1997 V-Max 600SX engine problem

Put the gas from the sled in your car and put fresh gas and something like SeaFoam fuel conditioner in it.

Then pull the head off and take a look - you're wasting a lot of valuable time waiting for the compression tester - there's going to be snow soon!! :)
 
Hi guys !

Thanks for the tips! :). The only thing is, "Seafoam" doesn`t excist in Norway, what is it good for anyway?.

Bthomas29 , are you having the exact same problems?. How did they occure the first time?. (sled been stored for a while or?).

Oh, I`m looking at the "blinking codes" and I can`t say that I understand how I should read them?.

Maybe I should videotape the instruments when I fire it up so that you can get to see the blinking and how it behaves?.

Will pull the carbs as soon as I`m finished with some other projects in the workshop, I`m not quite finished with replacing the boogie bearings in my friends V-Max 4 and I`m also replacing a crankshaft in a Suzuki TSX moped etc. :).

Are the 600 V-Max engines suppost to run on 95 or 98 octan?.

Do I have to remove the tank in order to empty it or?.
 
I actually just rebuilt my sled because the engine blew! I replaced the engine and rebuilt the carbs from two sets. Put it back in and it idled fine but kept bogging out. Pulled carbs, cleaned them again and made sure the floats where are equal. Put them back on and it idled like crap but ran great at the top end.
In idle, it was only running on one to two cylinders and fouling the plugs. Just recently I took the carbs off again and re-cleaned the pilot jet screw and passages, backed the screws out 1 and 1/4 turns( had it at 1 and 1/2 before) and now it seems to be running fine, although I am watching the plugs to see if it might be on the lean side. Anyway, any questions let me know I am new at working on these things so I am learning as I go. Any advice from the forum would be great. I am also wondering if there is any easy way to tell if your crank is getting oil. I know the pump is feeding the fuel pump but am cautious about the crank since the last one shredded up my sled?
 
Aha bthomas29 so your V-Max got better after you cleaned pilot jets and passages?.
Anyway, if you went from 1 and 1/2 turn out to 1 an 1/4 out then your sled is running a little richer now. The aiir/fuel screw settings shouldn`t have anything to do with plug fouling unless you idle ALOT.

HPIM1148Medium.jpg

Is this the screw you are reffering to?. Gees I`m kind of confused because I can`t remember if the carbs had an air/fuel screw on the outside or if this is the one.
I tried to remove it but my screw driver slipped so I didn`t try that much since I didn`t want to ruin the jet/screw. However it was wierd that it was so stuck if it is the air/fuel screw and isn`t suppost to be screwed all the way inn.
(sorry for messing around with this, I`m used to simple moped carbs/motorcycle carbs).

The crank is beeing lubed from the excessive oil that gets into the cylinders with the gas, that`s how it is in all two stroke engines. So if your oil settings are correct I guess the engine get`s enough oil?.
By the way, does the Ski-Doo SDI engines have a separat oil lubing system?.
I read something about a new "hybrid engine" (they called it "three stroke engine"). This engine was suppost to produce alot less gasses then the ordinary two stroke engine. The engine had a separate lubing system for the crank and it had an inlet valve and was fuel injected. The fuel that was pushed into the combustion chamber was NOT mixed with oil, therefor the little exhaust gasses.
Am I right wrong?.

:).

Gees seems like I am getting the flew/cold. Sorry for not working with the V-Max but I`m busy with other projects:).
 
that right there in the picture is the air jet. The fuel screws are down on the bottom of the carbs, on the engine side of the floatbowl
 
Hi guys ! :) Thanks for the replys.

I haven`t had time to fiddle with the V-Max yet, sorry!. Been busy rebuilding a moped engine to a guy that has a cabin out here, may sound wierd but it takes alot of time.I`m also finished with replacing all the bearings in my friends V-Max 4 boogie.

The last couple of days there has been snowing alot here!. There is about 40cm with snow outside my house and 75-80cm up in the mountains. It`s totally powder so it`s till kind of scary to ride because you sink right through it and under the snow is all the stones etc.

