12 V Power Supply on 02 Viper with no Battery

No problem, the GPSmap accepts voltage between 10 and 32, and I connected my 12v power outlet like this:
power (+) from blue/white cable running up to the meter (the cable that feeds the meter light)
ground (-) from black cable to the headlight
 
i would think that you would have a voltage drop when the sled idles. and it probably goes below 10vdc. resulting in the unit shutting off and restarting or more of a pain you might have to turn it back on everytime. i think if you installed a capacitor in line(basically a battery when you're voltage is up it would charge the cap and when you idle the cap would discharge. this is done on high poiwer amplifires in auto to eliminate the same problem.
 
blue missile said:
i would think that you would have a voltage drop when the sled idles. and it probably goes below 10vdc. resulting in the unit shutting off and restarting or more of a pain you might have to turn it back on everytime. i think if you installed a capacitor in line(basically a battery when you're voltage is up it would charge the cap and when you idle the cap would discharge. this is done on high poiwer amplifires in auto to eliminate the same problem.
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I have no problems on idle, there is at least 12v
 
I have the Ohlin EC on my Viper which has a constant voltage readout on it, it varies between low 12's and mid 13's, the voltage regulator in the sled works well...............
 
I've been told that sleds without batteries put out ( roughly ) 12 volts but its 12 volts AC, whereas a GPS requires 12volts DC. A rectifier is required to change from AC to DC. Is this not correct??, or do the Vipers come with a rectifier??
 
Its AC power but most of the accessories (lights, speedo, etc) SHOULD be DC, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm assuming this based on teh voltage readings I take on mine when I was troubleshooting some things last year.

Bennyj - Thanks for the 12V wire on the meter I'll need that!

800 - How expensive is it to get that Mono EC shock set up in a viper?
 
there is ac voltage coming out of the stator then it goes into the rectifier where it is converted to dc. Then it goes into either 1 or 2 condensors(big capacitor) and off to the rest of the system. the condensors are not used to bring up the voltage at idle ,but rather to smooth out the dirty electricity(rapid fluctuations in voltage)
 
Tombis said:
there is ac voltage coming out of the stator then it goes into the rectifier where it is converted to dc. Then it goes into either 1 or 2 condensors(big capacitor) and off to the rest of the system. the condensors are not used to bring up the voltage at idle ,but rather to smooth out the dirty electricity(rapid fluctuations in voltage)
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So are you saying that the Yamahas are rectified. It's not a problem on my Viper anyway, because that has electic start, but I want to run my GPS of my 01 800 MXZX. I've been told that the AC power is not rectified to DC. Is it correct as Kinger is saying that the lights are 12 volt DC? And how do I check? I have a multimeter. If I hook it up to the power to the light, and it reads aprox. 12 volts on the DC scale, am I save in assuming that it can't be AC. AC is alternating current which means that at any given time one wire can be either positive or negative. ( or so I'm told )
 
1badz said:
So are you saying that the Yamahas are rectified. It's not a problem on my Viper anyway, because that has electic start, but I want to run my GPS of my 01 800 MXZX. I've been told that the AC power is not rectified to DC. Is it correct as Kinger is saying that the lights are 12 volt DC? And how do I check? I have a multimeter. If I hook it up to the power to the light, and it reads aprox. 12 volts on the DC scale, am I save in assuming that it can't be AC. AC is alternating current which means that at any given time one wire can be either positive or negative. ( or so I'm told )
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Anyone??
 
1badz said:
Anyone??
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If you set your multimeter to DC and you don't get a stable value then it's probably AC...

If the DC reading changes from + to - when switching the probes then it's definitely DC
 
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bennyj said:
If you set your multimeter to DC and you don't get a stable value then it's probably AC...

If the DC reading changes from + to - when switching the probes then it's definitely DC
Click to expand...

Thanks. Appreciate the info; I'll check it out.
 
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