daman
New member
LOL......yea me to kewl!!!!!!!! 
you guys look a little cold, faces a little red
you guys look a little cold, faces a little red
Hi guys ! . Glad you liked the hats! 
.
By the way, is "hat" the correct name , I was unsure, cap,hat etc.
Don`t you get hat`s like that in the US?. It`s kind of fun when we are riding up in the mountains with ski-doo & lynx guys, they get scared when they see our horns, haha.
However today was a major set back. I got the package from my dealer, with spark plugs for both the V-Max & my SRX and rollers to V-Max.
I went out imediately after I got the package and changed the rollers and put the new plugs in. Fired her up, but there was NO difference, still running like a bitch.
I don`t think it`s a piston/ring issue because when it first hits the upper powerband it accelerates like hell, can`t be the power of one cylinder.
I tried to notice the rew counter today and it seems like it will obey the throttle when the rpm is over 5000rpm, however, the throttle feels like "on/off" , like a button, full throttle or nothing. It seems like it starts bogging when the primary engages, wierd.
How does the TORS on these sleds work?. Does it "adjust" the engine so that the rpms wount go over 3000rpm, like on my old RX-1 ?.
Gees I really have to figure this out. Guess I will be pulling the carbs again on Monday.
Oh, a too tight gas cable can`t have anything to do with it as long as the TORS is disabled?. I like my wires/controls tight. I still can`t believe that the guy at the motorcycle shop where I worked a little told me that the throttle on motorcycles with double gas wires (one gives gas , one pulls it back) had to have lot`s of play to function properly, and after some fiddling I actually found out that he was right.
Well I guess it`s Friday evening and time to watch Thunderstruck/Braap/Slednecks/Twostrokecoldsmoke/mountainmodmania etc. etc. and grab a cold coke.
. By the way, is "hat" the correct name , I was unsure, cap,hat etc.
Don`t you get hat`s like that in the US?. It`s kind of fun when we are riding up in the mountains with ski-doo & lynx guys, they get scared when they see our horns, haha.
However today was a major set back. I got the package from my dealer, with spark plugs for both the V-Max & my SRX and rollers to V-Max.
I went out imediately after I got the package and changed the rollers and put the new plugs in. Fired her up, but there was NO difference, still running like a bitch.
I don`t think it`s a piston/ring issue because when it first hits the upper powerband it accelerates like hell, can`t be the power of one cylinder.
I tried to notice the rew counter today and it seems like it will obey the throttle when the rpm is over 5000rpm, however, the throttle feels like "on/off" , like a button, full throttle or nothing. It seems like it starts bogging when the primary engages, wierd.
How does the TORS on these sleds work?. Does it "adjust" the engine so that the rpms wount go over 3000rpm, like on my old RX-1 ?.
Gees I really have to figure this out. Guess I will be pulling the carbs again on Monday.
Oh, a too tight gas cable can`t have anything to do with it as long as the TORS is disabled?. I like my wires/controls tight. I still can`t believe that the guy at the motorcycle shop where I worked a little told me that the throttle on motorcycles with double gas wires (one gives gas , one pulls it back) had to have lot`s of play to function properly, and after some fiddling I actually found out that he was right.
Well I guess it`s Friday evening and time to watch Thunderstruck/Braap/Slednecks/Twostrokecoldsmoke/mountainmodmania etc. etc. and grab a cold coke.
daman
New member
The next thing you need to do is a compresson test. Do it and
let us know what you got.
should be no less than 10% differance between the two cyls.
let us know what you got.
should be no less than 10% differance between the two cyls.
WrdAl
New member
Put fresh fuel in it.
I agree with Daman, get us compression test results.
While you have the carbs out again, I suggest you pull the reed blocks out and inspect them, could be a broken reed. Like I said before, that would be a good time to do the reed stopper notch, easy to do.
Verify the fuel screw settings (about 2 turns out) and the needle clip positions.
Make sure every passage is blown out with compressed air, not just the jets but the passages also.
Keep us posted.
I agree with Daman, get us compression test results.
While you have the carbs out again, I suggest you pull the reed blocks out and inspect them, could be a broken reed. Like I said before, that would be a good time to do the reed stopper notch, easy to do.
