yamyrider
Active member
Is there a good step by step "how to" for setting the needles.
I am running a little lean in the mid range and want to change the needles .5
Pictures would be very helpful.
I am running a little lean in the mid range and want to change the needles .5
Pictures would be very helpful.
Check the tech section there is a picture in there, pretty easy need a special tool though.
not really a special tool, but you do need a 2.5mm allen ball head wrench to get the screws out.
yamyrider
Active member
I have the allen key to remove the 2 screws. That part is easy.
What else has to come out to remove the needle jet so I can move the clip.
Does the throttle level have to come out and do I need to resync after.
Thanks for the replies guys.
What else has to come out to remove the needle jet so I can move the clip.
Does the throttle level have to come out and do I need to resync after.
Thanks for the replies guys.
BigMac
New member
yamyrider said:I have the allen key to remove the 2 screws. That part is easy.
What else has to come out to remove the needle jet so I can move the clip.
Does the throttle level have to come out and do I need to resync after.
Thanks for the replies guys.
You don't need to re-sync unless you detach any of the individual carbs from the bank. For just changing needles, you don't even need to remove the air box or detach the carbs at all.
You zip-tie your throttle at full throttle. You unscrew #9 (there are 2) with your ball head 2.5mm hex wrench. The slide with needle in it will fall to the bottom of the carb. You will have to slide #6 (with #10 attached) off of #5. A medium sized hemostat really helps a lot for that, and especially for getting it back on. You can now see the slide (#7) at the bottom of the carb with the needle in the center. Reach in with your hemostat and pull the needle out. Be careful because the shim (if they're underneath the e-clip) may stick to the slide.
Reassembly, slide #6 (with #10 still attached) back onto #5...etc. Be careful not to strip #9 when you are reattaching it to the slide.
Do yourself a couple of favors...
- get a hemostat - sold especially at fishing stores
- buy some extra e- clips (they will fly off and you'll lose them)
- buy some extra Yamaha shims for the needle - they're very fragile
- replace all the phillips-head screws, especially the 4 on the float bowl, with socket-head cap screws of the same length (approximately). You will eventially bugger up the butter-soft phillips screws. The socket head cap screws are available at most hardware stores and are M5 with .80 pitch.

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yamyrider
Active member
Thanks for the detailed description Mac.
Now I dont have to remove any uneccesary parts.
I was not sure what had to be removed to get to the needles.
Now I dont have to remove any uneccesary parts.
I was not sure what had to be removed to get to the needles.
BigMac
New member
yamyrider said:Thanks for the detailed description Mac.
Now I dont have to remove any uneccesary parts.
I was not sure what had to be removed to get to the needles.
Couple of things to clarify--
- The M5 .80 socket head cap screws I suggested for the float bowl are metric (obviously).
- A sharp dental pick or similar is useful for getting the shims off the slide if they stick to it.
- The shims are very fragile, and they're kind of a transparent white - might be hard to see. Don't try to grab any of them with the hemostat.
- If you can't get to the needle with your hemostat while it's at the bottom of the carb, it's conceivable you'd need to pull the lid off the airbox to reach your finger into the carb throat and lift the slide upward.
- The needles are aluminum - don't gouge them when you grab them with the hemostat, and be careful not to bend them when you carefully pull them out of the slide.
- AKAIK, the e-clips and shims are Yamaha proprietary (or Mikuni) and you might be surprised at how much they cost from your Yamaha dealer.
- If you don't have extra shims or e-clips - be very, very careful. I've spent a fair amount of time with a magnet scouring the shop floor looking for one that flew off to god-knows-where.
- Make sure you have two shims for each needle when you reassemble. If you don't, you lost one in there somewhere and you'd better find it. If it did stick to the top of the slide or underneath the plate that screws to the slide, your needle position won't be what you thought it was.
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yamyrider
Active member
Hey Mac,
Your instructions were great. I went in the garage at 4:30 and was in with my hands washed by 5:10, tools put away and ready go test out the needle setting. 40 minutes to take out the tools follow your instructions and raised the needles put tools away, washed my hands and sat at the computer.
Once again than you for the details and instructions.
I raises on full clip but it is so easy to do that If I am to rich now there is no problem to lower by .5.
I was runing a little to lean with my tripple pipes for my liking.
Your instructions were great. I went in the garage at 4:30 and was in with my hands washed by 5:10, tools put away and ready go test out the needle setting. 40 minutes to take out the tools follow your instructions and raised the needles put tools away, washed my hands and sat at the computer.
Once again than you for the details and instructions.
I raises on full clip but it is so easy to do that If I am to rich now there is no problem to lower by .5.
I was runing a little to lean with my tripple pipes for my liking.