R6 vs. R6S?

n2oiroc

n2oiroc

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Joined
Sep 5, 2004
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1,341
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45
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milwaukee, wi
so what is the difference between the r6 and r6s besides the s being $1,000 cheaper? im mostly interested in the performance aspects like power. thanks!
 
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New for 2006:

Key Features:
All-new, light, powerful and bristling with knowledge gained from years of racing, the YZF-R6 is the most advanced production motorcycle Yamaha—or anybody else—has ever built.
The YZF-R6 is the first production motorcycle with a fly-by-wire throttle system—for flawless response under all conditions.
Straight frame concept: developed from the Yamaha M1 GP machine, the YZF-R6’s steering head, swingarm pivot and rear axle all lie in a straight line—for unsurpassed handling—with an all-new inline four-cylinder engine designed for optimal layout and mass centralization.
Slipper-type back torque-limiting clutch greatly facilitates braking/downshifting from high speed.
Formula 1-style air management presents very small frontal area and excellent aerodynamics; new ram-air induction ducts cool, high-pressure air through the steering head for optimal combustion, more horsepower and enhanced engine cooling.
50th Anniversary Special Edition model celebrates Yamaha racing heritage with classic black and yellow livery and special badging.

Engine:
Compact, lightweight 67 x 42.5mm 599cc DOHC 16-valve liquid-cooled inline four-cylinder features titanium valves, 12.8:1 compression and compact combustion chambers.
YCCT—Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle—uses a powerful ECU and multiple sensors to provide perfect, smooth engine response and optimal power whenever the throttle is twisted, under all conditions.
Twin-injector fuel injection: shower-type injectors above each intake funnel help achieve optimum fuel atomization at high rpm.
Back torque-limiting slipper clutch greatly facilitates braking and downshifting from high speed. Close-ratio six-speed transmission delivers seamless power and maximum acceleration.
Despite the increased bore, piston and pin weight has been reduced for more power and less vibration; 1mm smaller main journals reduce friction while 1mm larger connecting rod journals increase performance.
Compact slant-block engine design uses widely triangulated gearbox shafts to make the GP-derived, straight frame concept work; optimum weight distribution and excellent handling are the result.
GP-style titanium muffler contributes to mass centralization, and contains EXUP, an O2 sensor and catalyzers for a broad powerband, spot-on injection and EU-3 emissions compliance.
Linerless, direct-plated ceramic-composite cylinder bores mean greater heat dissipation for consistent power delivery and reduced friction—also a narrow engine.
Cool magnesium valve and engine covers are light and stylish. Curved radiator with twin-ring cooling fans keeps everything cool.
Direct ignition coils, dual-electrode spark plugs and highoutput magneto deliver extremely accurate, reliable firing.

Chassis/Suspension:
All-new Deltabox aluminum frame incorporates GP thinking in terms of engine positioning and rigidity—welcome to the next level of 600 class handling.
MotoGP-style 52.5-percent front-wheel weight bias helps produce razor-sharp handling.
A new swingarm is 2.2 pounds lighter and pivots 20mm higher in the frame, for increased anti-squat effect and mid-corner stability. TZ-type chain adjusters ease rear tire changes.
Four-way adjustable (preload, high-/low-speed compression, and rebound damping) inverted fork with 41mm tubes increases freedom in setting up for street or track use; soak up the bumps and resist bottoming when braking.
Four-way adjustable (preload, high-/low-speed compression, and rebound damping) piggyback rear shock delivers exceptional rear wheel tracking and stability.
Dual 310mm front disc brakes use forged, one-piece radial-mount calipers and radial-pump front master cylinder with adjustable lever for astounding braking power and feel.
Removable CF die cast rear subframe is light and strong.
Super-light five-spoke 17-inch wheels are light and strong; the casting technique makes the rim section light, not to mention wickedly cool-looking.

Additional Features:
Quick-detach license plate holder and rear turnsignal mount makes prepping for track days or racing a snap.
Built-in lap timer is controlled by a right-handlebar switch.
Multi-function digital and analog instrumentation features: programmable shift light, digital speedometer, analog tachometer, dual tripmeters with miles-on-reserve function, odometer, water temp gauge and lights for neutral, high beam, low fuel and turn signals.
Standard toolkit located in convenient storage compartment under passenger seat.
 
