nosnownogo!
New member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2004
- Messages
- 37
I have a v-max 600 with GYT pipes on it. A while ago I had some posts up here looking for some help with lack of top end, well it turnned out to be the pipes.... Riding is not the same with original exhaust. So my question is has anyone ever cleaned a can before? I think that it is just a carbon build up in there. How do I go about this, and can the baffle material be changed,or removed and what will this do the motor other than making it very loud....
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Exciter570
Member
That's really weird that your pipes are restricted by carbon build up, I've never heard of that happening before, but there's a 1st time for everything. I would blow some compresses air through them to blow them out. What were you topping out at. My top end with GYT twins is about 90 on the speedo, but I do have a long travel skid on the rear. With stock pipe and stock rear skid I have seen about 103 on the speedo in perfect conditions, but 90-95 was more normal.
Yamanewf
New member
If you are going to clean out your exhaust use a couple of cans of brake cleaner. That stuff would peel the enamel off your teeth. That should release any sediment and oil residue.
nosnownogo!
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- Jan 26, 2004
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Sled use to top out at 90-95 depending on conditions. I've opened the can and found a very black carbonated fiberglass material in there.. the inside of the can is not too bad. So I'm thinking it must be the glass material. Do you think I could remove or replace this material?
That's the fiberglass packing for the silencer. Yes you can replace it.nosnownogo! said:
Search around for silencer packing. You'll find a ton of sled and cycle shops sell it.
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nosnownogo!
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- Jan 26, 2004
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Thanks for the info guys, but it gets better yet. I have removed the fiberglass totally for the can and reinstalled the pipes to see what this would do. And other that being slightly louder, it diden't seem to make a difference.
I still have no responce and motor will not rev up. I've checked both clutches with the sled in the air and both seem to working and sled will rev with the track off the ground. Could this be a fuel pump problem . How do I check fuel pressure and what should it be....I going nuts with this........
I still have no responce and motor will not rev up. I've checked both clutches with the sled in the air and both seem to working and sled will rev with the track off the ground. Could this be a fuel pump problem . How do I check fuel pressure and what should it be....I going nuts with this........
Yamanewf
New member
Hold up. back to basics first. Engine is in good order? Compression, plugs, no restriction in air filter side, carbs in good order, reeds, throttle cable. Do a few checks. remove your drive belt. Try to determine if it it engine related or drivetrain related.
nosnownogo!
New member
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- Jan 26, 2004
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- 37
So far I have removed the carb and fully cleanned (dirty) checked reeds while in there, reeds look fine but I think they might be original (10000 kms) nothing in air box (cleaned) two new sets of plugs (just in case) and last weekend I tore her down and replaced rings (compression was a bit low,better now) and honned the cylinders costing me $300.00 and change, with no improvement... I can't isolate the motor be cause it seem to run fine without a load.. The only thing left I can think of is the fuel pump..
baker
New member
Yah, you need to slow down & start from the basics like newf said.
The way this post started, it sounded like you had some kind of newly discovered exhaust blockage. Now it just sounds like a simple problem that takes common sense to figger out.
Your plugs have to be in serviceable condition with proper gap. You have to open the airbox to see if there's a mouse nest or other blockage. You have to see the reeds to know whether they are serviceable. You have to check compression to know whether the engine is shot. You have to completely disassemble the carbs to clean the bowl & throat, & pilot & main circuits, & adjust the float bowl height & inspect the float needle and seat, & inspect the main needle & check the clip position, and be sure that pilot passages are not blocked and that tiny spring-washer-o-ring under pilot air screw hasn't been lost. You must be jetted and set up properly. Get expert recommendation for jets, then confirm that you have the proper main and pilot jet sizes, and that the needle clip is in the 2 or 3 position. Start with the air screws 1.5 turns out, tune from there. You can verify fuel pump operation by having a buddy crank the motor while you hold your finger over the fuel hose trying to block it. If fuel squirts past a tight "finger-cap", pump is good. You have to be sure there is spark. Pull plug, put cable on it, hold it 1/16" away from conductive surface of head, crank motor. See if a spark jumps across to the head. Don't do this with gas spilled everywhere. You have to be sure there's not a vac leak at the carbs or water pump shaft or other typical locations. Use starter fluid: get sled running, spray little bursts all around each carb. If it revs up suddenly, that's because it sucked starter fluid in through a vac leak. Do the same test at the water pump shaft seal and other possible leak aveneues. If you find a vac leak, fix it.