Verify the fuel screw settings (about 2 turns out) and the needle clip positions.
Make sure every passage is blown out with compressed air, not just the jets but the passages also.
Keep us posted.
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daman
New member
WrdAl said:
YES,YES,YES!!!!!!!
yamyrider
Active member
there is TORS at the throttle as well but I am not sure if it is wired seperate from the one on the carb.
For the fun of it loosen the throttle cable and see what happens.
I know on my sled there were wired seperate. When I first got the sled I tightend the cable and the tors activated I by passed the carb switch and tors was still on. I loosened the cable and it worked. I asked my dealer and they told me tors at the throttle as well.
For the fun of it loosen the throttle cable and see what happens.
I know on my sled there were wired seperate. When I first got the sled I tightend the cable and the tors activated I by passed the carb switch and tors was still on. I loosened the cable and it worked. I asked my dealer and they told me tors at the throttle as well.
Ok guys thanks for all the replys !.
Hopefully I can do a compression test on Sunday. The only thing is that the measurement can be somewhat unacurate because on normal compression tester the needle in the gauge will stay at the highest point after you have tested the compression, our tester is not like that. The needle drops imediately after the pressure falls, but we`ll do our best.
However, the gas cable is pretty tight, I thought it wouldn`t matter since it was suppost to be disabled.
NEW INFO: (hehe) The water temp light blinks many times after startup, wount stop blinking before the engine temp has gone up. Wierd. Light blinks together with un-even idling.
I will try to loosen the gas cable and see if there is any difference. Maybe I should try to reconnect the TORS, just for the fun.
The wierd thing is that the sled seemed FINE when we picked it up, and it hasn`t been ridden since.
What is the "reed stopper notch" ?. Like a pin that the reed blade is suppost to stop against?. I`m only guessing.
Is it possible to check the reeds without removing the inlets because if I remove the inlets then I will have to wait a week for new inlet gaskets
.
I wonder if it could be a TORS/too tight cable issue. When I rew over 5000rpm it`s just like on/off, rews like hell and runs like hell. Could it be that when the throttle is pushed enough in the TORS some how thinks everything is OK and let`s the engine rew?. But, the TORS is suppost to be disconnected. How does the TORS on these sleds make the engine behave when it kicks in?.
Gees this is quite interesting.
Hopefully I can do a compression test on Sunday. The only thing is that the measurement can be somewhat unacurate because on normal compression tester the needle in the gauge will stay at the highest point after you have tested the compression, our tester is not like that. The needle drops imediately after the pressure falls, but we`ll do our best.
However, the gas cable is pretty tight, I thought it wouldn`t matter since it was suppost to be disabled.
NEW INFO: (hehe) The water temp light blinks many times after startup, wount stop blinking before the engine temp has gone up. Wierd. Light blinks together with un-even idling.
I will try to loosen the gas cable and see if there is any difference. Maybe I should try to reconnect the TORS, just for the fun.
The wierd thing is that the sled seemed FINE when we picked it up, and it hasn`t been ridden since.
What is the "reed stopper notch" ?. Like a pin that the reed blade is suppost to stop against?. I`m only guessing.
Is it possible to check the reeds without removing the inlets because if I remove the inlets then I will have to wait a week for new inlet gaskets
.I wonder if it could be a TORS/too tight cable issue. When I rew over 5000rpm it`s just like on/off, rews like hell and runs like hell. Could it be that when the throttle is pushed enough in the TORS some how thinks everything is OK and let`s the engine rew?. But, the TORS is suppost to be disconnected. How does the TORS on these sleds make the engine behave when it kicks in?.
Gees this is quite interesting
.
kysledneck
New member
I have the 97 Tech update & there is a page in here that goes over all the water temp light blinkings! it is suppost to blink 3 times at start up, then it has all the other scenarios of what the light does & what is wrong with the sled! I can post it if you need it!
WrdAl
New member
Here's a link to the TY Tech Page that has the reed stopper notch, it does the same thing as putting reed spacers on.
reed stopper notch
If you're carefull, and if there isn't any gasket adhesive used, you don't need new gaskets to pull and inspect the reeds.
