ET 250 fuel problem

4

4stroked

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Dec 12, 2005
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I'm not getting enough fuel into the motor. I have rebuilt the carb with a new
diaphram kit and I believe I have the float set properly. I cannot draw fuel at
all with the choke on. I have to repeatedly spray starting fluid down the cylinder which it will run for a moment then finally take off. When running, it seems to idle fine but will sputter at slow take-off. Plug inspection is very light brown and hot which tells me not enough fuel... I don't believe there is
any air/fuel adjustments on this carb. When I rebuilt it I dipped it in a cleaning
solution to dissolve any gummed up orifices. Please help, (If I could buy a new
carb I'd do it!)
 

If you have the ET 250, you don't have a float. It has diaphrams, one of which actuates the needle valve. If you have an air compressor, it would be a good idea the blow through the choke valve. If you have the tools do a leak down test to determine how well your crank seals are. That is gettng to be more of a common problem. On my two 250s I have rebuilt the them because the seals in the engine got weak. So their wasn't enough pressure in the base to operate the the carb properly. One I even have put the Bravo 250 carb on. That ET 250 runs better and stronger than the factory carb. All that was needed was the rubber carb adapter. Some these older engines need some extra attention to make them run properly again.
 
Brad69, thanks for your reply

Brad 69

What would the purpose of blowing compressed air in the choke valve be - to free up an obstruction? Should I go easy on the air pressure so I don't damage the diaphrams? Does the crankcase provide air pressure or vaccum to the carb and is there any way to check this without special tools or can I rent a gauge?

Sorry for all the questions but I have had the carb on and off at least 6 times trying to figure this out. I also have a 1980 Enticer 250 that runs great and I just want to fix this one... Thank you in advance!
 
You should never blow air into a carb completely assemled. All carbs have circuts that the fuel runs through ( Choke, pilot jet, main jet, Needle valve). Newer carbs (float type) have different circuts than the carb you have. You carb also acts like a fuel pump. you can also inspect you pulse line or just replace it (only a 6" or 7" line) if their is an air leak you my still get the same results as you do now. The compressed air will blow the obstruction out (it should). This problem can occure on newer and older sleds. You must do this disassembled or you risk damaging your diaphrams. You can ask me as many questions as you wish. I just hope I can be of some help to get your sled up and running. You may also contact me at (518) 293-6213 Brad
 
Brad_69 said:
If you have the ET 250, you don't have a float. It has diaphrams, one of which actuates the needle valve. If you have an air compressor, it would be a good idea the blow through the choke valve. If you have the tools do a leak down test to determine how well your crank seals are. That is gettng to be more of a common problem. On my two 250s I have rebuilt the them because the seals in the engine got weak. So their wasn't enough pressure in the base to operate the the carb properly. One I even have put the Bravo 250 carb on. That ET 250 runs better and stronger than the factory carb. All that was needed was the rubber carb adapter. Some these older engines need some extra attention to make them run properly again.
Click to expand...

I bought a 78 250 enticer for my son and it is missing the screw in the middle of the bottom of the fuel pump. I tried to order a new one and it is discontinued. Does the bravo carb have a fuel pump attached to it?
 
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