Hi All,
I've got a 02 SRX 700 with transfer rods and a picked track, I'm interested in improving the "over all" performance (speed/acceleration not ride) of the sled and thought a "clutch Kit" would be the next logical step.
Anyone thats been down this road with their SRX please post their experience with Heel Clicker, Bender, Hauck etc. Thanks in advance!
I've got a 02 SRX 700 with transfer rods and a picked track, I'm interested in improving the "over all" performance (speed/acceleration not ride) of the sled and thought a "clutch Kit" would be the next logical step.
Anyone thats been down this road with their SRX please post their experience with Heel Clicker, Bender, Hauck etc. Thanks in advance!
yamaholic22
Active member
Get a 52/44 helix and a green secondary spring, twist it to 60*, 70* in looser snow and let her rip. Cheap, easy, and works well.
you have all kinds of options
You have all kinds of options here, a cheap set up would be a 4.5 rivet in both holes of your stock 8dn-20 weights along with a white/whitw/white yamaha primary spring, for the secondary, I would use around 51/43 helix with green spring, this is very stout
.
Your next best option is a set of 40-10 heel clickers, and a 50/40 helix and green secondary, it works very,very well.
You have all kinds of options here, a cheap set up would be a 4.5 rivet in both holes of your stock 8dn-20 weights along with a white/whitw/white yamaha primary spring, for the secondary, I would use around 51/43 helix with green spring, this is very stout
.
Your next best option is a set of 40-10 heel clickers, and a 50/40 helix and green secondary, it works very,very well.
Thanks for the input guys... I purchased my seld last year from a local dealer who bought it at an auction in MI, so the track was picked and the transfer rods were installed when I purchased it. So today after reading your posts, I checked the "Primary" spring and it's a solid Orange.....not stock? So I'm wondering if the previous owner has already done some "clutch" work. I've attached photo's of the Primary, Secondary and Helix. What do you think....
yamaholic22
Active member
yup somebody already messed with the clutching on it. How does it rev out of the hole to top end?
It has a maximum perfromance clutch kit.Should run 84-8500 rpm solid.
Thanks Turk, I just visited Maxx. web site and found the kit.
Rambunctious
New member
post hyjack 
)
i am going form stock helix on 2000srx to
51/43 helix
flange ground .080 to keep top end shift
and stock(new) red spring wound to 60? stock 3/6 postitions?
2000srx says this is a good setup for minimal $$ and I am excited to try it out this saturday
what else can I add to the drive clutch that matches with this helix.
if i can't beat my buddies RevHo
(hopefully I'm all set)
Note ( will be adding 1" camo with 144 studs)
goal-
beat my buddies 800 revho in 1/4 mile ( i lost by 2 sled lengths last year)
keep top end
and not backshift too much in trail - i like to carry speed through turns ( coasting and maintaining entry/exit with throttle, no dynamic backshift breaking like the rev's do)
thanks for the input
Ramb
)i am going form stock helix on 2000srx to
51/43 helix
flange ground .080 to keep top end shift
and stock(new) red spring wound to 60? stock 3/6 postitions?
2000srx says this is a good setup for minimal $$ and I am excited to try it out this saturday
what else can I add to the drive clutch that matches with this helix.
if i can't beat my buddies RevHo
(hopefully I'm all set)
Note ( will be adding 1" camo with 144 studs)
goal-
beat my buddies 800 revho in 1/4 mile ( i lost by 2 sled lengths last year)
keep top end
and not backshift too much in trail - i like to carry speed through turns ( coasting and maintaining entry/exit with throttle, no dynamic backshift breaking like the rev's do)
thanks for the input
Ramb
51/43, 8dn-20, 2 4.5 rivets, w/w/w spring
scroll down to my post here i listed the cheap clutch kit, its very stout cheap way out.
scroll down to my post here i listed the cheap clutch kit, its very stout cheap way out.
Rambunctious
New member
mrviper - thanks
what windup on green, and how does it behave compared to stock red at 60 degrees... with this helix
thanks
Ramb
what windup on green, and how does it behave compared to stock red at 60 degrees... with this helix
thanks
Ramb
red/green spring
depends on your traction and your weight. a 51/43 I would think with good traction would need a green spring, you might be able to get by with a red but youd need to be at 80-90 I would think. It may overshift if you dont. The key is to find the setting with either the red or green that allows the sled to start from a stop without sucking the belt down in the secondary and then not over rev on top, you only want just enuff tension to keep from overshifting, the less tension you have in the rear, the FASTER the sled will go! I try to use the least amount of secondary spring I can in a given situation, but you NEED to controll the upshift.
