500' Grass Drag Set-up

O's srx

O's srx

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Jan 31, 2004
Messages
38
Age
44
Location
Cobourg, Ontario
I'm lookin for some help on setting up my 01 SRX for grass drag racing on a 500ft track. Clutching and Suspension
I was at a race this past weekend, and to be competitive with the F7's and other srx's I'd need to run in the 5.7's or low 5.8's for ET's.
My set up of: heel clickers with the 1.2g set scew in the heel, and 5.3g in the tip, red primary spring, 47-39 helix, green secondary spring w/ 50' preload, 20/40 gearing, with the 8dn belt, was giving me a shift RPM of 8400, with 192 studs in the stock yokohama track and my times were in the 6.2's. My RT's were mid .5's to .46's (.4 tree)
The jetting I had was spot on, 137.5 & 55
I was running in the stock division and would like to stay in it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (as I hate being beat out :x )
P.S. rider weight is 145 lbs.
 

Allen Ulmer/srxspec can give you a heck of a setup with the HC's for the SRX... Send him a PM... he should be able to help you out...

I remember running a 5.80 with the setup he gave me on my srx when it was "a Stocker"... :lol:


--Buster696--
 
Testing, testing and more testing in the future

I'll try the HC set-up first since I spent the cash to get them, once I get a reply from my pm, but then I'll try your set-up to see which one works the best, yammiegod3:16, thanx.

Any more suggestions from any one, will also be a great help.
:rockon: :rockon:
 
RE:

I WILL BE VERY INTRESTRED TO SEE YOUR RESULTS. PLEASE POST THEM WHEN YOUR DONE TESTING. ALSO HAVE YOUR JETTING AND GEARING SET ACCORDINGLY WITH THIS SET-UP. !! 3:16
 
O's srx.........I replied to you in PM. Nothing will touch the heel clicker setup no matter what anyone says! The only thing that will beat it is the guys who race pro on F7's. It will beat everything else though!!

Edit: I accidentally posted under our race associations account!

Allen Ulmer
aka SRXSPEC
 
Thanx for all the input, I will definately try every set-up I recieve, as those F7's need to be put in their place! :D:DP
:rockon: :yam:
 
8bu-00 is a damned good set-up, it's pretty fool proof, nomatter what track you are running on I've never had 8bu's let me down, uphill down hill, clay start, grass start, 500' clay even, the 8bu's work well
 
8bu's dont' work bad, but go with the heel clickers. They're the fastest by a tenth of a second over any other setup out there. Trust me I tried them all. Plus the heel clickers are completely adjustable so you can adjust to the track conditions & day perfectly! :rockon:
 
RE:

I GOT ONE YOU CAN TRY WITH THE 8BU-00.
RUN 53/45 HELIX @ 70 DEGREE
SILVER CODE SECONDARY SPRING ( stock v max 4 800)
GREEN/WHITE/GREEN YAMAHA PRIMARY. (add shim for engagement if too low)
gearing depends on distance. !! 3:16 (tony)
 
the clickers are an awesome weight if you are into it and know how to tune them, but for the amateur, an 8bu-00 is about the best thing out there.
 
RE:

I GUESS IT ALL DEPENDS HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO CHASE YOUR TAIL!! I SAW HEEL CLICKER SET-UP IN PIPED VIPER LAST WINTER ON ICE THAT LOOKED VERY GOOD, BUT I WOULD NOT BE AFRAID TO RACE HIM WITH MY 8BU-00 SET-UP IN MY SRX. HEY WHATEVER WORKS FOR YA !! 3:16 (tony)
 
I just finally had the time and space to test out the two set-ups, when I checked my W-arm and it was cracked. (only after reading the post on the W-arm breaking, I checked it). So any one waiting to see how each of the set-ups run in my sled will have to wait a little longer as I need to weld and beef-up my W-arm.
Anyone know where I should weld the extra metal on to it? (As I don't want to run into this problem again for a long time).
 
When reinforcing the w-arm, add a plate or some kind of support in the angles between the cross bar and up-right posts. I've noticed most breaks begin at the factory welds in these areas. Also check the "ears" that mounts the bottom of the w-arm. I've noticed these breaking as well.
 
Here are my results from a race i was at on the weekend, the only problem was that the starting tree was not working, so every thing was done the old fashioned way, eye balled. :shock:

But any way, i got beat by a guy who normally runs in the high 5.7 or low 5.8 on a SRX, my skis were only about a couple of feet behind his skis, so i figured i ran in the mid 5.8's. I would have had a better time/race if i didn't ratchet at the start. (the F7's got beat out earlier) :na ;)!

i didn't use the 8bu set-up because in my testing, it ratcheted the track way too much and i would have had to tighten it up so far that i would have lost too much efficiency, and burned up the sliders. If ant one has any suggestions on how to prevent this, post a reply!!

so i went with the HC set-up, (only slightly modified from SRXSPECS suggestion) it didn't ratchet the track off the line (except for in the final heat), which really sucked.

the rest of my set-up was the same, stock yoko track w/192 trail studs, rear suspension backed off, limiter straps pulled up (prevent track ratcheting), front shocks/suspension left in stock form, (any one know how much can be gained from tying up the front shocks/springs?). Besides that everything else was stock, or the same set-up as I had before (don't have enough $$$ to get grass track w/chisels). Any other suggestions for the rear suspension would be apprecieted.

until i resolve the ratchet problem with the 8bu's i'm sticking with the HC's all the way!!
:rockon:
 
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