that skid is not going to slow you down much if set up right. the sled will only set 1in higher then stock.
things that will slow a sled down are:
track adjustment, side to side and tension.
to adjust the track correctly, go out on a lake or smooth trail. drive the sled and roll to a stop. get off sled and look up at your drivers, you want to make sure your track is centered on the drivers. some sleds with the track tension set so the rear wheels are centered are not centered on the drivers. this causes alot of drag.
as for tension, start with stock, back the bolts out a few more turns. then go out and hammer it. if it doesnt jump the track, back them out some more. keep doing this till the track will jump. then tighten up one turn and run the sled. keep tightening one turn at a time till you see speed fall off.
once you get the track adjusted for speed then check again for center on the drivers.
another thing that robs speed is deep keel skis. the deeper the keel the slower the sled in snow. ice of coarse doesnt matter.
alot of toe out will rob speed as well.
another thing to concider is stud length. a stud that is alot longer than the track lug will slow a sled down, especially on hard pack or ice. your wheels have to roll over each one of them. up and down. energy spent going up and down is not spent going forward. keep stud length to 1/4 or less for top speed. they dont penatrate as much but for speed thats not the point.
low winshields loose speed. my viper with the stock shield was 2mph faster than my shorty.
make sure your skid is really tight, a loose skid will walk side to side and throw off track alignment under load and could shove the track sideways. even a 1/4in is going to make the track bind on the drivers.
8bu weights will do nothing for top end. they are a drag weight, 8dn in any of three versions work good
belt width, clutch aligment, center to center are critical if your trying to get every speck of speed.
a good top speed is either luck or preperation. for some it is both.