synthetic oil/ Viper

T

tungsten

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What would be the best oil to run though my Viper? I heard synthetic oil is good for keeping the powervalves clean? Any truth to that?
Thanks
-Jeff
 
I tried Klotz in my Viper last year and after running 1500 miles power valves were gunked up worse than 2000 miles on Yamalube, and Klotz is $$. Too bad because it is made here in Ft. Wayne, IN and I wanted to support the local business.
 
CHROME: I could get into why your powervalves were more gunked up. I know you attribute it to KLOTZ, but, KLOYZ has NOTHING TO DO WITH IT....... Maybe Yamalube wore out your motor SO BAD, that ANY oil would have done that.... A worn out motor makes more "gunk" than a motor that is "correct" . Without getting into the detergent packages of Yamalube and KLOTZ, it is almost IMPOSSIBLE that YAMALUBE would, or EVEN COULD, make your motor cleaner than ANY synthetic lubricant!!!! ANY SYNTHETIC OIL,,,EVEN on its worst day, is a thousand percent better than Yamalube.... Search back to my post on the "skinny on Yamalube" ( a few months ago) and read for yourself!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
Does anyone have proof that yamalube is as bad as some people say? It seems that alot of people bash it. I'm just curious because I way switch to syt. too. Thanks
 
some people get 10k+ on their motors running yamalub the whole time, some hate the wear they get with synthetic, some swear by it. think it seems common sense that a full synthetic would be better then cit-ha or yama-go (yamalube made by citgo), but then again, seems like everyone has there own personal favorite. i know im gonna finish runnin yamalube this season, and try somethin else next season and see if there's any difference

on another note, in cars, to get the benefit of synthetic, you need to run it from day one (aka no sense running is 30k, 50k 100k down the road, need to run it from new to get the benefit) if you switch from dyno juice to syn in a car, its actually very possible that your oil consumption goes up! just curious if the same principle applies to a 2-stroke? obviously not more consumption, but just the idea that its the best to start from new?
 
Synthetic motor oil for 4 stroke automobiles is the consistency of a 10 weight oil... Considering you change to synthetics at 50,000 miles, you will have problems with oil leakage AND consumption... Synthetic is a LOT THINNER!!!! It will leak past the worn seals easier, and will get through the oil control rings easier!!! YOU HAVE TO start from new.... Synthetic oils are FAR SUPERIOR TO conventional oils!!!!! HANDS DOWN!!!! No question about it!!!! As far as starting from new with a 2 stroke motor,,,,It is preferred, but not necessary!!!! Yes, a 2 stroke motor will have worse compression now that it is worn, and the exhaust valves WILL BE significantly dirtier!!!! BUT,,, That is the lack of compression that is making them dirtier,,not the oil!!!!! A few posts ago, a guy complained of using KLOTZ and his valves were dirtier.... BELIEVE ME, If He would have started with a identical sled, started it off from NEW with KLOTZ, put it through the SAME torture,,,, the sled with KLOTZ would have 1/2 as dirty exhaust valves than the sled without KLOTZ!!!!! As a motor wears (significantly faster with yamalube) the volumetric efficiency goes down. As the efficiency goes down, the combustion residuals increase,,, thus "carbonizing the exhaust valves" (among other things) signficantly more than when it was NEW!!!! So, as it wears,,its gonna get dirtier.. THE TRICK IS NOT TO GET IT TO WEAR AS BAD!!!! Thats where synthetic oils come into play!!!! I WON'T USE AMSOIL!!!! Not because it doesn't work,,, quite the contrary,,,because of THEIR marketing strategy!!!! Its like their PIMPING it and letting ANYONE be a dealer!!!!! I use KLOTZ!!! Been usig it since the 1970's... IT WORKS FINE!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
nosboy,
are you suggesting then that there is no point in switching to synthetic if i have run yamalube from the onset.....5k in now. i am looking to change to reduce smoke and smell but i dont want to compromise performance or put the motor at risk...
 
