crimsonride
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Ok, here goes.
I'm starting a exciter project. I currently have three exciters. One completely stock that I'm not going to touch.
One that's the front half of an exciter with a arctic cat tunnel, piped, head work, clutched, 136 x 1 3/4, only problem is the track is starting to rub on the heat exchangers and the frame's bent so it doesn't turn very well to the left.
and one that's pretty much stock other than a pipe, and long track. It has a burned engine.
Here's my plan. Take the yamaha/cat and pull the engine, track, clutch, and every thing off of it, and deposit into the good frame. Relocate the rear suspension about five inches lower, step down to eight tooth or seven tooth drivers, relocate the heat exchangers outside the tunnel, lighten the thing as much as possible and raise the handlebars about five inches.. I'm also working on a way to lift the front end maybe two inches. Might as well pull the sway bar too.
Let me know what you think.
I'm also thinking of a 144" or 141" track and pushing the skid back or extending it. I think it might be a little overkill on the engine but the smaller drivers should make up for it. I'm guessing the engine might be putting out something like 90 hp with the work done to it. With the current 136" tack it'll dang near stand on end, doesn't seem to be having a hard time at all.
I'm starting a exciter project. I currently have three exciters. One completely stock that I'm not going to touch.
One that's the front half of an exciter with a arctic cat tunnel, piped, head work, clutched, 136 x 1 3/4, only problem is the track is starting to rub on the heat exchangers and the frame's bent so it doesn't turn very well to the left.
and one that's pretty much stock other than a pipe, and long track. It has a burned engine.
Here's my plan. Take the yamaha/cat and pull the engine, track, clutch, and every thing off of it, and deposit into the good frame. Relocate the rear suspension about five inches lower, step down to eight tooth or seven tooth drivers, relocate the heat exchangers outside the tunnel, lighten the thing as much as possible and raise the handlebars about five inches.. I'm also working on a way to lift the front end maybe two inches. Might as well pull the sway bar too.
Let me know what you think.
I'm also thinking of a 144" or 141" track and pushing the skid back or extending it. I think it might be a little overkill on the engine but the smaller drivers should make up for it. I'm guessing the engine might be putting out something like 90 hp with the work done to it. With the current 136" tack it'll dang near stand on end, doesn't seem to be having a hard time at all.
03viperguy
Moderator
sounds like a fun project. I dont know enough to say it will or wont work, but it sure sounds cool 
pics of the starting point?
pics of the starting point?crimsonride
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here's the best picture I've got. Far left red one is the donor sled and the far right black one is the platform I'm going to build on.
As far as top speed goes, I've heard you lose 15 mph per tooth you drop on the drivers. Assuming this is true I'm going to lose 30 mph droping to a seven tooth driver. I think these have nine teeth drivers on them. I can do about 96 on it now so I'm guessing 66 is going to be about the top after the work. I can live with that being as it's a mountain sled.
As far as top speed goes, I've heard you lose 15 mph per tooth you drop on the drivers. Assuming this is true I'm going to lose 30 mph droping to a seven tooth driver. I think these have nine teeth drivers on them. I can do about 96 on it now so I'm guessing 66 is going to be about the top after the work. I can live with that being as it's a mountain sled.
03viperguy
Moderator
see no pics 
ModMMax
New member
I don't think I would use 7 or even 8 tooth drivers. Roll the chaincase and use 9's. Makes all the gears ratios easier to get to. Your other ideas are solid. Remove the sway bar, relocate the skid frame. BTW, it is my understanding that you can safely relocate a skid frame so there is a gap of up to 8" between the tips of the rails and the edge of the drivers. Makes it easier to drop the suspension out and maintain a reasonalble approach angle. I think you have picked a great project. Looking forward to progress pics. Good luck.
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crimsonride
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Whoops, sorry. Here's the pic. My laptop died before I could load the picture.
So, Just curious. Why can't I just reduce the size of the drivers? Does it mess up the shifting of the clutches? I was under the understanding that it would simply give me a lower final gear ratio giving me a lower top speed but also benefiting me with more acceleration. I wasn't planning on changing gears.
I should be begining work in two weeks. I'll take pictures of the whole thing and keep you guys posted.
I've looked at rolling the chaincase and I'm not sure it's a possibility, I would have to run the jackshaft through the bulkhead and I haven't got much in the way of possiblities to mount the bearings. I'll get some pictures and do some brainstorming.
So, Just curious. Why can't I just reduce the size of the drivers? Does it mess up the shifting of the clutches? I was under the understanding that it would simply give me a lower final gear ratio giving me a lower top speed but also benefiting me with more acceleration. I wasn't planning on changing gears.
I should be begining work in two weeks. I'll take pictures of the whole thing and keep you guys posted.
I've looked at rolling the chaincase and I'm not sure it's a possibility, I would have to run the jackshaft through the bulkhead and I haven't got much in the way of possiblities to mount the bearings. I'll get some pictures and do some brainstorming.
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ModMMax
New member
In theory, using gear ratio to compensate for driver size reduction should result in the same overall driveline package. It's also accepted that most mountain applications need a gear ratio of 2:1 to 2:2. While you can produce ratios in this range using either 8 or 9 tooth drivers, the 9's are more efficient that the 8's. I've used both (never used 7's) and beleive there is a difference in the sleds performance. I'm sure the world is full of guys using 8's with deep lug tracks who will claim there is no difference but I think its accepted that smaller drivers and rear wheels need more horsepower to turn the track that 9's or even 10s 'and 8" rear wheels. Head frame load up is huge issue in the mountains. Tight clearances and small wheels do not work as well as big clearances and bigger drivers.
