clutch experts: will this work?

Waterfoul

New member
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
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745
Age
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Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I've had this posted in the general discusion in a round about way, but thought I would put it here where some of the "tech heads" hang out.

First, some background: I'm trying to fix the clutch on my 97 V-max 600 XTC (no reverse, no electric start). Last year I took out a set of extremely worn 8DF weights and installed a set of 8CR weights given to me by a fellow TY member. Those 8CR weights are what the mannual calls for for my sled. In fact, the weights were taken from a wrecked sled of the identical year and model. They over rev easily (will run right up to 9000 rpm if you let it... and even higher I'm sure). I went to the dealer a week ago and ordered, I thought, a set of the 8DF weights and the proper rivets. Without really checking I pounded the rivets into my new weights and installed them. While installing the last one I notice that these NEW weights are another set of 8CR's, just like the ones I took out! BUT, I have put different rivets in these new ones... a 4.5 gram in the outer hole, and a 3.1 gram in the inner hole (again, this is what the manual calls for). The 8CR's I took out appear to have 3.1's in both holes. Will the extra weight of the bigger rivet get me down to the desired 7800-8000 rpm? Should I drill out the 3.1g rivets and replace them with another set of 4.5's???? Even if this extra rivet weight gets me to the right RPM, will the slightly different cam profile of the 8CR affect my throttle response or shifting?

Or, should I bite the bullet and order a set of 8DF weights and rivets because I know these worked before they wore out? I'd really like to not do this as the $81 a set for these things will really bite into my snowmobile riding fund!

By the way, I ride in Michigan, so elevation is not an issue. Black primary spring, red secondary spring. As far as I know, this sled it totaly stock (was owned by a friend who's wife was the only one who drove it... and she isn't into going fast at all).

Pictures: On the right is the wieght chart from TY... red circle is what's in it now, blue circle is what was in last year and worked. Left is the old worn out weight on top (cleaner one) bottom ones are the ones I was given free and just took out (same profile as the ones I just put in, but different rivets).
 

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Your sled is supposed to have 8cr weights. You will overrev unless you change to the larger rivet. The 8df,s were put in by some one else & are not the proper weights for that sled.
 
Thanks Turk. I was at a different dealer today and talked to their clutch guy for a while. He told me that if I still issues to try a green A-cat spring. I bought one just in case (only $10 and I can bring it back if need be).

Are you saying I should still take out the lighter inner weight and replace it with the heavier one? Making it 4.5g in each hole? Or should I leave it the way it is (manual specs) and give it a try?

Man I wish there was snow!!!! AAGGHHHH!
 
Take back that spring & get your money back. Run a 4.5 gram inner rivet & a 2.4 gram outer rivet with the stock primary spring. Rpm,s will be close.I can,t tell you any more! Manual specs a 4.5 gram inner rivet & a 2.4 gram outer. You may overev if you are using the new 8dn belt.
 
Last question Turk.... promise!

When you say "inner" hole do you mean the one with the blue arrow or red arrow? I just want to make sure I get it right. Inner meaning towards the drive shaft (end of the weight when installed in the clutch) or inner meaning towards the pivot point of the weight.
 

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