Your motor at 5000 miles is probably very well worn.. Please do a compression check BOTH wet and dry to get some idea of its present condition.. A cylinder leak down detector is a great way of knowing just how your seal is!!! (piston to bore)... Am sled with 5000 miles WILL benefit from synthetic (making it last longer) BUT, synthetic from the get-go is the way to go!!! I re-ring my sled motors at 3000 miles (using yamalube) and the sleds that I have bought new and kept with synthetic, still run fine at 10,000 miles (no need to take them apart!!!!)..RESIDUALS from the combustion process have a LOT TO DO with a LOT of different variables... My girlfriend goes down the same trails that I do, puts on the same miles that I do, rides the same enviornment (weather) that I do, and burns the SAME OIL AND FUEL that I do, and her powervalves have to come out EVERY SEASON and be cleaned and MINE LOOK FINE!!!!! She has an 04 viper er and I have an 03...THE DRIVING HABITS also have a lot to do with it...I see a 2 foot hill and I need to get some air,,,while she see's it and slows down to an acceptable speed!!!! She drives my sled and MY powervalves get dirty!!!! She's never been faster than about 60mph on an open lake and I have time to take a nap waiting for her to catch up!!! AS FAR AS SUGGESTING THAT there IS NO POINT in switching after 5000 miles,,,well,,,you do the compression test and leakdown test and YOU BE THE JUDGE!!!!! Re-ringing your motor is pretty cheap ( a couple of hundred bucks) and she will run like new and last another 5000 miles (10,000 if you use synthetic)!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
I have been running Blue Marble oil in my sleds, dirt bike, and snowblower for 4 years now with nothing but great results. My local shop sells the gallon jugs for $29.99. I wont run anything else. But you dont have to take my word for it, just read the articles in the various sled mags listed on Blue Marble Independent Testing and Reviews Articles

If glowing reviews after extensive testing from 4 different sled mags is not enough to convince you to try it for a season then I dont know what to tell you.
 
nosboy said:
you do the compression test and leakdown test and YOU BE THE JUDGE!!!!!
Click to expand...

Thats the funny thing Gary, i just did a intense check up on my '95 vm
i did a comp. and leak down test both warm and cold and this was
my results;

Leak down @100psi.................... Comp.

Pto-3%(97psi)........................... 150psi

Mag-1%(99psi).......................... 150psi

I was shocked to see thes results with yamalube i thought for shure i
would be seen a lot lower numbers, but from what i'm seen yamalube
can't be too bad then, unless i'm missing somthing.

was thinking of going over to Amsoil because i know the benifits of Syn.
i use it in all my cars(Mobile1) but now i just don't know :o|

forgot the sled has 4,332 miles on it and Yamalube from day one!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
yamaholic22 said:
wow. Good numbers. Never been in that baby before?
Click to expand...

Nope NEVER been opened up,she's all stock funny thing is i was going to because of the milage but i'm just going to keep running her now.
 
It isn't so cut and dry as Yamalube Vs.KLOTZ!!!!! Some people only drive their sleds for 1 week straight and let it sit a month and then drive for another week straight and let it sit for a few weeks and then go for a few weekends and then put them away...... ( my driving habits) Others drive their sleds almost every day for 4 months!!!!! it has a LOT TO DO with a LOT OF VARIABLES,,,,, EVEN what color trailer you have and where it is parked!!!!! (moisture and condensation)... Very impressive numbers nevertheless!!!!! I'm SURE your sled would benefit from KLOTZ!!!!! I am NOT SAYING THAT YAMALUBE is a BAD OIL,,, I am saying that KLOTZ is a lot better!!!!! Synthetic oil has a better film strength and will stay on your parts and resist oxidation better than Yamalube!!!!! I haven't been on my sled in weeks!!! it's kinda hard to drive around in CHICAGO!!!!! (too many mexicans!!!) I will go for CHRISTMAS for 3 days and I won't go until the 2nd of Jan for a week.... Probably wont go until the beginning of February,, so you see,, I have a lot different driving habits than most!!! I usually put 1000 miles on a year,,,so,,,taking them apart every 3000 miles is like you taking your sled apart every 10,000 miles!!!! I have a white trailer that sees the sun every day and temps are consistently above 32deg,,,, so you see,,I have moisture issues also!!!!!! ITS NOT SO CUT AND DRY!!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
well tungsten, as far as keeping valves clean, yamalube and amsoil interceptor were the same in my two vipers. My wife and I put about 3000 miles on both sleds when we were comparing, one sled ran yamalube, the other amsoil. The powervalves on both were pretty gunked up after a 1000 miles. No difference... This was 100% trail riding in WI and upper MI.
 
DanQ said:
well tungsten, as far as keeping valves clean, yamalube and amsoil interceptor were the same in my two vipers. My wife and I put about 3000 miles on both sleds when we were comparing, one sled ran yamalube, the other amsoil. The powervalves on both were pretty gunked up after a 1000 miles. No difference... This was 100% trail riding in WI and upper MI.
Click to expand...
im a firm believer that oil isnt the factor in dirty valves, its the gas!
 
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