The exciter engine always seemed reluctant to go to work. Power band was narrower than todays engines. Just means that you need to really pay attention to the transmission. Engagement needs to be high and and backshifting needs to be fast if you want to make it work. I never rolled a chaincase on an exciter so I can't give you advice. I've rolled many MM's and know that it may not be a perfect mod for all applications. If you ride in a wide variaty of conditions then stay with the stock set up. If you are building a specialty sled for steep and deep, then you might appreciate the change to performance. Hope this helps you.
The exciter engine always seemed reluctant to go to work. Power band was narrower than todays engines. Just means that you need to really pay attention to the transmission. Engagement needs to be high and and backshifting needs to be fast if you want to make it work. I never rolled a chaincase on an exciter so I can't give you advice. I've rolled many MM's and know that it may not be a perfect mod for all applications. If you ride in a wide variaty of conditions then stay with the stock set up. If you are building a specialty sled for steep and deep, then you might appreciate the change to performance. Hope this helps you.
crimsonride
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Ahhhh, thanks for the info. I have a MM for my real pleasure, I'm not really relying on this for anything, I just want something to play with.
I've always thought a built up exciter could do pretty well and it would be cool to have something old that climbs pretty good. It's already clutched, power isn't too much an issue. It's not going to win any races with real sleds but I bet with it built it could keep up on the trail.
As far as the gearing goes I can fit a 1.75 in track in it with light modifications to the heat exchangers, no changing of the drivers is nessesary. I was thinking along the lines of lowering my final gear ratio for a little more power to pull a larger track. I'm not sure the stock final gear ratio of these sleds but they're not built for mountains so I think I can afford to drop a little. So I guess what my real question is if you think I have enough power to pull a 144" track?
I'll get into it a little and post my progress and questions.
I've always thought a built up exciter could do pretty well and it would be cool to have something old that climbs pretty good. It's already clutched, power isn't too much an issue. It's not going to win any races with real sleds but I bet with it built it could keep up on the trail.
As far as the gearing goes I can fit a 1.75 in track in it with light modifications to the heat exchangers, no changing of the drivers is nessesary. I was thinking along the lines of lowering my final gear ratio for a little more power to pull a larger track. I'm not sure the stock final gear ratio of these sleds but they're not built for mountains so I think I can afford to drop a little. So I guess what my real question is if you think I have enough power to pull a 144" track?
I'll get into it a little and post my progress and questions.
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ModMMax
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I think so. 1993 was the first mountain exciter. Came with a 136. It was mountain sled of the year.
crimsonride
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Alright, the work starts tomorrow. I've had the brackets made, here's some pictures of the brackets and the two snowmobiles. The red one's the donor sled and the black one's the receiving sled.
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crimsonride
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WOW, those pictures are huge, Anyone know hot to resize them?
sxviper32
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crimsonride
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Sweet, thanks
crimsonride
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Okay, well the engine is in and finally done, it's been a long time since I've had a warm enough Saturday to do the work. I've removed the oil injection for less weight. I'm going to take it up and run it around a bit and see how it's running. The lift's going on next weekend along with handle bar extensions and plastic skis. I'm thinking of moving the light and instrument pod down onto the hood. That could take a little work though. For now it's getting lightened, lifted and tracked.
03viperguy
Moderator
sounds cool, pics of the progress!!! 
121" --> 136"
Hello !
Great project !
I'm also looking into long tracking a Exciter.
My wifes Exciter II SX ( 1993 ) is going to need a new track and I'm looking to the direction of an 136"
But, my biggest concern is the rear cooler !
Does anyone have any solution ?
One thougt I has is to trow out all the 4 !! Yamaha collers and put in 2 nice Ski-Doo coolers.
The Ski-Doo coolers are thinner and have great cooling capabilities.
they also create some more space around the drivers !!
crimsonride :
We need pictures on your project !
Hello !
Great project !
I'm also looking into long tracking a Exciter.
My wifes Exciter II SX ( 1993 ) is going to need a new track and I'm looking to the direction of an 136"
But, my biggest concern is the rear cooler !
Does anyone have any solution ?
One thougt I has is to trow out all the 4 !! Yamaha collers and put in 2 nice Ski-Doo coolers.
The Ski-Doo coolers are thinner and have great cooling capabilities.
they also create some more space around the drivers !!
crimsonride :
We need pictures on your project !
crimsonride
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Lasse, if you weren't so far away I'd sell ya a old set of my rails and track cheap, the tunnel was replaced on the parts sled so I don't have an extension for ya. Maybe you won't need one. There's plenty of companies that sell them though. I'll get some pics up this weekend after I've added the lift. Right now it looks the same so a pic won't do alot other than show a new engine. But after this weekend it should look totally different
Pictures.....
crimsonride :
We need pictures of your project !!
crimsonride :
We need pictures of your project !!
crimsonride
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Sorry Lasse, didn't get anything done Saturday, it was pretty cold and crumby so I didn't get any work done on it.
crimsonride
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Well, i'm reviving the program. Tomorrow I'm embarking on a snowmobile building adventure. I've got to go pull the 7 tooth drivers from the phazer, pick up the 144, pick up hardware and some material to make lift brackets. Then, Saturday, it's go time. I'll post some pics and updates Sunday.