HELP WANTED, Viper BOG here..

auji700triple

auji700triple

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May 2, 2005
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Labrador City,Canada
Guys im having a little problam with my piped, ported viper.. the thing works WELL but once omost 3/4 to a wot run the DCS light Comes on, so i slacked off and it went away Only when im 3/4 to a wot run it comes on, My clutching isn't adujusted so its reving up to about 8,600 rpms, and im guessing thats the timing spike so clutching is no big deal i can do that.. well try.. ... ALSO, this is the big proiblam, Everytime i let off the gas, the Rpms DROP FAST and theres HUGE BOG to it..., Or when i hit the break to slow down.. very weird, once it bogs i can't give it any more gas, if i do, the thing is bogging and bogging until i dont move.. BUT when i let it idle for a few seconds there is no bog, and i can Drive away normaly... its weird... So bascilly, its good until i have to slow down, and then it bogs Right out until i let it idle for a few seconds and let it go again. Very weird, is it because i might have my airbox on wrong?? or not Complelty onthe carbs? would it cause all that? and Plus, when it starts to bog, it kinda backfires and burps (not loud, but enough to hear it) i am not sure what is going on here. Any help would be awsome here!!
 

say im doing 100, and then i gota slow down, i got STOp before i can go again.. like it wont let me Slow down and GO again.. its BOG down, STOP wait, then GO again.. it bogs right to 0 kmh if i try and slow down and go again it is a bog monster, but when im just going it works INSANE.. ... im confused!
 
TORS??? i wouldn't know if that is the reason i never really heard of it before, and if so, how do i fix it?? Im trying to ad a Video, but www.putfile.com seems to be TAKING AGES to upload, any quick video players out there on the net so i can show you guys?
 
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You may have 2 issues that are unrelated. Can't help you with the light thing but it sounds like the clutching doesn't want to backshift. Check the driven pressure. I use the 70, 80 or 90 degree method but check with a fish scale to see how many pounds is required to cause driven to open. 12 - 15 lbs is a good place to start. A really hot secondary acts the same way. Spring goes soft from heat soak. Common in high HP low speed riding like mountain deep snow conditions. Hope this helps.
 
I am sorry but you provided not 1 bit of usefull information, what rpms is this?? what rpm does it engage at? when at what rpm does it bog?, is the clutch's smoking hot? what color are the spark plugs after you have run it for awhile? you guys have to post information in order for people to provide answers to questions, bog here and there and wont go doesnt tell me anything. Will help ya out but you have to be my eyes and ears and provide me with a map to navigate on............
 
im sorry by, gez... i just told you what the problam is, soon as i let go the gas, the rpms DROP insanly and when i want to hammer down again, it bogs OUT until i stop right where im too.. Let it idle for a few seconds and Hammer down then it goes on.... what is not provided? i am telling you what is happaning.. Plugs are brown, dosn't matter what rpm this happens, could be fast, slow.. you pick! just that when you start moving,and let the gas off the thing bogs out till you are not moving.. what else do you want me to tell you? the clutch is hot yes, this is due to bad clutching with this skidoo.. DCS light is cuz the thing is reving to around 8,500-8,700.. but thats ok i know what i have to do to fix that.. but this boging suituation i dont...
 
so you have pipes right? what brand? what is "this skidoo" mean?, what is the jetting in the motor right now?
 
don, he's canadian, all snowmobiles are considered skidoo's in the great white north. they even calling skidooing instead of snowmobiling.

auji, be careful on getting upset while asking for help on a problem. the more info you provide the more help you can get.

remember the printed word is harder to "understand" than the spoken word. what may read as harsh, may just be a simple question while spoken.

don has alot of expirience and can help but he (and all of us) do require more info to help you. it would be helpful to document the rpms on when it starts and finishes the problem.

the clutches are hot because they are not working efficiantly. the dcs light is not comming on cause it is reving 85-8700 (then sled was made to run there) the dcs light comes on due to the fact the motor sensor detects detonation (lean condition) it is retarding the timing to save your sled from damage.

if you put a new cable in it the tors (throttle over-ride system) couble be the problem. it works to prevent your sled from a sticking throttle in a carb icing situation. so as stated above it sounds like you have more than one issue you are dealing with.

be patient, we'lll help you. ski
 
Auji check your secondary bushings.... i changed my bushings in my clutched and it makes a world of a difference. The bushings can give you a bog too But usually the sled will make a little bit of a bog off the line then climb to peak rpm in mid and fall flat on it's face in top with rpms dropping. But thats my experience..... And isnt a viper supposed to be running around 8500 rpms and with a ported motor and pipes isnt it supposed to be a little bit more....
 
