SRXRedline
New member
I have a 1998 SRX 700 that loves taking out plugs. I tried letting it ideal while feathering the choke, not using the throttle at all to warm it up but nothing seams to work. It has a can on it, air mod, jetted 3 or 4 sizes richer and I use BR9ES plugs. You guys have any suggestions, the sled was jetted that size when I bought it so I never touched them. A few people that I have talked to said the 1998's were tempermental when it came to plugs. I'm thinking maybe to buy different jets but what size or change to the recommended plugs, but doen't want to do the wrong thing.... Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance... 
skidooboy
New member
take the air box mod off, jet to stock use the correct br9ECS plugs and warm up correctly with choke only. it is the set up that is hard on plugs not the sled being hard on plugs. ski
SRXRedline
New member
yeah
Do you think if I drop a couple jet sizes that will help. I'd just like to get alittle more power out of her but don't want to take out plugs everysecond either, what would be the best set-up (jetting for sled) ....lol
Do you think if I drop a couple jet sizes that will help. I'd just like to get alittle more power out of her but don't want to take out plugs everysecond either, what would be the best set-up (jetting for sled) ....lol
I agree about the air mod!!!! Think about this??????? When its -30 outside and you have fresh air going right into your carbs, do you realize whats going on??????? THATS WHY the mfg of the air mod tells you to jet SOOOOOOOO fat... if you didn't jet as fat, your motor would burn up and you would put a post on here BASHING his BAD product...... Yamaha engineers and designers are a LOT SMARTER than 99.9% of the goofballs on this website (ME INCLUDED!!!) The sled runs FINE with the correct plugs and the correct airbox and the correct exhaust (it hurts me to say that last one!!!) If you go re- engineering yourself,,,naturally,,,unless you are a LOT smarter than YAMAHAS engineering department,,,,you will probably run into issues and problems!!!! Thats NOT TO SAY that Yamaha's engineers don't do some STUPID StUFF!!!!! Do you remember the 1981 SRX?????? NEED I SAY MORE?????? What about the crank in your 98 srx????? ANOTHER BAD IDEA!!!!!! COST yamaha a TON of money!!!!!! do yourself a favor and put the stock plugs and rejet accordingly!!! As far as the can goes,,, if it sounds better,,,leave it on!!!! Yamaha uses their exhaust to pass noise level standards.... other than that, its a waste of metal!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
SRXRedline
New member
O
Yeah I figured. I know all about the cranks in the 98's I replaced mine last year. O and did a complete motor job, cylinder piston's rings ect. I think I might run it allittle with the way it is and see how it works up against the other srx's around, If it launches past them then I'll deal with the odd plug fouling, if I get my *** handed to me well I'll have to lean her out a bit or put it back to stock. You want to play then as the old saying goes you have to pay. Thanks for the advice. O I geared it down a tooth for a little more bottom end I'm hoping it will work allittle better out of the hole and mid. Time will tell. There is only about 6" of snow here now. Not even a base yet. So hopefully in a couple weeks we'll get some more snow... happy sledding...
Yeah I figured. I know all about the cranks in the 98's I replaced mine last year. O and did a complete motor job, cylinder piston's rings ect. I think I might run it allittle with the way it is and see how it works up against the other srx's around, If it launches past them then I'll deal with the odd plug fouling, if I get my *** handed to me well I'll have to lean her out a bit or put it back to stock. You want to play then as the old saying goes you have to pay. Thanks for the advice. O I geared it down a tooth for a little more bottom end I'm hoping it will work allittle better out of the hole and mid. Time will tell. There is only about 6" of snow here now. Not even a base yet. So hopefully in a couple weeks we'll get some more snow... happy sledding...
adam4by4
New member
I Have The Same Set Up Running Cold Air Kit Jets To Match Bender Can V Force Reeds Mine Eats Plugs Too But Ive Found That After Warming Up For 3-4 Min I Ride Mine (gently ) And It Dosent Foul As Much !! Look Into Spark Plug Cleaner From Harbor Freight / Sears Ive Heard It Works Im Getting One Myself I Got About A Bucket Full Of Br9es Im Gonna Try And Like You Said Want The Extra 3-5 Horse Gotta Live With The Plugs Thing !!!
daman
New member
nosboy said:
wHAT HE SAID
One other thing you could try is running Autolites 1024's, the crossover for stock plugsThey cost less & run about a half a heat range hotter. If you want the sled to out run the pack put put a 20 or a 21 tooth in it with the 39. The 98's were geared way to tall. You'll still have good top end, & she'll really jump if you can hook it up!
