yamyrider
Active member
I understand that less rolling drag means more speed but would this really make a difference for general riding. I ride trials and lakes and enter radar runs about 2 or 3 times a season.
I can get the 7.5 aluminum rears and the polaris 5.35 fronts.
Will this only make some difference in top end.
I can get the 7.5 aluminum rears and the polaris 5.35 fronts.
Will this only make some difference in top end.
n2oiroc
New member
i would run the polaris wheels, but the rears arent worth it. i wouldnt expect anything for gains with the rears.
*99sRx700*
New member
run the polaris wheels for sure. I put them on my sled this year, and she sets off the hifax abit now, shoudl help save em alot
yamyrider
Active member
other then saving the hyfax what could I expect for the 4 front wheels.
thanks.
thanks.
n2oiroc
New member
it will roll easier and perhaps get a little better mileage (couple tenths maybe). as far as speed gains, i really dont know. not much.yamyrider said:
change_up
New member
I've heard that a couple people change to 8" rears to add a few miles/hr, not much, but a little. The most common thing i have heard of though is people changing their 6" m-10 rears to 8" to get the 5mph back on top end.
You all putting polaris parts on a yami just kills me. 
I had baught a clutch kit once. The dealer said he put polaris weights in it and I made him take it all back apart again. There isn't no way I would ever do that. I'll deal with going 1 mph slower. lol I know, I'm crazy that way.
1CS
I had baught a clutch kit once. The dealer said he put polaris weights in it and I made him take it all back apart again. There isn't no way I would ever do that. I'll deal with going 1 mph slower. lol I know, I'm crazy that way.
1CS
sxviper32
New member
haha, man ya gotta let that stuff go!!! its all good, its 99% yammi and 1% mutt, thats all!!! haha
sxviper32 said:
I hear ya. Maybe someday I'll get over it.
lolYamirider,
By the way, to answere your question. I have heard that if you go with the billet spoked ones, they get dinged up real fast especialy on the trail. They also fill with snow and freeze, or something like that. The stock Yami rear wheels are about 7-7.5" anyways, so a half inch probably wont do much for you. The smaller wheels sound like a good idea though to reduce wear on the slides. What ever you decide to do, good luck.
1CS
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ModMMax
New member
Fabcraft at www.fabcraft.com make a composite wheel that is supposed to have a little flex to it and not ice up. I'm goin to try a set on the rear.
ModMMax said:
I ordered mine last week, I'll keep everyone posted on how they work out.
I don’t know the diameter of the Yami rear idler wheels but, if the Polaris wheels are larger in diameter you may get some benefit from them at top end. Here’s why – with a larger diameter wheel the track will have to flex less as it ‘rounds’ the wheel. When a track flex’s it take energy to compress the material on the inside of the track and put the material at the outside of the track in tension. This energy comes from someplace and that some place is the engine via the transmission/chain case/ drive shaft & sprockets. By going to a larger diameter wheel the track does not have to flex as much thereby reducing the energy consumed from the engine to make it ‘round’ the wheel making that small amount of energy available to rocket your sled down the track/lake/trail. Reducing the rolling friction of your idler wheel bearings also improves top end along with squaring the drive shaft to the back of the bulk head (only after having the drive shaft straightened and the drive wheels turned true to the drive shaft) aligning the jack shaft to the back of the bulk head also (only after having it straightened), aligning the rear suspension to the aligned drive shaft and aligning the clutches properly. Let me see is there anything else to align???? Oh yeah, align the skis to the track and set them at 1/8” toe out.
I did all this with my stock ’99 SX (tore it apart just to see how it was put together) and picked up about 6.5 mph at top end. After some clutching and minor engine/exhaust mods I picked up another 5 mph
Mills
I did all this with my stock ’99 SX (tore it apart just to see how it was put together) and picked up about 6.5 mph at top end. After some clutching and minor engine/exhaust mods I picked up another 5 mph
Mills
yamyrider
Active member
hey Mills you are making a lot of sense but alot of work as well.
There is a guy that I heard of near me that takes sleds apart and does a complete alignment of the chassis, drive shaft, rear suspension, track and so on. I have only heard guys say that by the time he is done you can almost turn the track with one fingure and very little effort. He eliminates alot of rolling drag by making sure that it is TRUE straight aligned. The more drag there is the more energy is consumed by the drag.
He showed me one trick before doing a radar run put dish soap on the slides. There was one brand that he prefered but I can remember. This gave him a couple more MPH.
There is a guy that I heard of near me that takes sleds apart and does a complete alignment of the chassis, drive shaft, rear suspension, track and so on. I have only heard guys say that by the time he is done you can almost turn the track with one fingure and very little effort. He eliminates alot of rolling drag by making sure that it is TRUE straight aligned. The more drag there is the more energy is consumed by the drag.
He showed me one trick before doing a radar run put dish soap on the slides. There was one brand that he prefered but I can remember. This gave him a couple more MPH.
bluewho
Active member
i can honestly say i saw 5 to 7 km more on the big dial with 8' wheels and 8 5.35 pol wheels.thats a srx showing 195 and clocking at 116 mph to being able to bury the needle.trueing the gears for proper alignment with the chain is importent for the push with your finger test.but at a idle if the brake shoes are opened up a little she moves freely.you could try that at a radar run being carful to pump them to stop.budy used to drill the slides and spay teflon from the back with the sled lifted.but with the bigger wheels your slides will be a quarter inch higher than your track so you wont have to change them mutch any more.small bearings on the top shock mounts help with rolling resestance on the fly as well. these are the alcona rears same company that makes the truck rims and yes the do ice up and looks like i have ice hubcaps when they do.
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bufalobob
Member
stock yamaha rear wheels are all you need for trail riding & radar runs. never noticed any difference in speed between the 7" & 8" rears. as far as squaring the chassis is concerned, it's basically a waste of time. post '97 yamaha's are spot on from the factory. want to go fast - get the track off the hyfax. use pre '97 hyfax. thinner & cheaper than buying bigger rail wheels - just needs to be shortened. lots of other secrets also.
bob
bob
yamyrider
Active member
lets hear more.
I seen the older hyfax and they are much thinner but I was not sure if I could use it.
Hey Bob you help out someone I know at the North Bay racing last year (I think) He was racing and was having belt probelms...you took a measurement from his machine and gave him a belt to run his race. He said it was the best time and speed he ever had. He owns a Yamaha dealer in Sturgeon Falls not to far from North Bay. He said you have a million tricks.
I seen the older hyfax and they are much thinner but I was not sure if I could use it.
Hey Bob you help out someone I know at the North Bay racing last year (I think) He was racing and was having belt probelms...you took a measurement from his machine and gave him a belt to run his race. He said it was the best time and speed he ever had. He owns a Yamaha dealer in Sturgeon Falls not to far from North Bay. He said you have a million tricks.