Changing the track, what's the first step in disassembly?

Waterfoul

Waterfoul

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Grand Rapids, MI
My experienced help (Pat, aka spartasrx here on TY) is off deer hunting all week and I thought I'd at least get started on my track swap. Getting things apart is easy!!

So, my thought is that the skid needs to come out first... right?? This I know how to do from changing the shocks and putting in the tunnel protectors last year.

Then the secondary clutch so it's out of the way... then the speedo housing hookup thing behind the secondary clutch.... from there I would be in way over my head without help. But I'd like to get as far as I can before Pat comes over to help put the new track on.

I have the shaft bearing and have ordered a speedo keyway (my speedo quit working last trip out last season). I also have the bushing set for the bogey wheels... might as well change them too.

Anything else I should know? Like I said, I just wanna get a good start on this.

Mike
 
yup get that suspension out, pull the secondary, pull the speedo drive, loosen the set screws on the speedo side bearing. Pull the cover on the chaincase to drain the fluid and remove the tensioner, chain, and gears, disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper, take off the service (hydraulic) brake caliper by removing the two 12mm bolts above the chaincase, loosen the 4 14mm bolts holding the chaincase in. Then when he gets there you can pull off the chaincase, jockey the driveshaft out, pull off the old track and throw on the new one, and reverse everything i just said.
 
wooo,woooo,wooooooooo..........The first step of any project like this is to open an ice cold beer.Come on people,thats the most important step!!!
 
Like yamaholic said but i dont have to take the brake caliper off on my viper. There is just enough slack that i can pull the assembly off (tight but can be done). oh and watch out for the key on the top shaft.
 
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Just be careful as you pull the chaincase off along with the rotor you dont loose the key way that goes on the jackshaft.
 
blueblooded said:
wooo,woooo,wooooooooo..........The first step of any project like this is to open an ice cold beer.Come on people,thats the most important step!!!
Click to expand...

OMG how could i forget about the beer? Get out that "Donkey" stamp again for my forehead. ;):D
 
if it doesnt have the quad drivers you dont have to remove the chaincase. i didnt have to on my sxr. it only has the 2 centre drivers stock from factory and i put a ripsaw on it last season. might be only the tripples that have the quad drivers.
 
Buy yourself a manual it is the best thing you can do also check the tech section on this site there is a ton of info in that section
 
First off... If your helper is good the extra time you save him by taking it apart without him there, will be lost when he has to re-assemble something he didn't take apart .... that is always hard to do and should be avoided at all cost.

Just did a complete set of bearings on my Vmax. And if you are just swaping the track, do not remove the chaincase it isn't necessary on your sled.

The whole procedure should take around 4 hours if you have help and are changing out all the idler and axle bearings.

It is easier than it loooks, just pay attention to what you take apart.

P.S. don't remove chaincase cover to drain it as suggested earlier, use the drain plug inside the tunnel at the back of the case.... then remove the cover .. .saves a big mess....
 
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ski said:
First off... If your helper is good the extra time you save him by taking it apart without him there, will be lost when he has to re-assemble something he didn't take apart .... that is always hard to do and should be avoided at all cost.

Just did a complete set of bearings on my Vmax. And if you are just swaping the track, do not remove the chaincase it isn't necessary on your sled.

The whole procedure should take around 4 hours if you have help and are changing out all the idler and axle bearings.

It is easier than it loooks, just pay attention to what you take apart.

P.S. don't remove chaincase cover to drain it as suggested earlier, use the drain plug inside the tunnel at the back of the case.... then remove the cover .. .saves a big mess....
Click to expand...

I'm not worried about Pat (my help). I've had the skid out before... so that part isn't such a big deal... but will save US that much time when he makes it over to my house. As for taking any of the rest of it apart... I'm not sure if I will tackle that or not... some of it's easy... clutch, speedo housing, etc... but when it comes to the drivetrain, I think I'll leave that to Pat as he has done this several times.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

:rocks:
 
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