SRXRedline
New member
yeah
yeah I geared it down 1 tooth for more bottom end for this year to try it out , had it out an hr ago, working well. I never fouled a plug either. Pulled twice on full choke, It started then feathered it back and forth with half choke. then took off easy and kept the rev's low for about 2 minutes while moving. And no plug foul, Now i'm smiling.
Alright this maybe a stupid question, the only time I foul plugs is when I'm idealing, when I first start my sled when it's cold. Not when I'm driving on the trail, Would the air ideal screw have something to do with fouling plugs at ideal, Is that what adjusts the fuel at ideal or what? It's not the end of the world if it was leaned out abit when you first start. Just when I'm moving I'd rather have it safe for the high rev's . Someone tell me I don't know what I'm talking about and go back to sleep....lol Thanks in advance for the info...
yeah I geared it down 1 tooth for more bottom end for this year to try it out , had it out an hr ago, working well. I never fouled a plug either. Pulled twice on full choke, It started then feathered it back and forth with half choke. then took off easy and kept the rev's low for about 2 minutes while moving. And no plug foul, Now i'm smiling.
Alright this maybe a stupid question, the only time I foul plugs is when I'm idealing, when I first start my sled when it's cold. Not when I'm driving on the trail, Would the air ideal screw have something to do with fouling plugs at ideal, Is that what adjusts the fuel at ideal or what? It's not the end of the world if it was leaned out abit when you first start. Just when I'm moving I'd rather have it safe for the high rev's . Someone tell me I don't know what I'm talking about and go back to sleep....lol Thanks in advance for the info...
yamaholic22
Active member
there is no air screw on yamaha's mikuni carbs, there is a fuel screw on the engine side of the float bowl. Get rid of the cold air kit, jet it stock, throw in br9ecs's and run it. Bet you won't lose any speed or ET taking that cold air kit off.
pilot jets control the fuel in the idle circuit. the screws on the side control slide height and the ones underneath control the air in the idle circuit..... richening up the air portion will not help you with fouling plugs at idle. its not that adjustable!!!! You MAY have a problem in your choke system or a cable that is not adjusted correctly... Maybe re-routed and causing the motor to be a little choked??????? maybe the choke cable needs a little wd40 sprayed in it and worked a little bit????? DID IT ALWAYS DO THAT or is it a somewhat NEW problem????? Gary Oles nosboy
yamaholic22
Active member
Again: THESE CARBS DO NOT HAVE AIR SCREWS! The screws on the bottom on the engine side of the floatbowls are FUEL screws. Those along with the pilot jets control the fuel at idle. The air JETS are in the carb throat.
My 98 did the same thing.I found the oil cable to be way out of wack, check it, it's easy to fix.
I would tend to agree about a cable problem,either the oil pump cable is set too rich or is not seating properly in the adjuster fitting or the choke rod and cable need to be set,cleaned or lubed.I have the service manual for the 98 and if you need this info I can scan it and email it to you just post here and I'll see what I can do.
Mine is stock(98 700) and have'nt had anywhere near the plug problems your having since I quite using Wynns oil.It was just too rich an oil for the SRX and once I switched to Yamalube the plug problems were gone.
I put a cold air kit on a buds 01 SRX and to my knowledge he does'nt have any plug issues so I'm not sure why your having such a hard time.
Mine is stock(98 700) and have'nt had anywhere near the plug problems your having since I quite using Wynns oil.It was just too rich an oil for the SRX and once I switched to Yamalube the plug problems were gone.
I put a cold air kit on a buds 01 SRX and to my knowledge he does'nt have any plug issues so I'm not sure why your having such a hard time.
SRXRedline
New member
nosboy said:
I've only had the sled for a year, and i've had the problem all along, I'll check and adjust the cables and lube the cable tonight and see what happens thanks
SRXRedline
New member
hey
Yeah if you could e-mail me the manual that would be perfect, I use the amsoil regular, has anyone found any difference in synthetic amsoil?
My email address is colin@roymac.com
fourbarrel said:
Yeah if you could e-mail me the manual that would be perfect, I use the amsoil regular, has anyone found any difference in synthetic amsoil?
My email address is colin@roymac.com
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yamaholic22
Active member
all amsoil is synthetic. The interceptor will keep your valves cleaner than the HP injector will though, it has a lot more detergents for just that reason.
SRXRedline
New member
O
O sorry I meant to say I use Yamalube regular, not the synthetic.
O sorry I meant to say I use Yamalube regular, not the synthetic.
yamaholic22
Active member
you mean 2S, the semi-synthetic?