lets take a look at clutching various ways here, you can have the same results doing things differnt ways when it comes to clutching, big heavy weights, small helix, or you can have the same result, rpm,speed,et,etc with a set up of small weights and a big helix.
The differance is 1 of the set ups will do something better or worse then the other set up will somewhere in the powerband, I am talking about backshift, clutch temps, etc.
There is more then 1 way to skin a cat!!
Remember, if the clutch is hot its telling you it needs attention!!, if its hot in the primary, then you need help in the primary, same with secondary. Just because the tach reads whatever your rpm peak is at wide open throttle, doesnt mean its efficent at transmitting the power to the track, cooler clutch's are slipping less then hot ones are, simple fact.
small helix angles grab the belt harder, they apply more grip to the belt
heavier weights grab the belt harder, but they also require more primary spring force to obtain the correct rpm.
the engine rpm is controlled by the primary, not the secondary, the secondary is to controll the shift.
when using heel clicker weights, you will obtain better results using more tip weight and shallower finish angles. The weights act like a progressive angle helix and upshift very quickly.
a softer primary spring will upshift the clutch's at a faster rate, thus you will need less intial shift angle on your secondary helix, you will use slightly less weight in the primary as well.
when on SNOW, try to keep your engagement speed around 4000rpm, much more and no matter what track you have, your losing traction from a dead stop holeshot.
your gearing plays a role in clutching, the steeper(higher number) a sled is geared the easier it is to pull more weight in the clutch, you make the load easier on the engine, the same thing goes the other way, the less gearing (lower number)you have the more you lean on the motor in the way of load, so if you have a high torq motor you wouldnt want to run it geared real steep.
a softer secondary spring is faster on topend then a stiff one is, you only want enough secondary pressure applied to keep the belt from slipping, you only want to controll the shift, not over power it! anymore then that and the secondary clutch fights the primary by trying to backshift and pull the belt down to a lower ratio. Roller secondary clutch's are the opposite, they require alot of secondary spring, they try to upshift very quickly, you need to use shallower helix's with these, the main problem with rollers over buttons is they try to backshift while on topend, so your topspeed will be slightly less, but they backshift so good, average trail riding is absolutley awesome, throttle response from the engine is drasticly improved.
keep notes as to what weight/spring combo did what, at what rpm, same with your helix/springs, at what twist it did what?, the better you keep notes, the less time you will spend trying things you have already done with either better or worse results. The guy with the best notes, is the guy who wins consitantly at the races, you gotta get out there and test,test,test.
just kidding. i got all the weight possible in the shoulder around 5 grams which is another reason it hauls so hard on bottom. also stock secondary spring. not exactly sure of the speed we run 660' here and i never got the slips at the track this weekend.
