Waterfoul
New member
I want to try and get this thing figured out tomorrow if possible... so I'd really appreciate an answer to the above question.
Or should I bite the bullet and order all the parts over again and get what I though I was ordering the first time (8DF weights)??
Or should I bite the bullet and order all the parts over again and get what I though I was ordering the first time (8DF weights)??
bluewho
Active member
clutching is not something that can be fixed or perfected over your pc.if you have a problem with trying different wieghts or rivots and maybie have to take it apart again you are better to take it to someone that will do the work for you.
Waterfoul
New member
Waterfoul said:
OK, looks like we are heading to the UP this weekend...so this question still stands (see above) and I'll be taking an untested sled. I plan on bringing tools to do anything I might need to do. I have a spare set of the heavier rivets to swap out with the lighter rivets should I need to.
Set up as it is now (which is what the specs call for): 8CR's with a 3.1g inner and 4.5g outer rivet. Have a second set of 4.5's.
What will the heavier rivets do to the shifting and throttle response should I need to swap them out?
RJH
New member
No end - anyway....
Haven’t fooled with these in several years – so I don’t remember the specific face and weights. But…progressively – the rpm’s will pull down as you add more weight - closer to the tip. So…talking loosely …..what basically happens is …adding weight progressively towards the tip will pull the rpm down as opposed to putting in lighter weight which will let it rev.
I would leave the primary as it is to start for the weekend and play with the secondary. You may have some range depending on your current setting. If…it over revs – back off the secondary slightly and test that way. If it lugs (a sure way to seize the thing) tighten the secondary. Go a little extreme each way then fine tune after that.
You are saying that the ones you got for free are 4 G. heavier on the tip. If the profile is the same – and just changing the rivet …then the 17 will pull the top RPM down. Again…I would leave that and add two holes tighter on the secondary.
Hey – there will never be an end to clutching – there is no perfect setup!
Haven’t fooled with these in several years – so I don’t remember the specific face and weights. But…progressively – the rpm’s will pull down as you add more weight - closer to the tip. So…talking loosely …..what basically happens is …adding weight progressively towards the tip will pull the rpm down as opposed to putting in lighter weight which will let it rev.
I would leave the primary as it is to start for the weekend and play with the secondary. You may have some range depending on your current setting. If…it over revs – back off the secondary slightly and test that way. If it lugs (a sure way to seize the thing) tighten the secondary. Go a little extreme each way then fine tune after that.
You are saying that the ones you got for free are 4 G. heavier on the tip. If the profile is the same – and just changing the rivet …then the 17 will pull the top RPM down. Again…I would leave that and add two holes tighter on the secondary.
Hey – there will never be an end to clutching – there is no perfect setup!
hey foul, the 8cr's are about one and three quarters of a gram heavier than the 8 df's(1.750). to get close to what you had b4 weigh the weights and see what rivt combo u need to make the same. It should get you close to what u had b4.rpm wise anyway.
L84Work
New member
whew.. I am glad I left my clutches alone.