SRXtrafast
New member
Which studs do you think are better for trail,hard pack and unorganized side of the lake racing: Fast Trac stainless steel carbide tip or Woody's Signature Series stainless steel carbide tip? In either application tall nuts would be used. 

nailsandrails
VIP Member
I am a big fan of Fast-trac....I have always had good luck.. Just purchased another 192 this year 

SRXtrafast
New member
Just tought I'd try this again but this time name your own favorite
woodys chisles up the middle and picks in the outside for trail
if you want them to last, use woodys carbides
woodys holds the patend on the only design that holds the track together not try to wedge it apart.
i also lik the way that woodys will either bend or break before rip through
if you want them to last, use woodys carbides
woodys holds the patend on the only design that holds the track together not try to wedge it apart.
i also lik the way that woodys will either bend or break before rip through
SpartaSXr
Member
After ripping a front heat exchanger apart with a ripped stud, 600 Vmax and throwing a stud through a rear exchanger on a different sled, I prefer no studs. Always happens hours away from the trailer and costs to much for repairs. .02
akrievins
New member
I just put in 96 Stud boy studs into my track. Put on close to 1000 kms and they are incredible. The still look like new. I do take it very easy on hard surfaces though. I've heard woddy's are the best, but I got a great deal on mine. I didn't need anything too fancy for my 485 fan.
Woody's Gold Digger or Excel studs with carbide tips. I have been using the Excel studs since they came out with great success on hardpack, rock filled trails and ice. Best bang for the buck if you ask me.
Mills
Mills
terret725
New member
i put what ever i can find teh cheepest for carbide cause around here theres alot of rocks and unplowed roads we ride so the studs usaly only last a season or 2 maybe 3 if ur lucky. but i try to stick with woodies cause they seem to be teh ones that last 3 seasons
I just put 168 joe stud studs in my track, and i did it because I am a tight a$$. These studs are the old left over woody's excell line of studs. I got 192 studs nuts and blue round plastic backers for 150 bucks. We'll see how it works out. Oh yeah they are the 1.4 inch studs. they are the steel black stud. Maxdlx
ecopter
New member
I'm with SpartaSXr!
Jon
Jon
Viper Treats
New member
SpartaSXr said:After ripping a front heat exchanger apart with a ripped stud, 600 Vmax and throwing a stud through a rear exchanger on a different sled, I prefer no studs. Always happens hours away from the trailer and costs to much for repairs. .02
If you want a safe alternative without having to worry about studs going through an exchanger try running an ice claw track.
I have had really good luck with Saber Studs. Use the Steel vs. Stainless because they are harder and last longer, in that brand anyway.
Last edited:
PZ 1
Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 987
What would be good for sledders to do is mix different kinds of studs on a track for a test. Backers could be tested also. Each kind would be used in all locations. I have done some of it but not enough to get firm results. It seems that plastic backers are not as durable though - despite what all the sellers say.
It's too bad the magazines do not have the courage to do tests like this. They do not want to lose the advertising dollars.
Other parts could also be tested for durability- carbides, wheels, slides, track clips.
Motorcycle Consumer News magazine does this kind of testing on motorcycles and parts. They do not accept any advertising. There probably would not be enough circulation to do it with a snowmobile mag.
It's too bad the magazines do not have the courage to do tests like this. They do not want to lose the advertising dollars.
Other parts could also be tested for durability- carbides, wheels, slides, track clips.
Motorcycle Consumer News magazine does this kind of testing on motorcycles and parts. They do not accept any advertising. There probably would not be enough circulation to do it with a snowmobile mag.
Yamahammer485
Member
I used to run Woodys gold diggers at 1" with round aluminum washers, thats on my old track. Then went to 1.325" woodys stainless steel signature series studs with round backer plates and woodys big nuts, and almost all my plates bent over. So then took out all the studs, but on Woodys blue powdercoated square backerplates and havent had one problem yet.
I highly reccomend either the stainless, or the gold diggers, along with the SQUARE backer plates, and the big nuts, when using longer studs. I like stainless cuz they dont rust and make a mess, they keep it all looking clean. I wish they had a combo of the stainless stud, with the gold digger style to it. That would be the stud id buy!
I highly reccomend either the stainless, or the gold diggers, along with the SQUARE backer plates, and the big nuts, when using longer studs. I like stainless cuz they dont rust and make a mess, they keep it all looking clean. I wish they had a combo of the stainless stud, with the gold digger style to it. That would be the stud id buy!
TimeBomb
New member
running the no studs option since studding a viper w/a ripsaw is a pain in the a**
yamaholic22
Active member
I have always had great luck with Woody's, but this year i went with Roetin hornets on my srx and i gotta tell ya, for the price they are GREAT studs. Very sharp and hold a point well, and so far seem to be quite strong, only one out of 192 broken and conditions were not so great for me this year. I paid about half the price i would've for woody's and they are holding up very well in my opinion.
ridesrx
New member
I used 144 1.40 Extreme Max studs this year on my Viper with Fast Trac plastic double and single backers. I did have two double backers crack, but didn't break. Fast Trac replaced them with no questions about why they broke. I think I had them a little too close together so the studs were angled some in the double backer, or I had them too tight. I think there is a tork spec on studs, but I don't know what it is. I'll never use square backers again. I think they are the reason for most tear outs. They turn and then the corner of the backer puts too much pressure on the track, causing it to puncture the track and the rip all the way thru.Every time I got home from a trip I had to turn some square backers back to the right position.
This year on my Nytro, I'm going to use the same pattern, and then use alluminum double and round single backers, with big nuts this time.
This year on my Nytro, I'm going to use the same pattern, and then use alluminum double and round single backers, with big nuts this time.
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SRXtrafast
New member
Yamahammer485 said:I used to run Woodys gold diggers at 1" with round aluminum washers, thats on my old track. Then went to 1.325" woodys stainless steel signature series studs with round backer plates and woodys big nuts, and almost all my plates bent over. So then took out all the studs, but on Woodys blue powdercoated square backerplates and havent had one problem yet.
I highly reccomend either the stainless, or the gold diggers, along with the SQUARE backer plates, and the big nuts, when using longer studs. I like stainless cuz they dont rust and make a mess, they keep it all looking clean. I wish they had a combo of the stainless stud, with the gold digger style to it. That would be the stud id buy!
If you're looking for some superb round aluminum backer plates give Knapp Yamaha a call. They're out of Prescott,Ontario and they machine their own. I have 192 Woody's SS60 w/short nuts and these backer plates in my srx7. Last 2 seasons I put on 1700 miles w/ only 2 slightly bend studs. This is w/a 1.25 predator and stud length is 1.325. Their number is 613-925-5149