r6

It turns 16250 and makes peak power at 14500. Yamaha will buy them back because of the false advertising. ;):D
 
richierich said:
the new r6 is killer.by far the best looks ever for yamaha.so your thinking about a bike ? what type of riding you going to do?
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yep getting a bike for sure. i will be mostly just beating around, want something fast and good looking! im still not totally sure about 600 vs. 1000. i really like to have something scary fast, but if a 600 is close to a 1000 0-80mph then i would prefer the cheaper insurance and inital price of a 600. everyone says 1000's are way too much bike for a beginner (which i kind of am) but most people also say a 600cc sled is pleanty fast (booring!) decisions, decisions.....
 
the 600 is fast but not as fun as the 1000 in town or slower speeds because of the higher rev motor.just like my 05 r1 isnt as fun as the old 99 i had.gotta get the revs up to 6000 before it really gets going.its just nicer to have the bottom end of the 1000 motor i think.no down shifting to get you going.i actaully geared mine down one tooth because it felt to doggy.seemed like you were in 1 or 2 gears up compared to the old motor.you can get a 04-05 r1 for $7000 up or even a older one for less but the 04 is when they started using the new 180 h.p motor.plus the handling is way way better.

the 600 is fast enough but like anything you'll always want more and its only in your wrist that controls the speed.the new r1's are predictable and wont do anything bad unless you want it to.if you can ride both and see what you like the best.i doubt they will have any new r6 for demo but you can ride the old style one i'm sure.

we rode on fri. ( 4 r1's ) and after not riding my r1 this year. ( rode the warrior) it was a big change felt like i was 10 feet in the air but after 5 min. and a wheelie it came back to me why i like the bike.just try acouple bikes out and see what you like the best for your riding.the r6,r1 arent the most comfortable for distance but for screwing around they are a blast.
 
richierich said:
the 600 is fast but not as fun as the 1000 in town or slower speeds because of the higher rev motor.just like my 05 r1 isnt as fun as the old 99 i had.gotta get the revs up to 6000 before it really gets going.its just nicer to have the bottom end of the 1000 motor i think.no down shifting to get you going.i actaully geared mine down one tooth because it felt to doggy.seemed like you were in 1 or 2 gears up compared to the old motor.you can get a 04-05 r1 for $7000 up or even a older one for less but the 04 is when they started using the new 180 h.p motor.plus the handling is way way better.

the 600 is fast enough but like anything you'll always want more and its only in your wrist that controls the speed.the new r1's are predictable and wont do anything bad unless you want it to.if you can ride both and see what you like the best.i doubt they will have any new r6 for demo but you can ride the old style one i'm sure.

we rode on fri. ( 4 r1's ) and after not riding my r1 this year. ( rode the warrior) it was a big change felt like i was 10 feet in the air but after 5 min. and a wheelie it came back to me why i like the bike.just try acouple bikes out and see what you like the best for your riding.the r6,r1 arent the most comfortable for distance but for screwing around they are a blast.
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i think you summed it up good. i can control myself until i become familiar with it. im not looking to go corner burning too much, im sure i wont use all of what any sport bike is capable of in the twisties, i mostly love acceleration. as long as insurance isnt too crazy ill try to get a big bike. honestly the only thing i ever rode or drove that was close to scary fast was a big bore zrt 800 (supposedly 200hp) on grass. i think people totally exaggerate power. when the 97 porche 911 tt came out it was the fastest production car 0-60. i was all hyped up in motor trend as a huge rush. at my old work i had a customer leave one for a week and he said go beat on it! well i did and it was quick, but not like people make it sound. same as my attak. is it quick? yes, but its not all that impressive. the bike needs to be faster than my sled! how do the big twins like the rc51 and tl1000r compare to the r1 and gsxr1000? hell, maybe ill get a busa!
 
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n2oiroc said:
i think you summed it up good. i can control myself until i become familiar with it. im not looking to go corner burning too much, im sure i wont use all of what any sport bike is capable of in the twisties, i mostly love acceleration. as long as insurance isnt too crazy ill try to get a big bike. honestly the only thing i ever rode or drove that was close to scary fast was a big bore zrt 800 (supposedly 200hp) on grass. i think people totally exaggerate power. when the 97 porche 911 tt came out it was the fastest production car 0-60. i was all hyped up in motor trend as a huge rush. at my old work i had a customer leave one for a week and he said go beat on it! well i did and it was quick, but not like people make it sound. same as my attak. is it quick? yes, but its not all that impressive. the bike needs to be faster than my sled! how do the big twins like the rc51 and tl1000r compare to the r1 and gsxr1000? hell, maybe ill get a busa!
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None of those are good first bikes. Find an older 600 ride it for a while, then get a big bike. The power of late model 4cyl literbikes is not exaggerated. With a pro rider they will all break into the high 9's ;):D
 
