how to prevent w-arm (front pivot of rear suspension) from breaking again

how about the limiter straps? where should I set those? the sled is still apart at this point, so I want to know where to adjust everything before putting it back together. Will everything be easier to adjust while the weight of the sled is off of it? i.e. lift the rear of the sled (so track is off of ground) to adjust rear suspension preload and lift skis off of ground to adjust ski-shock pre-tension?
 
wisconsin said:
more transfer = softer ride? or what? I need the concept of transfer explained please.
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not necessarily...i didn't notice a softer ride when i swapped the washers around... all those rods do is put more weight to the back of the sled on take off to give you a better holeshot...i dont really know how to explain it al that well...
 
ok, so make the gap on top of the rear transfer rods as large as possible? I will have to check the current washer setup. The sled is at my uncles in his heated shop, so I won't be able to see it until tomorrow evening. Any ideas for the limiter straps?
 
ok, so make the gap on top of the rear transfer rods as large as possible? I will have to check the current washer setup. The sled is at my uncles in his heated shop, so I won't be able to see it until tomorrow evening. Any ideas for the limiter straps?
 
wisconsin said:
ok, so make the gap on top of the rear transfer rods as large as possible? I will have to check the current washer setup. The sled is at my uncles in his heated shop, so I won't be able to see it until tomorrow evening. Any ideas for the limiter straps?
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set the nut to the top line. that will give the best ride and keep the skis on the ground. i set the limiters so the rails sit as flat as possible on the ground.
 
wisconsin said:
what is the best way to tell when the shocks need a revalve? they look to be in good shape and are not leaking at all. Do you ever need to replace the springs?
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shocks should be rebuilt every 2-3 years. you only revalve if you dont like something about the ride (they need to open them to revalve them, so they get rebuilt at the same time). springs usually last a few years, i havent needed to replace any yet.
 
those were great tips. I will check the limiter straps (set the rails so they are flat on the gound) and adjust the control rods as I see fit. Those are adjustable by hand, so that should be all I need to set after I get the spring preload adjusted. Should the limiter straps be adjusted so that the rails are flat on the gound without any weight on the sled (i.e. me)?
 
wisconsin said:
those were great tips. I will check the limiter straps (set the rails so they are flat on the gound) and adjust the control rods as I see fit. Those are adjustable by hand, so that should be all I need to set after I get the spring preload adjusted. Should the limiter straps be adjusted so that the rails are flat on the gound without any weight on the sled (i.e. me)?
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i would sit on it and let it rebound by itself and then adjust it.
 
I see that a few wisconsinites are posting....does anyone around here (I live between milwaukee and madison) know how to set up clutches and jetting if I end up putting pipes on my sled before next winter? I want to get the accessories and maintenance done first, (mirrors, skid plate, etc.) and buy the performance stuff after winter when I can find some good deals on stuff. Pipes, clutch kit, reeds, newer track (hopefully ripsaw) I have been told you can stud a 1.25 if you switch to 8 tooth drivers.
 
not to step on anyone's toes here, but i just want to clarify something. More control rod gap will yield more weight transfer, and the reason is because it allows the suspension to couple at a later point in its travel, so the rear arm can compress independently of the front arm, and you get better weight transfer. Consequently, you also get a SOFTER ride out of it, not firmer. The reason is the same. When the suspension couples, the front and rear arms work together to resist bottoming, effectively stiffening up the ride. So more control rod gap on both ends (i.e. removing spacers) will yield a softer all around ride, but with more see-saw and kickback because the arms are allowed to work independently, and the suspension can "see-saw" over bumps. This makes the sled more unpredictable in the bumps, and it wont fly as flat.
As for setting up jetting and clutching, i could help you if you needed. I live southwest of milwaukee about 25 miles in waterford, and i go to school in madison.
 
yamaholic22 said:
not to step on anyone's toes here, but i just want to clarify something. More control rod gap will yield more weight transfer, and the reason is because it allows the suspension to couple at a later point in its travel, so the rear arm can compress independently of the front arm, and you get better weight transfer. Consequently, you also get a SOFTER ride out of it, not firmer. The reason is the same. When the suspension couples, the front and rear arms work together to resist bottoming, effectively stiffening up the ride. So more control rod gap on both ends (i.e. removing spacers) will yield a softer all around ride, but with more see-saw and kickback because the arms are allowed to work independently, and the suspension can "see-saw" over bumps. This makes the sled more unpredictable in the bumps, and it wont fly as flat.
As for setting up jetting and clutching, i could help you if you needed. I live southwest of milwaukee about 25 miles in waterford, and i go to school in madison.
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the less transfer and more gap i have on top the better it rides and the worse it transfers. maybe i have something funny going on. lol! more transfer=more lines showing right?
 
the higher you have the nuts turned up towards the carrier wheels the more transfer it will have.
 
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