Your clutch has to be serviceable. This means good bushings in both clutches, good weights and rollers and pins and spring in primary with no wear dimples in the weight profiles, and good spring and buttons in the rear. Springs must be set in proper holes.
The problem you describe could be caused by bad pilot circuit, bad main circuit, bad float system, wrong float level, vac leak, bad plugs, blown motor, bad fuel pump, bad fuel, water in fuel, bad clutch, blocked air intake, or bad karma.
If it's karma, get really drunk and bark at the moon, then wake up and start over.
Good luck.
The way this post started, it sounded like you had some kind of newly discovered exhaust blockage. Now it just sounds like a simple problem that takes common sense to figger out.
Your plugs have to be in serviceable condition with proper gap. You have to open the airbox to see if there's a mouse nest or other blockage. You have to see the reeds to know whether they are serviceable. You have to check compression to know whether the engine is shot. You have to completely disassemble the carbs to clean the bowl & throat, & pilot & main circuits, & adjust the float bowl height & inspect the float needle and seat, & inspect the main needle & check the clip position, and be sure that pilot passages are not blocked and that tiny spring-washer-o-ring under pilot air screw hasn't been lost. You must be jetted and set up properly. Get expert recommendation for jets, then confirm that you have the proper main and pilot jet sizes, and that the needle clip is in the 2 or 3 position. Start with the air screws 1.5 turns out, tune from there. You can verify fuel pump operation by having a buddy crank the motor while you hold your finger over the fuel hose trying to block it. If fuel squirts past a tight "finger-cap", pump is good. You have to be sure there is spark. Pull plug, put cable on it, hold it 1/16" away from conductive surface of head, crank motor. See if a spark jumps across to the head. Don't do this with gas spilled everywhere. You have to be sure there's not a vac leak at the carbs or water pump shaft or other typical locations. Use starter fluid: get sled running, spray little bursts all around each carb. If it revs up suddenly, that's because it sucked starter fluid in through a vac leak. Do the same test at the water pump shaft seal and other possible leak aveneues. If you find a vac leak, fix it.
Your clutch has to be serviceable. This means good bushings in both clutches, good weights and rollers and pins and spring in primary with no wear dimples in the weight profiles, and good spring and buttons in the rear. Springs must be set in proper holes.
The problem you describe could be caused by bad pilot circuit, bad main circuit, bad float system, wrong float level, vac leak, bad plugs, blown motor, bad fuel pump, bad fuel, water in fuel, bad clutch, blocked air intake, or bad karma.
If it's karma, get really drunk and bark at the moon, then wake up and start over.
Good luck.
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baker
New member
I guess we were typing at the same time. You already checked half of what was in my post. Good luck with the other half. Hope its' not a bad vac leak.
Exciter570
Member
What clutching are you running?
baker
New member
Prim - 8CA 01 weights (stockers) with 10.3mm steel rivets in both holes, GoldPinkGold spring, stock diameter rollers.
Secon - stock spring set in both #3 holes (60° twist).
Elev = 4500 to 7000. Riding is 50/50 trails and powder.
If your sled will rev off the ground but not under load, it doesn't seem like a clutch problem to me unless your bushings are bad or rollers are obviously shot. It sounds more like a carb problem, from what you've said. I've noticed in the past that a sled that is really too rich or lean somewhere can act right on a stand and even on a trail but not under serious load like powder or climbing.
if you have a vac leak, that would cause the same prob - a sled that won't rev under load.
Secon - stock spring set in both #3 holes (60° twist).
Elev = 4500 to 7000. Riding is 50/50 trails and powder.
If your sled will rev off the ground but not under load, it doesn't seem like a clutch problem to me unless your bushings are bad or rollers are obviously shot. It sounds more like a carb problem, from what you've said. I've noticed in the past that a sled that is really too rich or lean somewhere can act right on a stand and even on a trail but not under serious load like powder or climbing.
if you have a vac leak, that would cause the same prob - a sled that won't rev under load.