Need Help with changing Track

R

Red_RobbinHood

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Jul 13, 2005
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I am in the process of changing my track on my '02 viper. I have done all of the necessary leading up to removing the chain case housing from the sled. I have removed all the gears etc.. and have run into a problem trying to remove the chain case housing from the sled. There are 2 "shoes" for the parking braked that are keeping me from being able to easily slide the chain case housing from my sled. My question is it necessary to remove these springs etc. from the parking brake in order to give me the desired clearance to remove the chain case housing from the sled without the parking brake catching on the actual disc brake. I guess i need to know if this is necessary to remove the parking brake and if so an easy way to do this (if at all necessary). If anyone has performed this and can give me some insight i would apreciate it.

Thanks in Advance,

Paul W.
 

had the same problem on my srx. Ended up just taking the parking brake and components off all together. Made it much easier to get the chain case off. This is an option, but not sure if you wanna go that route. I couldnt figure out any other wya to get it off there, and it was making me mad, so it got removed ;)!
 
you do NOT need to remove the parking brake assembly from the chaincase. Just pull the brake disk off along with the chaincase, making sure that you don't lose the brake disk key (it is a keyed shaft). Hope that helps.
 
you dont have to remove the parking brake,thecaliper is sticking on the shaft.work it off with your hands pulling it towards you.or tap the hub to release it.than flip the coolant bottle bracket over the mount.i would put something under the front of track to take the wieght off the cogshaft or git some help as those bottom seals are easy to damage when the case slides off the end.
 
I changed my track as well I did'nt remove any part of the parking brake or springs I took the cover off the chaincase removed all the necessary gears etc and went from there, You dont have to take the rear of the chaincase housing off if thats what you are trying to do. I got step by step instructions off the sight that are very useful
 
let me clear that up, I wasnt saying you HAD to remove it, just couldnt find any other way thats all, sorry for the confusion!!!!
 
track replacement.

Take the guts out of the chaincase, then remove the lower bearing in the chaincase. That'll give you enough clearance to get the driveshaft slid over out out from the bottom. I used to remove all that stuff also until the mechanic at the local dealer told me this little trick! Good luck!

Viperlover
 
isn't lower bearing pressed in and out of the chaincase after you have removed the snap ring ?
 
As long as you take the tension off the springs first taking the E-brake off is easy. I would rather deal with that than mess around with the brake rotor and key.
 
how do you get the lower bearing out, it is pressed in and there is no room to get a puller in there with the shaft still in place. you should be able to remove the the brake and back side chain case all in one shot enough to to get it out of the way and pull the shaft out
 
If if i remember correctly,the bearing is pressed on but,you should be able too get the shaft out with the bearing still on the shaft???No need to remove the housing.
 
when i said housing i ment the backside of the chain case housing with the bearing left in. i think it would be really tight on the speedo side to slide the shaft that way with that bearing on. on the case side it will slide right over the shaft then there is plenty of room to tip the shaft . and if you dont have enough play in your brake lines to get the chain case off it would be easier to unhook the brake line and parking brake cable and pull everything off together rather than dealing the with the disk and caliper. then you could just rehook the parking brake and bleed your brake line when reattached.just my 02. this is all fresh in my mind because i just swapped a the track on mine and replaced both bearing on the shaft because they were bad.
 
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You guys are making this way more difficult than it has to be. why on earth would you unhook the brake line? Why wouldn't you just pull the two 12mm bolts and simply pull the caliper off and set it aside? Much easier than unhooking the brake line, then refilling and bleeding it later. With the caliper off, the chaincase house slides very easily off of the jackshaft and driveshaft as long as you pull the brake disk alone with it. This is literally a two minute job to pull the chaincase one the bolts are off and the guts are out.
 
yamaholic22 said:
You guys are making this way more difficult than it has to be. why on earth would you unhook the brake line? Why wouldn't you just pull the two 12mm bolts and simply pull the caliper off and set it aside? Much easier than unhooking the brake line, then refilling and bleeding it later. With the caliper off, the chaincase house slides very easily off of the jackshaft and driveshaft as long as you pull the brake disk alone with it. This is literally a two minute job to pull the chaincase one the bolts are off and the guts are out.
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^what he said. also dont forget the rotor is keyed to the jackshaft! ;):D #$%&* :o|
 
Problem solved

Thanks for all of the insight. I was able to remove the back chaincase housing along with the disc, thus not needing to monkey with the parking brake. Then it all just slid under caliper when removing. The tricky part was actually being able to remove the disc and chaincase housing. It just didn't want to budge. I had to do this over removing the bottom bearings (i had to drill out a hole i busted a screw in.....dont ask!!!!!). I would still like to see it done without removing the entire housing. It just seems to me like you need more room to remove the jack shaft than you will get just by removing the bottom bearing (Not that i am doubting the people that posted to try this way........Just curious, that's all). Thanks all for your help, now comes the job of putting it all back together.

Thanks again and keep it shiny side up!!!!!!!

Paul
 
all i meant is that is you are starting to remove a bunch of little parts on the caliper and e brake because something is stuck or cables are to short to pull off all together i personally would rather unhook the e brake cable and brake line. it takes 3 minutes to unhook and rehook up and bleed your line.
 
Parking brake takes two minutes to get off and 5 to get back on. Makes it easy to get around in there and then take the caliper off the chain case, too. I just did a 98 XTC 700 and a 2000 sxr 700. Once you know how everything comes apart it's pretty easy. When you put the skid back in loosen the transfer rods all the way - makes it way easier to get the skid back in.
 
xsivhp said:
Parking brake takes two minutes to get off and 5 to get back on. Makes it easy to get around in there and then take the caliper off the chain case, too. I just did a 98 XTC 700 and a 2000 sxr 700. Once you know how everything comes apart it's pretty easy. When you put the skid back in loosen the transfer rods all the way - makes it way easier to get the skid back in.
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I agree with everything but the parking brake,its much easier to just disconnect the cable from the parking brake and then slide everything off together.
 
just did mine this week stayed up till 130am one night trying to figure out that f-ing parking brake lever untill i found this thread. next day did what yamaholic said and boom, after monkeeing with the disc and chain case housing the two came off together so i repeat listen to the holic cause he knows his stuff this site has been a life saver on more than one occasion.
 
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