I'll be doing something different to the sled over the summer, studding etc.
I know that in order to stud with the 1 1/4 inch ripsaw, That I need to change the drivers etc. So one thought, since I have to pull the drive shaft anyway is to change over to a 7/8 or 1 inch track, stud it. avoid the driver and chaincase parts swap, pick up a bit more clearance in the tunnel as a measure of safety, and sell the ripsaw. We mostly trail ride. The ripsaw was awesome except for ice and road crossings, so studding will help for sure.
What do you think??
2datrl
I know that in order to stud with the 1 1/4 inch ripsaw, That I need to change the drivers etc. So one thought, since I have to pull the drive shaft anyway is to change over to a 7/8 or 1 inch track, stud it. avoid the driver and chaincase parts swap, pick up a bit more clearance in the tunnel as a measure of safety, and sell the ripsaw. We mostly trail ride. The ripsaw was awesome except for ice and road crossings, so studding will help for sure.
What do you think??
2datrl
n2oiroc
New member
you dont need to change the gearing. no matter what track you run you need to install tunnel and heat exchanger protectors if your studding, even if its a .750" lug. you might as well swap the drivers and keep the ripsaw. it will probably be cheaper to buy drivers for $50 than to get a different track. besides, you really want to give up all that traction and have a slower sled?
Max. performance sells a kit with everything including new gears for the chaincase to correct the speedo since the drivers have to be changed.
2datrl
2datrl
n2oiroc
New member
that kit will work but its a bit overpriced. you can pick up a set of used oem drivers for $50, buy 1" square aluminum tubing to use as tunnel protectors (works a lot better than stock ones!) for $15, heat exchanger protectors for $50-$60 and gears for $60 tops!