Make sure to put in fresh fuel. (there it's been said enough)
reed stopper notch
If you're carefull, and if there isn't any gasket adhesive used, you don't need new gaskets to pull and inspect the reeds.
Make sure to put in fresh fuel. (there it's been said enough)
kysledneck: Thanks for the info! . So, if I don`t understand you wrong, the blinking water temp light might be an "error code" , or?. If it`s like that, then I would really appreciate it if you could post the codes for me.
Thanks for the link to the reed stopper notch WrdAl. I hate to re-use gaskets that should be changed but if they don`t break then I might re use them. Should I put some loctite on them when reassembling?.
. So, if I don`t understand you wrong, the blinking water temp light might be an "error code" , or?. If it`s like that, then I would really appreciate it if you could post the codes for me. Thanks for the link to the reed stopper notch WrdAl
. I hate to re-use gaskets that should be changed but if they don`t break then I might re use them. Should I put some loctite on them when reassembling?.
kysledneck
New member
Yes it is a code! it is suppost to blink 3 times @ start up to let you know the system is working. I went to scan the page & our damn scanner is messing up! Let me see if we can get it goin ! or I will take a pic!
kimoaj said:kysledneck: Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the link to the reed stopper notch WrdAl
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Thanks very much Kysledneck ! .
Very kind of you!.
I will print them out and take them with me when I visit the sled next time.
Thanks again !.
Gees guys, it`s raining outside... gah. Well, not that bad actually because I guess it snows up in the mountains when it rains down at the sea level.
I will brief you as soon as I have fiddled with the sled!.
Have a nice American Chopper everyone!. (starts at 21.00 here in Norway, clock is now 20.24).
Joakim.
Very kind of you!
. I will print them out and take them with me when I visit the sled next time
. Thanks again !
.Gees guys, it`s raining outside... gah. Well, not that bad actually because I guess it snows up in the mountains when it rains down at the sea level.
I will brief you as soon as I have fiddled with the sled!.
Have a nice American Chopper everyone!. (starts at 21.00 here in Norway, clock is now 20.24).
Joakim.
bluehammer
New member
What I haven't read here yet is whether you have pinpointed what cylinder is giving you all of the grief. Pull a wire and see if it does the same thing and then do the other side. That should tell you something. It almost sounds as if the piston is gone just a slight bit on the exhaust side on one cylinder.. A bend a light will let you look at the pistons from the plug hole or through the exhaust port. Could be a plug boot. Could be that one of the carb slides is out of sync with the other side. With the carbs off look at the space on the carbs at the bottom of the slide and see if they are close. Junk gas will do it to. Syphon some out and smell it. If it smells bad get it out of there.
daman
New member
bluehammer said:
PTO side i think.
Thanks for the replys!.
When I had the carbs off I checked that the slides where synced, visual check, but they did look fine. I don`t think it`s a carb sync problem because it doesn`t seem like it since the problems suddenly occurs at a certain rpm.
From my experiences when it comes to running a sled on last years gas (I`ve never had any problems with it) I don`t think it`s the gas. But, if I don`t find any other solutions then I will have to change it just to eliminate it.
The guy who sold it said that it should run on 98oct but I remeber that I ran my 96 V-Max XT on 95oct. So did my friend with a 96 V-Max DX.
I will try to find out which cylinder that is failing. If my crazy friend was home I`d make him pull the plug cap on cylinder nr. 1 (assuming that you count the cylinders from the primary side) when I rew it at 4000rpm when the bogging comes. Scary shit though.
Can I remove the belt in order to rew it a little without having to lift the track from the ground?.
Gees it`s blowing like hell outside and the rain is pooring down, gah. Where is that nice varm garage when I need it! .
Tomorrow I will be busy most of the day I think because I`m going to help a friend change all the track wheel bearing + some track wheels in his V-Max 4. We are putting a 57mm lug belt on it, hope it will fit!. (using 7teeth drive wheels + having dropped everything down).
I will keep you posted when I fiddle with it, might be a few days til the next time.
What do you mean by "PTO side" ? . Primary ..... ...... ?.