cacsrx1 said:
None of those are good first bikes. Find an older 600 ride it for a while, then get a big bike. The power of late model 4cyl literbikes is not exaggerated. With a pro rider they will all break into the high 9's ;):D
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what exactly happens on a 1000? will it do a backflip if i roll into the throttle hard? come on, it cant be that explosive and uncontrollable. it wouldnt exactly be my first time riding. i have spent some time on bikes before (boring, slow 86 interceptor lol!) and i do not want to have to upgrade in 3 months! the insurance guy will have the final say, but if i have my choice it will be at least a 750. im not planning on hopping on it and pinning it the first time. ill work my way up to it. as i said before, im numb to fast, so a stupid fast bike should be just about right. my "ultimate performance" sled doesnt really impress me too much and it should do 10's on asphalt. besides, richieriches opinions havent done me wrong before. i dont doubt the fact that the bikes are fast, i just have a hard time believing that only a pro with 10 years experience can handle one.
 
a rc51 or tl1000 are fun because of the torque but you'll get bored with the lack of power or until a 600 screams past you.busa's are tanks and no fun.and not to mention they are uglyyyyyyyyy :)

i guess you could see what the insurance is 1st and make a decision after that.either one wont be cheap with full coverage and if you have any boo boo's on your record.the new r1 is very tame below 6000.only place you might get hurt is going deep into a corner because it handles that good and gives you tons of convidence.but you'll be ok because they stick good.i would upgrade on tires depending on what comes on the bike you get.tires are cheap compared to skin and plastic.a buddy once was in the same boat.he wanted a bike but thought about a 600 for a starter bike.i talked him into bigger bike and he got a 1000 super hawk .he took it easy for acouple weeks and said how fast it was then acouple weeks later called an wanted to make it go faster.i'm not about top speed anymore.i like the pull and handing more now.not many places to spool it up and to much stuff to jump out.i took the r1 up to 130 on friday but it gets there like right now and then you just back it done to normal speed. ( some dork in a eclispe tuner thought his car was fast on the freeway) thats where the 1000 helps just roll on the gas in 6th gear and it pulls without thinking.if you want to look at bikes later in the week i can fly down.looks like it will be getting warmer again.
 
n2oiroc said:
what exactly happens on a 1000? will it do a backflip if i roll into the throttle hard? come on, it cant be that explosive and uncontrollable. it wouldnt exactly be my first time riding. i have spent some time on bikes before (boring, slow 86 interceptor lol!) and i do not want to have to upgrade in 3 months! the insurance guy will have the final say, but if i have my choice it will be at least a 750. im not planning on hopping on it and pinning it the first time. ill work my way up to it. as i said before, im numb to fast, so a stupid fast bike should be just about right. my "ultimate performance" sled doesnt really impress me too much and it should do 10's on asphalt. besides, richieriches opinions havent done me wrong before. i dont doubt the fact that the bikes are fast, i just have a hard time believing that only a pro with 10 years experience can handle one.
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Who said that only pros can handle one. I said pros can get them in the 9's. This topic has been covered a million times in bike forums, kinda like "how do I clutch my SRX" is in this forum. Do a little research before making a purchase. Also check with your insurance company. I am married, over 25, have a house, and have no violations. Progressive=3500/year. State Farm=250/year for full coverage. ;):D
 
cacsrx1 said:
Who said that only pros can handle one. I said pros can get them in the 9's. This topic has been covered a million times in bike forums, kinda like "how do I clutch my SRX" is in this forum. Do a little research before making a purchase. Also check with your insurance company. I am married, over 25, have a house, and have no violations. Progressive=3500/year. State Farm=250/year for full coverage. ;):D
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Progressive is rapists on bike insurance from what I've seen. They wanted $3K for full coverage on a '05 R6. State Farm only wanted $900/per year. It's still $900 but I don't think that's too bad for a 19 year old kid. This is with me as a secondary driver and my dad as the primary driver. No speeding tickets for me, just a minor while driving. :o| Doesn't really matter now though, as the bike is sold! :o|
 
shortstop20 said:
Progressive is rapists on bike insurance from what I've seen. They wanted $3K for full coverage on a '05 R6. State Farm only wanted $900/per year. It's still $900 but I don't think that's too bad for a 19 year old kid. This is with me as a secondary driver and my dad as the primary driver. No speeding tickets for me, just a minor while driving. :o| Doesn't really matter now though, as the bike is sold! :o|
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U should have bought mine last year. :Moon:
 
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