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If you don't have your airbox on right, that could be the cause of your DCS light. Of it is sucking air from arpound the carb mounts, it is leaning it way out, and detonating. Start with getting the airbox on right, then adjust the throttle cable to where you can see the cable move before the slides start to move. Try that first then get back to us. You could be detinating bad all through the power band and causing problems. Maxdlx
 
Bender Pipes, 170's across the board, and 90 pilots.. i dont have my egts yet so im runnin it fat.. ill go try the throttle cable, losen that up.. sorry for getting fustrated but ahh... lol i know why is detonationg, cuz the thing isn't supposed to run to 8,600 with pipes/Porting... isn't it supposed to run to 9,300?? but thas ok i can re-clutch, no big deal.. but the problam is i dont know what is causing the horrible bog once the throttle is let off...

I GOT IT.. GO HERE http://media.putfile.com/Movie2931
 
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ok, first thing first, take those pilot jets out, put in a set of 50's or 52.5, NOW, where are the needles set up at?

better check the throttle cable as it sounds like to me the tors was kicking in at the end of the video clip, or just bypass the 2 wires down at the carb rack and see if that helps it, will save you time.

the video thing is a good idea, can you take your buddy with camera along on back of sled and get the sled to do it again after you bypass the tors switch, its easier for me to listen to it and tell whats wrong then you to describe it to me. Its sounds very rich at the bottom end.

lastly, was there any headwork done to the sled?? peeling headgasket, aftermarket heads???
 
i will get back to you in another video but for now. are you sure too put those pilots in, i dont have any egts to tell me if im runnin lean or rich exept for plugs/Piston wash. and i can't afford a burn down now.. yes it probably is running rich low, but its not the problam... you heard it yourself. no there is no headwork done, just the stock viper head with the opti-cool gasket. i have never fooled with needles, or clips or anything.. everyhitng is stock.. needles are in the same place they were when i got it.. if that helps sorry im sketchy on the details. but before i installed the throttle cable last night the sled worked fine, no signs of Bog after letting off the gas... i will get another video clip asap..
 
adjust the throttle cable, and make sure the thumb throttle is returning all the way when you get off of the gas. It is either the tors, or those nasty big pilots. I ran 50 in my sx with PI end dumps with 1 layer peeled and it was the only spot in the whole throttle band that was fat. 90 are way to big. Max
 
no but .. Listen up... i took my sled out last year for only 20 mins cuz all the snow was gone.. it was a WARM day, and i ran 156.5's, and 90 PILOTS, had No problams with the bog after letting the gas off.. It has nothing to do with jetting. It worked Fine before with 90 pilots.. so i dont know.. i losend the throttle cable Still.. nothing
 
well theres a big problem there, the reason the light is going off(dcs) is the needles will be in the 3rd clip and that is stock(lean), you are trying to cover up the midrange lean spot with pilot jets, it cant be done!!

All carb circuits overlap each other but you cant make 1 circuit make up for another being off, so when your cruising at half throttle thats why the light blinks on the dcs. put in 50, or 52.5 pilot jets, move the needles to the 4th clip and run the same mains, see if it runs evenly then.

Just bypass the tors wires down at the carb rack for now. one will plug right into the other and bypass the switch, you can work on the correct cable tension later.
 
don, thats yuor name right? Mine is aj.. the Light is only going on by 3/4 trottle, well if you hold it there.. rpms shoot up to about 8,600 and stay there... isn't that why the DCS light is on?? because of the timing Spike?/ i woudnt know a whole Lot about Carbs anyways.. but what i Dont understand is.. that the SLED worked Fine before i put a new throttle Cable on, how do you get that?
 
AJ, bypass the tors wire down at the carb rack like I have told you, dont do another thing till you go out and bypass the wires....lol

the light is coming on because the needles are way too lean................!!!!!
3/4 throttle your on the needles!!
 
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