Having said that all you need to do is some testing!!
depends on your traction and your weight. a 51/43 I would think with good traction would need a green spring, you might be able to get by with a red but youd need to be at 80-90 I would think. It may overshift if you dont. The key is to find the setting with either the red or green that allows the sled to start from a stop without sucking the belt down in the secondary and then not over rev on top, you only want just enuff tension to keep from overshifting, the less tension you have in the rear, the FASTER the sled will go! I try to use the least amount of secondary spring I can in a given situation, but you NEED to controll the upshift.
Having said that all you need to do is some testing!!
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yes mrviper is correct. ive been there and done that. i had to go to a silver secondary on my mtn srx WITH AGGRESSIVE WEIGHTS cause it over shifted horribly. i was using a green spring at 70 with a 51/43 helix like he suggested for trail riding. but when i tested for race with the green spring it would rev up to about 8100-8200 than drop down to about 7500 and climb up slowly. when i installed the silver spring at 70, it cured this problem and i was able to put a little more tip weight back in my flyweights. it shifted perfect after that and had great top-end for its purpose.
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Rambunctious
New member
ok, I'm learning.......
so what is the goal
ideally a step funtion right? get the rpm instantly to it's peak power output (8400?) and then hold that for the entire accelleration...right?
so if it drops some during the acceleration, then helix angle or spring are insufficient, if it revs over 8400-8500, then you are falling off the peak power curve and you need to back off on spring rate or add more helix angle?
anybody?
Bueller??
thanks for the help so far
Ramb
so what is the goal
ideally a step funtion right? get the rpm instantly to it's peak power output (8400?) and then hold that for the entire accelleration...right?
so if it drops some during the acceleration, then helix angle or spring are insufficient, if it revs over 8400-8500, then you are falling off the peak power curve and you need to back off on spring rate or add more helix angle?
anybody?
Bueller??
thanks for the help so far
Ramb
no you want to spin at about 8100-8200 when you nail it from the start. thats where the motors peak torque curve is at. let it spin on its own to 8500 gradually after that.
hes on to me..........
ahhhhh yes, I see young grasshopper(tomseal6) has been learning......lol!
Good Job!!
Cant state it any better then Tom did!!!!!!!!!!
ahhhhh yes, I see young grasshopper(tomseal6) has been learning......lol!
Good Job!!
Cant state it any better then Tom did!!!!!!!!!!
yamaholic22
Active member
yup Tom that sounds good. Around 8100-8200 out of the hole where you are at the peak torque, and creep up to 8400-8600 on the top end. Nothing wrong with a slight overrev on the top end once everything is FULLY shifted out.
yammy_freak03
New member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2003
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- 36
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- Winnipeg,Manitoba
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I have a quick question, i have a 98 srx 700 and i had a 53/43 helix on it with heavy hitters, i liked the power it had but when i got into the deep stuff it would work too hard and it seemed like the belt would slip, so i put the 47 back on, still has heavy hitters on, im lookin for a set up that is real snappy on bottom end and works decent in the powder, could anyone help? 
not really, your asking for a single set-up for 2 different types of riding. if your going to do the powder thing i would put the stock weights back in. the heavy hitters work good for trail riding.
I have a similar question. I have mrviper's recipe also ( 50/42 @70degrees) . When I get in the deep stuff she'll shift to early. Will a tighter rap help?
. When I get in the deep stuff she'll shift to early. Will a tighter rap help?
ya gotta tune it a little
ya, if your gonna ride in alot of powder or heavy, wet snow(late season), youll have to wind up the spring some more like 80-90 to control the upshift, I just like to run the least amount required when in "normal" conditions, as the sled will go faster with just the correct amount of tension in the back clutch, this way it doesnt fight the front by constantly trying to backshift, pulling the belt down in the front to a lower ratio.
ya, if your gonna ride in alot of powder or heavy, wet snow(late season), youll have to wind up the spring some more like 80-90 to control the upshift, I just like to run the least amount required when in "normal" conditions, as the sled will go faster with just the correct amount of tension in the back clutch, this way it doesnt fight the front by constantly trying to backshift, pulling the belt down in the front to a lower ratio.