big trouble on clutch vmax 600

Yamaha_mod

New member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
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13
Location
Sweden
today when i was gonna change wheigts a made a terrable discovery when i turn round the clutch, something fell down in the belly

pic1333077


It´s one of the slidingthing
looked som closer to it and saw that all of the 3 hade broken off, found one other and one is gone. how does this problem come upp, what made them brake off.

a mystery to me? and how do I get the "cross" (the thing they sit on =)) off theclutch, at de explosionview it looked to be skrewed on??

pic1333075

pic1333076
picture
picture2
 
Last edited:
Well do you have a digital camera? take a pic but do it on a low setting or the site will not accept it, Load the pic into you computer , name the file, post on the site , at the bottom of your post it says manage attachments click on that, Then" browse" will appear, click on browse, find your file, then the pic, click on the pic & your done!
Yamaha_mod said:
how do i post pictures ??
 
Wow, what would cause that?

The "cross" is the spider. Yes it is screwed on to the bottom helix. 150 or 180 ft/lbs = very tight, plus Loctite thread-locker. To break it loose: heat the thread area to 250°F, use special tools to hold the bottom helix while using a breaker-bar + special tools on the spider. THREADS ARE LEFT-HAND. Turn CLOCKWISE to break.

I made a set of tools myself:

The bottom helix has three holes in it. The holes are at 120° intervals on a 50mm radius circle.

I drew a 100mm diameter circle on paper, marked 3 points at 120° intervals, and then used a punch to marK the points on a piece of 1/8" steel plate. Drill holes. Cut a ring-shank (large nail) so that 3/4" of shaft remains below head of nail. Beat nails into holes in plate, weld in place. Put the plate on a bench, drill two keeper holes through plate and bench, install bolts or pins to prevent plate from spinning. Put clutch on plate, then tie it down tight with a ratchet strap that makes one loop around the center shaft of the clutch and then passes under the bench or ties to bench legs. The clutch needs to be locked down tight to a fixed bench. We tied one to a welding table once, but could not break the clutch because the welding table was moving.

Remove the outer cover and spring from the clutch.

Then make a tool which engages the spider WITHOUT TOUCHING OR DAMAGING the bearing surface of the center shaft. I used 1/4" plate for a 30"x2" handle, with a 5" square of 1/8" plate welded flat to one end. Drill or cut a large hole in the center for passing over center shaft of clutch. Drill 6 smaller holes at appropriatre location to weld heavy bolts or pins (approx 3" long) into 5" square. These pins engage the spider very near to where yours broke.

Which is why I was wondering how yours broke?

Anybody seen this before?
 
baker said:
Wow, what would cause that?

The "cross" is the spider. Yes it is screwed on to the bottom helix. 150 or 180 ft/lbs = very tight, plus Loctite thread-locker. To break it loose: heat the thread area to 250°F, use special tools to hold the bottom helix while using a breaker-bar + special tools on the spider. THREADS ARE LEFT-HAND. Turn CLOCKWISE to break.

I made a set of tools myself:

The bottom helix has three holes in it. The holes are at 120° intervals on a 50mm radius circle.

I drew a 100mm diameter circle on paper, marked 3 points at 120° intervals, and then used a punch to marK the points on a piece of 1/8" steel plate. Drill holes. Cut a ring-shank (large nail) so that 3/4" of shaft remains below head of nail. Beat nails into holes in plate, weld in place. Put the plate on a bench, drill two keeper holes through plate and bench, install bolts or pins to prevent plate from spinning. Put clutch on plate, then tie it down tight with a ratchet strap that makes one loop around the center shaft of the clutch and then passes under the bench or ties to bench legs. The clutch needs to be locked down tight to a fixed bench. We tied one to a welding table once, but could not break the clutch because the welding table was moving.

Remove the outer cover and spring from the clutch.

Then make a tool which engages the spider WITHOUT TOUCHING OR DAMAGING the bearing surface of the center shaft. I used 1/4" plate for a 30"x2" handle, with a 5" square of 1/8" plate welded flat to one end. Drill or cut a large hole in the center for passing over center shaft of clutch. Drill 6 smaller holes at appropriatre location to weld heavy bolts or pins (approx 3" long) into 5" square. These pins engage the spider very near to where yours broke.

Which is why I was wondering how yours broke?

Anybody seen this before?


Thanks to a very good answer, have come out whit the idea of the tools me to after some brainstorming and someone here told me to ... but i have never seen this sort of brakedown before, i wonder why this happend ???. maybe the bearing and spyderslidingthing =) was worn out that made the spyder to move bak and forward a bit all the time?? i dont know. one bright side of all, is that i get everything totalrenovated :P

how the heck does this happen, and what does ha new spyder comes out to?
 
Hmmmmm...ive never seen that happen eather,was someone prying in ther
to hold the sheve for some reason.
 


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