.When I had the carbs off I checked that the slides where synced, visual check, but they did look fine. I don`t think it`s a carb sync problem because it doesn`t seem like it since the problems suddenly occurs at a certain rpm.
From my experiences when it comes to running a sled on last years gas (I`ve never had any problems with it) I don`t think it`s the gas. But, if I don`t find any other solutions then I will have to change it just to eliminate it.
The guy who sold it said that it should run on 98oct but I remeber that I ran my 96 V-Max XT on 95oct. So did my friend with a 96 V-Max DX.
I will try to find out which cylinder that is failing. If my crazy friend was home I`d make him pull the plug cap on cylinder nr. 1 (assuming that you count the cylinders from the primary side) when I rew it at 4000rpm when the bogging comes. Scary shit though.
Can I remove the belt in order to rew it a little without having to lift the track from the ground?.
Gees it`s blowing like hell outside and the rain is pooring down, gah
. Where is that nice varm garage when I need it! .Tomorrow I will be busy most of the day I think because I`m going to help a friend change all the track wheel bearing + some track wheels in his V-Max 4. We are putting a 57mm lug belt on it, hope it will fit!. (using 7teeth drive wheels + having dropped everything down).
I will keep you posted when I fiddle with it, might be a few days til the next time.
What do you mean by "PTO side" ? . Primary ..... ...... ?.
bluehammer
New member
Pto side is clutch side. Interesting to note here that you are so reluctant to change the fuel when it is so easy. Syphon it out and use it in the snowblower. Not a good idea to run it without the belt on. But we've done it. There will be no load on the motor, so you may not be able to duplicate the problem. When you cleaned the carbs did you physically remove the mains and pilots and look at them to see if they were plugged? Did you use a good carb spray like Gumout to squirt into the circuits where the jets go to see if it comes out on the other end? Didyou spray the jets themselves? Sometimes compressed air will not remove crud and other contaminents.
Ok I`m not that worried about changing the fuel, I`m more worried about buying new gas cause I`m short on money right now.Do I have to remove the tank?. I just bought an SRX and with it came the insurance clame and the registration costs and I`m this week I`ll spend my last bucks on new tires for my car. It might sound stupid but that`s the way it is. I dislike to ask my parents for money.
I removed the two jets that sits inside the float chamber and they were totally clean. However I did spray som CRC 5-56 inside everywhere and blew through all passages with compressed air. I did not remove the tiny jet that sits on the air filter side of the carb because I couldn`t find the right screwdriver and I didn`t want to ruin it.
The carbs seemed very clean. Only thing is those (I guess it`s pilot yet) that I didn`t remove, and there was quite much dirt in the area around the jet from the air filter, but I figured the compressed air would handle it.
I will remove the carbs and make sure those jets are clean.
I removed the two jets that sits inside the float chamber and they were totally clean. However I did spray som CRC 5-56 inside everywhere and blew through all passages with compressed air. I did not remove the tiny jet that sits on the air filter side of the carb because I couldn`t find the right screwdriver and I didn`t want to ruin it.
The carbs seemed very clean. Only thing is those (I guess it`s pilot yet) that I didn`t remove, and there was quite much dirt in the area around the jet from the air filter, but I figured the compressed air would handle it.
I will remove the carbs and make sure those jets are clean.
bluehammer
New member
Did you pull the air fuel screws and clean that circuit? Do that too when you pull them again. Check to see what each adjustment is by screwing them all the way in and counting the turns. I would guess they should be 1.5-2.0 turns out.
I dit not pull the fuel screws and I did not check the settings.. I didn`t think it was necessary.. .Will do that when I take them off again.
Today I`ve been replacing all the bearings in my friends V-Max 4 "boogie". Well, still two to go, the two wheels in the front of the boogie was kind of hard to remove.
Gees, now all our snow is gone. Been raining for two days... but the weather report said that it was suppost to be colder and that it would snow!.
Today I`ve been replacing all the bearings in my friends V-Max 4 "boogie". Well, still two to go, the two wheels in the front of the boogie was kind of hard to remove.
Gees, now all our snow is gone. Been raining for two days... but the weather report said that it was suppost to be colder and that it would snow!
.