Re-jet for thinner head gasket?

Waterfoul

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Recenlty put a new jug and piston on my 97 V Max 600 twin. Old gasket (stock) measured .64 on my caliper. New Cometic gasket measures .32" That's half as thick! I can't remember what jets I'm running, but I believe they are just under the stock jets... should I jet up (bigger jet, more fuel) for the thinner gasket or jet down? Leave it alone?

Burn down has been attributed to coolant in the cylinder.
 
wish i could help on this one...i know you'll need to run high octane gas...but for jets i'm not sure...i only had thinned headgasket for about 40miles and 2 of the 3 went for a crap...12000 kms, not cuz it was a bad mod...

someone else should be able to help you out more then me
 
Yeah, I'll be siphoning the gas that's in it out when I get home tonight... then mixing a gallon or so of premium at 50:1 and putting that in for a short break in on the new parts. Then premium from this point on.
 
Bigmax said:
Better check your squish to make sure you're within an acceptable amount...

Hmmm...the tech section doesn't mention anything about squish after the
HG mod, i think thats just if you shave your head. But i'm not shure.
 
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According to the techs at Dennis Kirk, the gasket I installed is the stock replacement for the one I had... just thinner. As for squish... how in the world do you check that on a two stroke?
 
You can check it with solder... get some solder that is say .070" - .080". Take a piece around 6 inches long, bend it into an L with one leg that is the distance from the center of the spark plug hole to the edge of the cylinder. Then you insert this L down into your cylinder through the spark plug hole, line it up so that it's parallel to the wrist pin, and touching the cylinder wall. Now while holding it with one hand use your other hand to rotate the primary clutch until you cross over TDC, smashing the solder between the piston and the head. Now remove the solder from the cylinder and measure the thickness... this is your squish. I've heard it said for a trail sled you want to be at 55-thousandths (.055") or more.

It's quick and easy to check... so why not? I know if I hadn't checked mine after I burned down and replaced the top end from another motor... I would have got to do it again because the squish was only .040".
 
Bigmax said:
You can check it with solder... get some solder that is say .070" - .080". Take a piece around 6 inches long, bend it into an L with one leg that is the distance from the center of the spark plug hole to the edge of the cylinder. Then you insert this L down into your cylinder through the spark plug hole, line it up so that it's parallel to the wrist pin, and touching the cylinder wall. Now while holding it with one hand use your other hand to rotate the primary clutch until you cross over TDC, smashing the solder between the piston and the head. Now remove the solder from the cylinder and measure the thickness... this is your squish. I've heard it said for a trail sled you want to be at 55-thousandths (.055") or more.

It's quick and easy to check... so why not? I know if I hadn't checked mine after I burned down and replaced the top end from another motor... I would have got to do it again because the squish was only .040".

Cool.....thanks for that info. ;)!
 
daman said:
Cool.....thanks for that info. ;)!

OK, but.... if you check the tech section the head gasket mod recomended for several sleds (mine included) basically makes this thinner gasket out of the stock one... no squish check mentioned, no re-jetting mentioned. Just use premium fuel.
 
Waterfoul said:
OK, but.... if you check the tech section the head gasket mod recomended for several sleds (mine included) basically makes this thinner gasket out of the stock one... no squish check mentioned, no re-jetting mentioned. Just use premium fuel.

Yup..thats what i talked about in my post #5
 
Do what you think is right for you. But, it's just a safety measure to ensure that things are right. Use .090 non acid solder. Use two pieces across the top of the piston where the wrist pin is. This would be left side and right side. Using one piece may cause the piston to "rock" in the cylinder, thus causing a false reading. Tightening the squish will cause more heat, therefore your jetting should change. Sometimes the info you don't get may get you into trouble. Better to upjet and be safe than stay where you are and replace pistons later. Just my thoughts.
 
i took 2 layers off my 500 and then (i think) anotehr .01 or so was shaved off and only brought me to .057. squish on a non power vlave with just doing teh head gasket shouldnt be a problem
 
You don't have to change the jetting. You will have to run higher octane fuel.
I changed to the thinner head gasket years ago. Actually my dealer did it for free after it was broke in.
If you had the normal gasket in there before, you will definitely feel the difference. Way more responsive.
I will check tomorrow on the thickness. From memory I think I used a .6mm gasket. But that is only .0236".
The one you are using (.032" or .8mm) would be thicker.

Oh and this is on my '98 600

Updated................
I just looked up the paperwork on the gasket. The one I have used is a .6mm
Yamaha part #8CA-11181-00-XX
So if you are using the thicker one, I wouldn't worry about any problems.
 
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