clutch set-up

C

Canadiyama

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Jan 7, 2006
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hey guys, I know this has been done over a thousand times but I'd like some tips on setting up the clutch on my 01 SRX 700. It's all stock so far except for a 1 inch track and 96 studs up the center. I weight about 235 and do mostly trail riding and would like to do some drag racing on the ice. What can I do to give my buddies Mach Z a run for the money......thanks in advance for your replies
 
setup in tech pages

51/43 Helix, 8-bu weights w/3.6g rivets in tip and 2.4g in 1st hole, WWW primary spring, Green secondary spring.
Got this one from the tech pages, suppose to be very good! your gonna need the 8bu's to handle that mach. I believe this is yamigods setup, maybe he has some input?
 
was looking in the tech section and was wondering if I need the short primary spring or the long one......just need part numbers and didn't realise there was a short and long primary spring

Also I don't want to change the flyweights in my 01.....I just want to change the rivets, helix and springs
 
I intalled 4.5 grams to the heel hole on the stock weights, bought a yamaha www spring ( long, short, don't know) got the right one by saying WWW.
changed top gear from 23T to 22T
added a 51/43 helix with stock red secondary spring wound to 70

before: eaten alive by 800HO Skidoo Rev
after: walked away from 3 800 RevHo's, one with some clutch work and reeds

I have a 1" with studs
I weight 185.

some use the green secondary instead of the stock red.

Ramb
 
all srx 98-02 use the long spring cover. use the clutch set up ramb has listed, its all you need.
 
2001 SRX clutch set-up

Here is what I use. It's a set-up from YAMMIEGOD.

Stock weights, W W W primary spring, 50/40 helix with green spring at 2/6.

I installed this recently and it is a great trail riding set-up.
For strictly racing contact YAMMIEGOD
 
thanks for the replies.....I was thinking of using 4.5 gr. rivets in both holes, the y/s/y spring, 51/43 helix and the green secondary spring. This seems to be the set-up I've seen posted the most. Would this be good for trail riding with the occasional race thrown in there, or is the set-up Rambunctious offered all that I need?
 
the only differance in the set up is one has more engagement rpm then the other, the y/s/y spring has a nice low engagement around 37-3800rpm, the w/w/w spring is around 4100-4200. pick your choice
 
I have pretty much this setup and I am getting the same results as Rambunctious. Once you have this setup in, there probably wont be any stock sled out there that will be able to beat you in a race. I personally went with the WWW spring and I wouldnt want my engagement to be any lower than what it is. If you got decent traction you should go with the WWW. Thats my opinion anyways.
 
the only question I , and blue flash have, is how green vs red will perform.
Blueflash will be testing both springs this weekend ( right BF?) and then we will know how each performs in comparison.

Ramb

and "my" setup is really just mrvipers/Turks advice. and prolly the cheapest way to go
I just learned all this in the last 30 days, and applied it to whoop 3 Rev800Ho's last weekend :o)
 
I can't see why it wouldn't, you'll probably just have to add some more weight to the 8bu00s because your 780 will have more power. Try it first and see what your rpms are and then adjust from there.
 
blueflash said:
I have pretty much this setup and I am getting the same results as Rambunctious. Once you have this setup in, there probably wont be any stock sled out there that will be able to beat you in a race. I personally went with the WWW spring and I wouldnt want my engagement to be any lower than what it is. If you got decent traction you should go with the WWW. Thats my opinion anyways.
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Are you talking about Rambunctious' set-up or something different?

Also, I think I saw this posted once that someone had just tapped their rivet holes out with a 1/4-28 tap so they could use bolts and set screws for weight's. Is the hole the right size for the tap or do you need the tap drill? I guess if I had to drill the hole out then that may change the weight of the arm form stock.....maybe.
 
mrtahoe said:
Cool - when changing gearing, is it better to change the small gear in lieu of the large gear?
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cheaper to change the top gear to smaller one than the bottom gear to a bigger one.
 
Canadiyama said:
Are you talking about Rambunctious' set-up or something different?

Also, I think I saw this posted once that someone had just tapped their rivet holes out with a 1/4-28 tap so they could use bolts and set screws for weight's. Is the hole the right size for the tap or do you need the tap drill? I guess if I had to drill the hole out then that may change the weight of the arm form stock.....maybe.
Click to expand...


Anybody!!!
 
Just about pounded this setup into the ground, just try it out and see if you like it. Plan on breaking a tap if you try threading out a yami weight, they are very hard! Possible only if you use a new tap for every hole.
 
a 1/4"x28 tap goes right in a yamaha weight, very easily, never broke a tap yet. Its not cutting full deep threads, but allows you to simply run bolts and nuts for weight instead of rivets, and its a major time saver if you need over 4 grams in a hole, just use hardware store 1/4 x 28 bolts and nuts and a gram scale and its very simple. I thread all my weights, just in case in the future I run them on something that needs more weight then a rivet will provide. The most common use is in the 8bu-00 tips because you need to add alot of weight to do any good on topend with them and the 8dn-20's, I run those very heavy.
 
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