8 tooth driver gear ratio

S

SlowSRX

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Mar 11, 2004
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I lost my pm from the guy that does engine work from ohio.

What gearing and chain am I going to need for these 8 tooth drivers and my studded ripsaw track???

I want the same gearing as I had before. It was geared down 1 tooth from stock. Also, is my speedometer going to be off? And how do I fix it?

Thanks, John
 
http://www.maxxperf.com/gearingchart.htm

Stock is 22/38 for a viper, 24/37 will get you close but you'll need a 70link chain. Or go 23/37 and you can use your stock chain. This will give you a little more out of the hole power and you won't loose much up top.


oooops just seen you have a srx. The charts will covert it for you anyway.
 
SlowSRX said:
I lost my pm from the guy that does engine work from ohio.

What gearing and chain am I going to need for these 8 tooth drivers and my studded ripsaw track???

I want the same gearing as I had before. It was geared down 1 tooth from stock. Also, is my speedometer going to be off? And how do I fix it?

Thanks, John
Click to expand...
John when you get a answer to this question can you send me a e-mail I have the same problem!!!! pamario@prodigy.net
 
GS438 said:
John when you get a answer to this question can you send me a e-mail I have the same problem!!!! pamario@prodigy.net
Click to expand...

From what I have seen in part options, the only option is to run a 24 top and 37 bottom for gearing???????????? Am I right, or is there any other options to get back to the stock ratio on an SRX with 8 tooth drivers.
 
I just did the same conversion and I am thrilled with the gearing I have now. I went with a 23-38. The reason I like it so much is because you can eliminate the chain tensioner completely to help free up the driveline. The chain has perfect tension and is just a big oval now without the goofy bend from the tensioner.
This is on a Viper, and my track is 136" so I am down a little from stock but works out pretty well.
 
SlowSRX..

you first asked for re-gearing to your present ratio which is geared down one tooth... are you now asking for stock ratio???...

1) what gears do you presently have in your sled? TOP and BOTTOM..
2) do you want new gears to give you present (geared down ratio) or stock ratio?

with this info, someone can help you and provide gearing to achieve desired, with 8 tooth drivers....

tj
 
Last edited:
TJ500 said:
SlowSRX..

you first asked for re-gearing to your present ratio which is geared down one tooth... are you now asking for stock ratio???...

1) what gears do you presently have in your sled? TOP and BOTTOM..
2) do you want new gears to give you present (geared down ratio) or stock ratio?

with this info, someone can help you and provide gearing to achieve desired, with 8 tooth drivers....

tj
Click to expand...


24 37 is still lower then stock, and I think lower then what I have now. 22 37 with the nine tooth drivers thats a 1.68 ratio. Either way I guess I'll never be able to gear this thing so it will pull 110 honest mph again.

Its a trail ported motor, stock compression ratio, bender cold air kit, v force delta 3's, 8bu clutch set up. Rip saw track, 144 1.325 megabytes.

I'd like to have it pull around 110 anyways.
 
just change to a ratio that is .2 taller than what ever you had and it will be tha same with 8T
 
OK, here is the formula right out of the Yami race manual.
RPM x gear ratio x driver ratio x .01136 = total MPH
Cog ratio is calculated as follows:
pitch- 2.52 x teeth 8or9, divided by 12= 1.89 (9 tooth), 1.68 (8 tooth)
For you, you'll need about 24/35 gearing
8500 rpm x 1.68 cogs x .69 gear ratio x .01136= 111.93 MPH
Stock is 8500x 1.89 x .62 x .01136 = 113.14 MPH

If you do 37/24
8500 x 1.68 x .65 x .01136= 105.44

These are all assuming a full 1:1 shift out. It may take you 2 miles to acheive 1:1 with the wrong gearing. Hope this helps
 
I went with 24 33 high velocity gears and chain. We are also machining the clutch to recieve a less then 1 to 1 ratio. A roundy round racing trick, so according to calculations it should go 116.
 
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