Now I`ve got some problems with my SRX, it only occurs when I ride in the deep powder snow when the snow flowes over the hood, it wount rew properly:(. Guess I will have to make a thread in the SRX forum. It runs like hell when the snow doesn`t flow over the hood.

:).
 
lol....you r one funny guy, You certainly have your problems w/ sleds!, and other toys.
 
Hi guys ! .

Yeah the picture was great, but I wonder what you call the jet that is positioned "against" the air filter side?.

Yammie yeah I am a wierd guy:).

I still havent been messing with the V-Max sorry for keeping you on hold guys.

It seems like there is another guy here that is having the EXACT same problems with his 98 V-Max 600, "V-Max 6000 stuttering" the topic said".

Wierd ! .
 
The easiest way to see if you lost a cylinder is to slowly pull the pull start. When my piston ring broke last year it did the same thing. Sometimes it had good compression while riding and sometimes wouldn't go past 50 then jump to 80 then back down to 50 mph again. While pulling pull starter you will feel little or no compression in 1 cylinder if you broke a ring. Pull should feel steady.
 
That's pretty much exactly how my friend's 97 600 ran when his piston pin failed, it swiped the exhaust port, and gouged the heck out of everything. It ran great at higher rpms because of the secondary compression making up for the lack of sealing in the rings. I'd pull the plugs, and use a flash light to look at your piston tops, if there's any gouging at all, pony up for some new parts.

Good luck!
 
Hi guys !

Time for an update on the V-Max.

Yesterday I went out to fiddle alittle with it.
It was -10 degrees (celcius) outside, and the first thing I had to do was to melt the frozen gas cable. I removed the steering "swamp" to better access the cable, I used the an hairdrier to melt it, suddenly it startet to move freely. I putt he "swamp" back on the handlebar and as I was about to start pulling, the throttle as totally stuck again. Gees. Did it all again and when it got loose again I made sure it didn`t freeze before I started pulling.

I thought I would have to pull for ages but it fired up after only 5 pulls.
It stumbled just like before, but the watertemp light did not blink any more then the two start up blinks.

The sled idled for atleast 5 minutes, I wanted to get the engine nice and warm so that I wouldn`t freeze (haha) to death while removing the carbs. I drove the sled down the driveway and into the garage, it behaved just like before, started bogging at about 3000rpm but ran nice over 5500rpm or so, however, when I was about to turn the sled around, the bogging somehow became less noticeably, but it was still there.

I drove the sled into the garage and removed the carbs again.
I took a look at the reeds, all the reed blades looked fine, non of them were broken and all of them returned to their position when I touched them with my finger. The inlet rubber seems soft and nice.

I took the carbs up to my workshop and then I removed the air jets that I didn`t remove the last time I had the carbs off.
As I expected, the air jets was 100% clean. But, I guess there can be dirt in the "canals" , less likely though.

I then tried to screw the air/gas mixture screws inn so that I could check their settings.

On of them was (pretty exactly) two turns out. The other one was like 1 and 6/8 turns out.


I tried pulling the starting rope slowly in order to maybe feel some difference between the cylinders (compression difference). First I thought one of them seemed easier to pull, but then I remove the plugs and put my thumb at the plug hole in the head, and turned the engine by putting my hand on the primary, and the pressure seemed very even. However, I`m still waiting for my friend to bring the compression tester.

I took a flash light and looked on the pistons, the surface looked totally smooth as it should be, no signs of bad things.

The only thing I haven`t tried is spraying starter fluid on the magnet side crank seal.

Should I rew the sled , (run it in the bogging area) when doing this or is it enough to let it idle?.

Is it possible to spray starter fluid on that seal without removing anything?.

Hmm.. .

Well, that`s all I had to share with you for now...


Joakim :)
 
By the way, when it idles it stumbles from 2000rpm to 2500rpm, up and down... .
Just so you know:).
 
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