Synaptic3e
New member
Fixed Mine!
OK...so I had the same exact symptoms as the OP and I took a good look at my machine tonight before beating the bag out of it. The engine mount in front of the primary clutch was loose which caused the engine to pitch and the starter ring gear would contact the rivets above the ring gear. The sled had to be under load to make it happen to generate enough torque to pitch the engine ( which is why 50% - 100% throttle is needed to make it happen). I was completly missing one bolt where the mount bolts to the block and the other was half out. I replaced one bolt and tightened the other and all is right with my Viper .... hope this helps someone else....just grab the front clutch and see how easy it is to move your engine...if its loose it will be very obvious.
OK...so I had the same exact symptoms as the OP and I took a good look at my machine tonight before beating the bag out of it. The engine mount in front of the primary clutch was loose which caused the engine to pitch and the starter ring gear would contact the rivets above the ring gear. The sled had to be under load to make it happen to generate enough torque to pitch the engine ( which is why 50% - 100% throttle is needed to make it happen). I was completly missing one bolt where the mount bolts to the block and the other was half out. I replaced one bolt and tightened the other and all is right with my Viper .... hope this helps someone else....just grab the front clutch and see how easy it is to move your engine...if its loose it will be very obvious.
Stephfg
New member
this happened to my SRX at 10,000 kms. It felt "boggy" as I rode it, felt like no power. We lifted the track to check it out and that's when we saw sparks coming out. The jackshaft bearing had come apart and had chewed the outside of the sliding sheave on my secondary. I changed the sliding sheave and bearing.
I no longer user bearings with set screws. They don't stay in place. I use collar lock bearings instead. It's basically two pieces and you lock one piece onto the other. The one for the jackshaft is: rae25rrb and the one for the drive shaft is rae25rr. I used Timken or Fafnir. These are metric. I got the ones for a 1" shaft by mistake (different part number) and they wouldn't stay in place because of the .4mm difference, so make sure you use the part number.
I no longer user bearings with set screws. They don't stay in place. I use collar lock bearings instead. It's basically two pieces and you lock one piece onto the other. The one for the jackshaft is: rae25rrb and the one for the drive shaft is rae25rr. I used Timken or Fafnir. These are metric. I got the ones for a 1" shaft by mistake (different part number) and they wouldn't stay in place because of the .4mm difference, so make sure you use the part number.
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hereismylife
Active member
Stephfg said:
So how is this holding up so far?
Stephfg
New member
holding up great. Once they're locked, they don't move. I won't use anything else now. My riding buddy told me about them. He'd been using them for a while. That's what I installed on my Dad's as well.
hereismylife
Active member
Good deal thanks 
Stephfg said:
Are these the two piece cam lock type found on Polaris drive shafts? I think my SRX drive shaft (speedo side) has it also. And your also using them on the jackshaft, correct?
Stephfg
New member
correct, they are two piece cam lock type. I don't know what Polaris uses. Yes, I also use them on the jackshaft.