Effect of more or less twist on secondary???

J

jaydaniels

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Dec 19, 2004
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Age
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Location
Amherst NS
Does any one know the effect of placing more or less twist on the secondary spring. Right now I'm at 60 deg. If I go to 50 deg. will this lower RPM? Just not exactly sure how the secondary works. It seems to me that the less spring pressure would allow the secondary to open easier.
 
what color spring are you using? too low of a twist will cause your belt to slip into your secondary too fast. its like going from 1st gear to 3rd or 4th gear in your car from a stop and will not back shift very fast at all. the ideal setting would be a green spring at 70 and thats just a starting point. sled weight, type of riding, and rider weight all play a factor in your secondary setting.
 
You could try 50* do get into high gear sooner, but it depends on WHEN you are over revving. Are we talking studs on smooth ice, loose snow, grass? Launch rpm, 0-50mph or 80mph+? The more details you can give, the more help you'll get! Probably more than you need :) Good luck!
 
It's best to tune rpms with the primary clutch. If you are over-reving add weight (larger rivits in the weights) If you are over-reving at low speeds, add weight to the heel, ( the hole closest to the pivot bolt). If the over-rev is at higher speed's add weight to the tip of the weight. ;)!
 
The higher the degree of twist the longer it will stay in 1st gear so if your at 60 right now then thats stock so if you want more acceleration and pull on the low end then give it more twist i got a green spring at 80 with a 50/44 helix and it rips
 
I'm have 192 trail studs and on hard pack I tend to overrev out of the hole right through. I'm pulling at about 8500. It seems like I may need more weight in my primary or less spring force. I was kind of trying to avoid buying more weights so I was thinking I could help my overrev problem with the secondary. Right now I have Dalton 55.5 weights.
 
Are those a fixed weight, or can you adjust them? I forget...

Then for about 20 bucks you can get a primary spring to bring the rate down, keep the initial the same, but back off the rate by 1 step, should get you right in there...

What is in there now?
 
The Dalton weights are a fixed weight. The spring is also from Dalton. It was a setup they recommended for trail driving. Good backshift. I would like something a bit more aggressive though. What do you mean by "keep the initial the same"? Someone else also recommended this. If I change my spring will my engagement also change?
 
Springs have three specs. Preload, which is the pressure or tension measured with the clutch sheave at rest. Full shift pressure which what the spring measures at, when the sheave is shifted all the way into high ratio. Spring rate, which is how much tension the spring increases, per every mm of movement.
It's possible to keep the same engagement, but have less shift rpms, by selecting a spring with the same preload, but with less rate.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I may try the changing the spring then. Also, I considered going back to stock weight and adding a rivet or something. I'll do a search on here to see if I can find a good setup using my 51/43 helix and green yamaha secondary spring. I'm also going with a 22t top gear.
 
jay, your last statement is exactly my new setup.
22 T
51/43
stock red spring
my first trial last week resulted in over rev (8600-8700)
so i will be backing off from 90 to 80 or 70 and try that
8200-8300 is desired till full shift

next step will be to look into drive clutch springs and weights, but i have a lot to learn there.

Ramb
 
PM me with your exact clutching set up as it is now & the rpm,s you are running. I can get you close with minor changes. Allways 100% of the time for best results tune your rpm,s in the primary clutch by adding or subtracting weight then fine tune in the secondary. You guys can pm me at
brodam@westman.wave.ca
 
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