no lugs, you won't have any bite to keep moving, but you will have floatation. With a short track with huge lugs you will have forward bite and not so much floatation. Short tracks turn a little bit better than longer tracks. The longer the track the harder it is to maneuver in general. Again, everything is a trade off.
3. I dont believe anybody could test in tight enough conditions to notice any difference in a short track compared to a long track based solely on track speed. It would take very highly controlled conditions and accurate measurements to even detect the difference in track wear in good snow conditions. Track wear depends MUCH more heavily on the conditions it is being used in, and what the rider is doing to it. Contrary to popular belief, punching it across roads DOES not aid in track life (this would seem hard to belief watching a lot of people out on the trails).
4. I had a 1.5" track on my SRX, and it worked MUCH better than a standard lug track in the deep stuff, but i took it off because the majority of my time is spent on groomed trails, so i was having problems with lug durability and hyfax wear, and also wanted the ability to run studs for icy conditions and lakes/rivers. If i rode the majority of the time in loose conditions and offtrail, i would have kept the 1.5" track on for sure. It just didn't suit my conditions very well.
5. Just keep in mind that everything is a trade off, and get a track that suits your riding style, not what everybody tells you they would like. In the scheme of things, YOU will be the one who likes or dislikes the track you put on, doesn't affect anyone else, so do what suits you best.
Yamaholic22 posted this just 3 days ago man, should do a search first...
2.Taller lugs will not "dig" the machine down anymore than short lugs on a short track, the taller lugs WILL help with forward movement in deep snow. That being said, taller lugs do nothing for floation, they will not help you stay up, they will only help you move forward. If you get too deep and the snow is too soft, you will still sink. To help in this department you need a longer (or a wider 16" skidoo) track to help you stay on top of the snow. Taller lugs and longer tracks kind of go hand in hand. With a long track with no lugs, you won't have any bite to keep moving, but you will have floatation. With a short track with huge lugs you will have forward bite and not so much floatation. Short tracks turn a little bit better than longer tracks. The longer the track the harder it is to maneuver in general. Again, everything is a trade off.
3. I dont believe anybody could test in tight enough conditions to notice any difference in a short track compared to a long track based solely on track speed. It would take very highly controlled conditions and accurate measurements to even detect the difference in track wear in good snow conditions. Track wear depends MUCH more heavily on the conditions it is being used in, and what the rider is doing to it. Contrary to popular belief, punching it across roads DOES not aid in track life (this would seem hard to belief watching a lot of people out on the trails).
4. I had a 1.5" track on my SRX, and it worked MUCH better than a standard lug track in the deep stuff, but i took it off because the majority of my time is spent on groomed trails, so i was having problems with lug durability and hyfax wear, and also wanted the ability to run studs for icy conditions and lakes/rivers. If i rode the majority of the time in loose conditions and offtrail, i would have kept the 1.5" track on for sure. It just didn't suit my conditions very well.
5. Just keep in mind that everything is a trade off, and get a track that suits your riding style, not what everybody tells you they would like. In the scheme of things, YOU will be the one who likes or dislikes the track you put on, doesn't affect anyone else, so do what suits you best.
Yamaholic22 posted this just 3 days ago man, should do a search first...
V-Maximum
New member
I installed a 1.25" ripsaw on my 500 vmax It simply made the sled faster in everyway.Starting out of the hole is comparable to a studded track but with less weight. If I was buying a track for my sled though I'd like to try the new one they have with the stud built in with the lug im not sure on the name but I know its made by Camoplast. Also I think 1.25" lug is plenty after all thats what comes on the 150-HP Apex.
VmaxSx600
New member
alright thanks for the help
yamaholic22
Active member
The camo track that is ripsaw style with the studs in the lugs is called the ice ripper. The style that has the studs in the finger type lugs is called the ice claw.
VmaxSx600
New member
i really wanna get a ripsaw 1.25 or 1.50 but there alot how cheap have you guys seen them new? is it in the chrismas present range haha
seanmurphy26
New member
346 shipped to my door from bruce a cb performance
yamaholic22
Active member
yea you will pay at least 340 to get a new ripsaw shipped
ThePunisher
New member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2005
- Messages
- 24
You might run into clearance issues with a 1.5" track.
I am in the process of stretching my 97 600 sx to 136", and I am going to stay with a 1.25" ripsaw...that way I don't have to drop down to 8 tooth drivers.
Have a buddy with a 97 700 sx, he went to a 1.25 ripsaw last year and the difference in traction over the stock track is night and day.
Up in Canada, a 1.25" x 121" ripsaw goes for anywhere between $395 - $550 depending on who you buy from and what time of year.
Jim
I am in the process of stretching my 97 600 sx to 136", and I am going to stay with a 1.25" ripsaw...that way I don't have to drop down to 8 tooth drivers.
Have a buddy with a 97 700 sx, he went to a 1.25 ripsaw last year and the difference in traction over the stock track is night and day.
Up in Canada, a 1.25" x 121" ripsaw goes for anywhere between $395 - $550 depending on who you buy from and what time of year.
Jim
yamaholic22
Active member
you can run a 1.5" with 9 tooth drivers no problem, just have to remove the tunnel and heat exchanger protectors, no big deal at all if you dont want to run studs.
VmaxSx600
New member
alright how cheap do you all think i could get a 1.5 ?
yamaholic22
Active member
PM richierich, 2000srx, and port-parts
n2oiroc
New member
if a new track is out of the budget, try snowest. there are always a ton of nice used tracks cheap.
VmaxSx600
New member
well parents say bout 250 for chrismas so if i find one for that ill be happy enough but would it be worth it to get one, because next year im gettin my dads viper i thikn
sledlife
New member
I just installed a 1.5 Ripsaw on my 97 VMAX 600 with the 9 tooth drivers. It does fit but it is tight. If I were to do it again I would probably drop a tooth to get a little more clearence. I have about 1/4 - 3/8" clearence right now.
It is definetly worth it though, and if you are going to do it go with the 1.5 instead of the 1.25.
It is definetly worth it though, and if you are going to do it go with the 1.5 instead of the 1.25.
VmaxSx600
New member
alright thanks everyone i havent decided yet
SRX M10
New member
I just got a 1.25 camo iceripper from tracksusa.com and it was $469.00 + $20 for shipping. I don't know if it is going to clear my front protectors or not. If it doesn't, I think I am going to pull the protectors instead of notch the track. I ride in Vt and studs are a must, but I also wanted a fairly tall lug. The iceripper seems like a good compromise instead of the 8 tooth driver/chaincase conversion which is very expensive for my 01 srx.