Yamahammer485
Member
SRXtrafast said:If you're looking for some superb round aluminum backer plates give Knapp Yamaha a call. They're out of Prescott,Ontario and they machine their own. I have 192 Woody's SS60 w/short nuts and these backer plates in my srx7. Last 2 seasons I put on 1700 miles w/ only 2 slightly bend studs. This is w/a 1.25 predator and stud length is 1.325. Their number is 613-925-5149![]()
Thanks anyways man, But, Iv already installed the square ones and have perfect luck with them so im going to stick with them, unless they break. And Iv heard of Knapp before, but never looked into it, I think I saw them at the show in Toronto or something.
Also, jsut a few things Id liek to comment on from my original post. When I said washers, I meant round backerplates(cant belive I said washers), and with Woodys Bignuts, you install them, tighten them, then go out for a few rides, and then go back over all them with your ratchet and re-tighten. They really come loose, quite loose actually, and had a stud pullthrough because of it. I didnt use loctite, but next time, If I have to do it all over, will use it.
8vo fan
New member
I run without studs because I love oversteer! A couple of years ago a couple of us crashed bad near lost pines, no studs on an icy road! I almost crashed my buddy this past winter when I pulled out on the road and did a 360! So I believe that studs could save your life! If I were going to stud I would use 5/16 push throughs! they are heavy but they are really hard to bend or break, and the only way they are coming out is with a piece of track!
yamaholic22
Active member
Yamahammer485 said:Thanks anyways man, But, Iv already installed the square ones and have perfect luck with them so im going to stick with them, unless they break. And Iv heard of Knapp before, but never looked into it, I think I saw them at the show in Toronto or something.
Also, jsut a few things Id liek to comment on from my original post. When I said washers, I meant round backerplates(cant belive I said washers), and with Woodys Bignuts, you install them, tighten them, then go out for a few rides, and then go back over all them with your ratchet and re-tighten. They really come loose, quite loose actually, and had a stud pullthrough because of it. I didnt use loctite, but next time, If I have to do it all over, will use it.
I dont think its that they come loose, but more of the fact that the studs are working the rubber and softening the area around the stud making them looser in that sense, so that they need to be retightened shortly after installation and some miles.